苗族装饰图案的运用研究论文

黔东南苗族服饰不下200种，是我国和世界上苗族服饰种类最多、保存最好的区域，被称为“苗族服饰博物馆”。苗族服饰从总体来看，保持着中国民间的织、绣、挑、染的传统工艺技法，往往在运用一种主要的工艺手法的同时，穿插使用其他的工艺手法，或者挑中带绣，或者染中带绣，或者织绣结合，从而使这些服饰图案花团锦簇，溢彩流光，显示出鲜明的民族艺术特色。从内容上看，服饰图案大多取材于日常生活中各种活生生的物象，有表意和识别族类、支系及语言的重要作用，这些形象记录被专家学者称为“穿在身上的史诗”。从造型上 看，采用中国传统的线描式或近乎线描式的、以单线为纹样轮廓的造型手法。从制作技艺看，服饰发展史上的五种形制，即编制型、织制型、缝制型、拼合型和剪裁型，在黔东南苗族服饰中均有范例，历史层级关系清晰，堪称服饰制作史陈列馆。从用色上看，她们善于选用多种强烈的对比色彩，努力追求颜色的浓郁和厚重的艳丽感，一般均为红、黑、白、黄、蓝五种。从构图上看，它并不强调突出主题，只注重适应服装的整体感的要求。从形式上看，分为盛装和便装。盛装，为节日礼宾和婚嫁时穿着的服装，繁复华丽，集中体现苗族服饰的艺术水平。便装，样式比盛装样式素静、简洁，用料少，费工少，供日常穿着之用。除盛装与便装之分外，苗族服饰还有年龄和地区差别。 苗族主要分布在中国西南地区。苗族有悠久的历史，远古时，其先民居住在黄河流域以南，长江流域以北的广大地区。后迁入西南地区。 苗族以农业为主，以狩猎为辅。距今6 千多年前，便已懂得了"饭菜过煮，得肉便烧"的饮食方法。由于地域广大，自然条件不同，饮食习惯也有差别。苗民多以大米为主食，玉米、红薯、小麦等为辅，杂以养麦、大麦、燕麦、高粱等。嗜酸辣咸．好烟酒茶。饲养家禽家畜，种植各种蔬菜。 苗家饮食独特的民族风俗是喜食酸味，以酸汤最为著名。酸味食品主要有酸汤、酸菜、腌酸鱼、牛肉酸、猪肉酸、酸辣子、酸萝卜、青菜酸、豆类酸等。 苗族吃酸菜的历史悠久，跟他们深居高山，缺少食盐有关，平时很难买到蔬菜和肉类，所以每家都备有酸坛，用以腌制各种酸味食品。在制作酸味食品上，苗家人有整套工艺和吃法。苗族几乎家家都有腌制食品的坛子，统称酸坛。 苗族居住的许多地区素有"鱼米之乡"的美誉，自古不少民族就以善种水稻著称，稻米是其主食。他们除了一般的蒸煮之外，还有许多不同的制作方法，如香竹饭、饵块、米线、米干、棕子、粑粑、炒米，等等。 苗族喜食野菜，如蕨菜、鱼腥草、马蹄菜、刺花菜、铁道木花、刺五加、水香菜、青苔等，多洗净凉拌吃。这些野菜有的既是菜也是药，食之苦涩，但却清凉、爽口、甘甜具有清热、解毒、消炎、消暑、化食等作用。 最为奇特的风味食品，莫过于吃竹蛆、蜂蛹、黄蚂蚁蛋、花蜘蛛、牛屎虫蛋、沙蛆等。黄蚂蚁生长在树上，身上约两厘米，腰细腹大，嘴巴里有两颗大牙，多在阔叶处做巢生息、繁殖。 苗族的烹饪方法较多，最常见的有煮、炖、蒸、炸、醮、烤、烧、烘、舂、生食、腌、炒等，其中又以烧、烤、舂、醮、生食、腌为特色。 烧，即将食物放入火中烧；烤，即将食物用竹、木棍串起，抹上佐料，在火上烘烤；舂，即把肉先切成小块，放在木炭上烘烤熟或在火里烧熟，再回上韭菜、薄荷 、生姜、盐、蒜等佐料。 苗家还擅于制做豆豉、豆腐、灌肠、面酱等。好吃火锅，每有佳品，必架起小锅，进蔬菜、肉、豆腐等，边涮边蘸辣椒盐水吃。 日常饮料以油茶最为普遍。把玉米、黄豆、蚕豆、红薯片、麦粉团、芝麻、糯米分别炒熟，用茶油炸一下，存放起来。客人到来，将各种炸品及盐、蒜、胡椒粉放入碗中，用沸茶水冲开。客人必须连喝4 碗。 喝茶时，如果客人不想喝了，就把一根筷子架在碗上即可，否则主人会一直请你喝下去。湘西苗族还特制有一种万花茶。用冬瓜、桔子、南瓜一类的瓜果雕成花、鸟、禽、鱼等形状，经过数道工序制成香、脆、甜的食物。饮用时，取几块放入杯中，冲入沸水。酸汤也是常见的饮料。 待客时，男女客人分开吃。长者先开杯，佳肴必先敬客。吃鸡时，鸡翅敬客人，鸡头归长者，鸡爪归小孩吃。一家之客也是全寨之客，各家争相宴请。用牛角盛酒敬客，是隆重的待客方式。遇到过苗年一类的盛大节日，主寨方家家户户都做迎客准备，将酒放到芦笙场或铜鼓坪上，把客人拥到寨里，由两人举牛角劝饮，鼓乐齐鸣，客人要一饮而尽。 苗族人普遍喜欢喝酒，常以酒解除疲劳，以酒示敬，以酒传情，饮酒为乐。苗家的酒主要有白酒、甜酒、刺梨酒、泡酒等。白酒即土酒，苗家人常饮，以大米、糯米、玉米、高粱等为原料酿制。泡酒则是在甜酒的基础上掺入适量清水或冷开水即可饮。刺梨酒是用蒸熟的刺梨干掺和适量的米饭，加入自制的酒曲拌匀后，入缸密封。半月后酒化，再用木甑蒸馏，可分别得到20度、30度和50度的刺梨酒。以糯米和刺梨酿制的刺梨酒为最佳，具有消食助气的功效。 "无酒不成礼"已是他们遵守的礼仪，酒是待客议事、婚丧嫁娶、起房建屋、逢年过节的必备品。在长期的历史发展和生活实践中，苗族人民形成了独具特色的酒文化。 苗家饮酒，多因时间、地点和对象的不同而有不同的称呼，如"拦路酒"、"进门酒"、"嫁别酒"、"迎客酒"、"送客酒"、"双杯酒"、"交杯酒"、"半路酒"、"转转酒"、"贺儿酒"、"平伙酒"、"酬劳酒"、"慰问酒"、"鸡血酒"、"陪葬酒"等等。苗族人还极为讲究待客的饮酒礼节，如主人向客人敬酒要敬两杯，谓"两条腿走路"，敬酒者双手端杯，按正、反方向敬两周，敬到最后一人时，双方交杯对饮；又如以牛角杯敬酒，客人如不喝完，则"杯"倒酒淌，使人不能不喝。

我国是一个多民族国家，各民族分布广泛，历史悠久，不同民族、不同时代的艺术元素蕴藏着的不同的审美情趣、审美理想、审美追求, 表现出不同的民族性格、民族心理和人们对自我实现的不同追求。在现代设计中，产品的本土化设计符合不同民族需要民族识别、民族认同的情感要求, 是民族特色表现出不同文化特征的客观反映。但是，历史上由于语言、交通等原因，各民族的文化间缺乏足够的沟通和了解，造成了各民族艺术元素在一定程度上的隔阂。新中国成立以后，尤其是改革开放以来，各民族之间的交流日益频繁。与此同时，人们开始在做产品包装的时候尽量突出地方民族特色，包装设计出来的产品则会更显内涵和文化底蕴,以此获取更大的市场效益,在国际市场上也显得更有竞争力。那么何为设计的苗族服饰图案元素？苗族服饰图案元素是一个名族的文化传统、审美的集中体现，提取这些民族元素的精华，并将这些文化精华运用在现代包装设计中，才能使现代包装焕发鲜活的生命力。民族文化是一个民族的风格习惯，文化特色。而包装中的民族特色则是民族文化在商品包装上及商品中的形象化、具体化，具有代表性，能够在文化心理上接近消费者，与消费者紧密沟通，这是包装设计富有成效的一个重要且不可忽视的因素之一。优秀的包装不仅具有自身的作用，而且还对消费具有影响力和推动力。苗族服饰图案元素是现代包装设计中具有独特艺术美丽的一种元素，充分发挥其优势，能够提升苗族服饰图案产品在国际竞争市场中的竞争优势，使我国的民族文化及产品得到广泛传播和发展。现代包装设计在融人苗族服饰图案独特的风土人情时，应以消 费对象的兴趣为前提，使包装产品具有实用性与艺术性的双重特性，从而有效引导消费者审美意识的提高。这是一个信息化高度发达的时代，各种科学技术的不断应用，对于现代平面包装设计的整体发展起着积极地推动作用。但是，西方一些文化元素的不断冲击，使得中国的苗族服饰图案艺术正面临着巨大的挑战。而作为现代平面包装的设计工作者，必须充分地运用自身丰富的想象力以及创新意识，使得中国的苗族服饰图案元素能够在现代平面包装设计中得到更好地体现。在现代平面包装设计中引入苗族服饰图案元素，无论是从商业角度还是艺术思想方面，都有一定的参考意义。设计过程中主动地加入中国苗族服饰图案元素，体现了一种审美情趣和审美价值。设计师通过引入中国苗族服饰图案元素，可以使自身的设计产品更加具有灵性，整体的价值也在不同程度上得到了一定地提高。

The innovative application of Miao embroidery in modern clothing design in Guizhou Province Summary:Guizhou Miao embroidery is one of the intangible cultural heritage in the world. It is a wonderful flower in the history of Chinese embroidery and has a unique artistic charm. Miao embroidery is a cultural product created by the people of Miao nationality who exert their wisdom and diligence in the life of nature. It is the carrier of Miao culture. The application of Miao embroidery innovation in Guizhou in modern clothing design is beneficial to the establishment of unique artistic style of modern clothing, the integration of traditional technology and modern design, and the inheritance and development of traditional words:Guizhou Miao Embroidery; modern clothing design; innovative application IntroductionMiao embroidery in Guizhou Province is wonderful, but with the development of the times, Miao embroidery skills gradually decline, is facing the challenge of metamorphosis and regeneration. Designers in the new era should shoulder the responsibility of inheriting and developing the Miao embroidery techniques. The Miao embroidery is a source of inspiration for modern fashion design because of its rich and varied shapes, colors and techniques[1].In the new era, how to apply the innovation of Guizhou Miao embroidery to modern clothing design, how to inherit and innovate, how to collide traditional techniques with modern design to create new sparks, and how to make Miao embroidery glow with new vitality, etc. , it is worthy of our deep thought and study. 1. Main characteristics and distribution of Miao embroidery in GuizhouMiao embroidery in Guizhou is very particular. Different needlework methods should be considered according to the expression of different objects and artistic effects. Some needlework, some needlework, some needlework, and some needlework involve thread winding, weaving and knotting each other. Guizhou Miao embroidery mainly flat embroidery, lock embroidery, braids embroidery, seed embroidery, plate embroidery, broken thread embroidery, tin embroidery and so on, embroidery design texture rich three-dimensional sense. There are many branches of Miao ethnic group in Guizhou, and different regions have different representative types of embroidery: the most common flat embroidery, mainly distributed in southeast Guizhou Taijiang, Shidong, Rongjiang and Danzhai County. Flat embroidery single needle single thread, pay attention to even and even stitch. CREPE and braid embroidery are mainly distributed in Xi River and Leishan. It is one of the most unique traditional embroideries. The craft is complicated, first the silk thread weaves the small plait, with the traditional pattern pastes the cloth as the bottom, the small plait sews on the pattern, each sews a stitch to fold, causes the small plait drape three-dimensional, like the relief. Dazi embroidery is mainly distributed in Taijiang, Dazi is to wire around a few times and then insert the base cloth to play a knot in one heart, a Zhang Sengyou effect. Broken thread embroidery, mainly distributed in Taijiang, is a very special embroidery method in flat embroidery. Broken thread embroidery divides ordinary silk thread into 8 to 12 strands of fine thread, and then uses fine threads to make flat embroidery. It is exquisite, exquisite and luxurious. It is a fine work in Miao embroidery. Tin Embroidery is distributed in Jianhe. The Intelligent Miao people cut tin foil into thread and embroider it on cloth. The geometric pattern is the most fashionable style of embroidery[2].Miao embroidery in Guizhou Province is rich and colorful, with distinctive features, which congeals the national spirit and historical and cultural connotation of Guizhou. 2. Development Status of Miao embroidery in Guizhou ProvinceWith the development of social economy, there are fewer and fewer young people learning embroidery skills[3].Miao embroidery process innovation and age is proportional to the younger generation of the Miao is the carrier of process inheritance, lack of innovation will lead to Miao embroidery culture and environmental adaptability[4].The lack of innovation ability has become a big problem in the development of Miao embroidery Guizhou has unique tourism resources. In recent years, the rapid development of Guizhou tourism industry has led to the development of tourism products, and the design of tourism products with Guizhou characteristics has become a hot spot, including the development of Guizhou Miao embroidery tourism products with Guizhou characteristics, for example has the Miao nationality embroidery clothing, the bag, the small ornament and so on. Since 2015, the international ethnic and folk cultural tourism products fair of Guizhou has been held, fully displaying the colorful and varied forms of Guizhou, displaying ingenious ethnic cultural products and unique ethnic cultures, to promote the protection, inheritance and scientific and reasonable industrial transformation of national folk arts and crafts, so as to promote Guizhou mass entrepreneurship and innovation, further enhance cultural self-confidence, and enhance the soft power of culture. The opening of the fair has brought a new opportunity for the innovation and development of Miao embroidery in Guizhou. 3. The application of Miao embroidery in costume design in Guizhou application of Miao embroidery in traditional dress in Guizhou ProvinceMiao embroidery is not bound by natural form, pay attention to emotional expression screen, rich in strong artistic appeal. Abstract methods are widely used in the modeling of Traditional Miao costumes. The image of virtual animals and plants of the Miao people in Guizhou Province means that in the long course of history, the Miao people have naturally transcended the process of imitating reality in the face of various external circumstances, the abstract form of the object in the Miao embroidery to provide a broad space for its the traditional costumes, the Miao people in Guizhou have rich and colorful embroidery colors and techniques, which are full of the unique artistic language of the Miao Culture. In traditional costumes, Miao embroidery uses unique embroidery techniques to decorate costumes, which are often decorated on the body, placket, collar, cuffs and Hem of traditional costumes, the texture effect in the decoration increases the layering, massiness and artistic sense of the dress. Women dress up, complex exquisite needle will focus on the collar, cuffs and other parts, highlighting the focus of clothing, and ensure the harmony and unity of clothing and accessories[5]. application of Miao embroidery in modern clothing designThe modern clothing design uses the Miao nationality traditional color matching method for reference, the decorative color mainly gives priority to the bright color, forms the intense contrast color. Highlight the decorative patterns of clothing, traditional Miao costumes into modern clothing. In the modern clothing design, the traditional national cultural elements are increasing, the unique style of Guizhou Miao embroidery has created the traditional significance modern fashion works in the international modern clothing design application[6].In 2009, the famous domestic designer Lin Xuefei designed the evening dress with the Miao nationality characteristic by the tin embroidery element, and displayed it at the European wedding dress conference, which caused a great sensation overseas. Miaos'clothing elements are widely used in modern fashion design in European and American fashion shows. Modern women underwear design is often used embroidery techniques, highlighting the Miao embroidery close to the heart, showing the feminine soft and sexy[7].