维吾尔族刺绣开发对策研究论文

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The innovative application of Miao embroidery in modern clothing design in Guizhou Province Summary:Guizhou Miao embroidery is one of the intangible cultural heritage in the world. It is a wonderful flower in the history of Chinese embroidery and has a unique artistic charm. Miao embroidery is a cultural product created by the people of Miao nationality who exert their wisdom and diligence in the life of nature. It is the carrier of Miao culture. The application of Miao embroidery innovation in Guizhou in modern clothing design is beneficial to the establishment of unique artistic style of modern clothing, the integration of traditional technology and modern design, and the inheritance and development of traditional technology.Key words:Guizhou Miao Embroidery; modern clothing design; innovative application IntroductionMiao embroidery in Guizhou Province is wonderful, but with the development of the times, Miao embroidery skills gradually decline, is facing the challenge of metamorphosis and regeneration. Designers in the new era should shoulder the responsibility of inheriting and developing the Miao embroidery techniques. The Miao embroidery is a source of inspiration for modern fashion design because of its rich and varied shapes, colors and techniques[1].In the new era, how to apply the innovation of Guizhou Miao embroidery to modern clothing design, how to inherit and innovate, how to collide traditional techniques with modern design to create new sparks, and how to make Miao embroidery glow with new vitality, etc. , it is worthy of our deep thought and study. 1. Main characteristics and distribution of Miao embroidery in GuizhouMiao embroidery in Guizhou is very particular. Different needlework methods should be considered according to the expression of different objects and artistic effects. Some needlework, some needlework, some needlework, and some needlework involve thread winding, weaving and knotting each other. Guizhou Miao embroidery mainly flat embroidery, lock embroidery, braids embroidery, seed embroidery, plate embroidery, broken thread embroidery, tin embroidery and so on, embroidery design texture rich three-dimensional sense. There are many branches of Miao ethnic group in Guizhou, and different regions have different representative types of embroidery: the most common flat embroidery, mainly distributed in southeast Guizhou Taijiang, Shidong, Rongjiang and Danzhai County. Flat embroidery single needle single thread, pay attention to even and even stitch. CREPE and braid embroidery are mainly distributed in Xi River and Leishan. It is one of the most unique traditional embroideries. The craft is complicated, first the silk thread weaves the small plait, with the traditional pattern pastes the cloth as the bottom, the small plait sews on the pattern, each sews a stitch to fold, causes the small plait drape three-dimensional, like the relief. Dazi embroidery is mainly distributed in Taijiang, Dazi is to wire around a few times and then insert the base cloth to play a knot in one heart, a Zhang Sengyou effect. Broken thread embroidery, mainly distributed in Taijiang, is a very special embroidery method in flat embroidery. Broken thread embroidery divides ordinary silk thread into 8 to 12 strands of fine thread, and then uses fine threads to make flat embroidery. It is exquisite, exquisite and luxurious. It is a fine work in Miao embroidery. Tin Embroidery is distributed in Jianhe. The Intelligent Miao people cut tin foil into thread and embroider it on cloth. The geometric pattern is the most fashionable style of embroidery[2].Miao embroidery in Guizhou Province is rich and colorful, with distinctive features, which congeals the national spirit and historical and cultural connotation of Guizhou. 2. Development Status of Miao embroidery in Guizhou ProvinceWith the development of social economy, there are fewer and fewer young people learning embroidery skills[3].Miao embroidery process innovation and age is proportional to the younger generation of the Miao is the carrier of process inheritance, lack of innovation will lead to Miao embroidery culture and environmental adaptability[4].The lack of innovation ability has become a big problem in the development of Miao embroidery technology.Colorful Guizhou has unique tourism resources. In recent years, the rapid development of Guizhou tourism industry has led to the development of tourism products, and the design of tourism products with Guizhou characteristics has become a hot spot, including the development of Guizhou Miao embroidery tourism products with Guizhou characteristics, for example has the Miao nationality embroidery clothing, the bag, the small ornament and so on. Since 2015, the international ethnic and folk cultural tourism products fair of Guizhou has been held, fully displaying the colorful and varied forms of Guizhou, displaying ingenious ethnic cultural products and unique ethnic cultures, to promote the protection, inheritance and scientific and reasonable industrial transformation of national folk arts and crafts, so as to promote Guizhou mass entrepreneurship and innovation, further enhance cultural self-confidence, and enhance the soft power of culture. The opening of the fair has brought a new opportunity for the innovation and development of Miao embroidery in Guizhou. 3. The application of Miao embroidery in costume design in Guizhou Province3.1The application of Miao embroidery in traditional dress in Guizhou ProvinceMiao embroidery is not bound by natural form, pay attention to emotional expression screen, rich in strong artistic appeal. Abstract methods are widely used in the modeling of Traditional Miao costumes. The image of virtual animals and plants of the Miao people in Guizhou Province means that in the long course of history, the Miao people have naturally transcended the process of imitating reality in the face of various external circumstances, the abstract form of the object in the Miao embroidery to provide a broad space for its creation.In the traditional costumes, the Miao people in Guizhou have rich and colorful embroidery colors and techniques, which are full of the unique artistic language of the Miao Culture. In traditional costumes, Miao embroidery uses unique embroidery techniques to decorate costumes, which are often decorated on the body, placket, collar, cuffs and Hem of traditional costumes, the texture effect in the decoration increases the layering, massiness and artistic sense of the dress. Women dress up, complex exquisite needle will focus on the collar, cuffs and other parts, highlighting the focus of clothing, and ensure the harmony and unity of clothing and accessories[5].3.2The application of Miao embroidery in modern clothing designThe modern clothing design uses the Miao nationality traditional color matching method for reference, the decorative color mainly gives priority to the bright color, forms the intense contrast color. Highlight the decorative patterns of clothing, traditional Miao costumes into modern clothing. In the modern clothing design, the traditional national cultural elements are increasing, the unique style of Guizhou Miao embroidery has created the traditional significance modern fashion works in the international modern clothing design application[6].In 2009, the famous domestic designer Lin Xuefei designed the evening dress with the Miao nationality characteristic by the tin embroidery element, and displayed it at the European wedding dress conference, which caused a great sensation overseas. Miaos'clothing elements are widely used in modern fashion design in European and American fashion shows. Modern women underwear design is often used embroidery techniques, highlighting the Miao embroidery close to the heart, showing the feminine soft and sexy[7].

一提起刺绣，我们眼前就会浮现出这样的画面：深闺绣楼里，一张瑶琴伏案而卧，旁边摆放着一摞摞整齐的书籍。绣架前，坐着一个乌发堆云，芙蓉为面，秋水为眸，冰肌玉骨，美丽绝伦的少女，纤纤玉指拈花针，在绣绷上一针一线地绣着，针线无声地在空中划出优美的弧线。绣架上摆放着针线盒，五彩的锦丝线下，隐约可见一幅未完工的鸳鸯戏水图，鸳鸯并颈，相依相偎，缠绵至极。虽末完工，却可见少女巧夺天工的绣技，那对恩爱鸳鸯已是活灵活现，好似从白绢上飞出一般。葱白般的指尖下，拨动着她的梦幻，在那有着万千遐思的脸上，绽开比牡丹还要娇艳的笑容，将憧憬的眼眸衬托得闪亮，眸光清幽如潭。在旧时，女子大门不出二门不迈，在那诉不尽女儿心事的绣楼里，度过她们的锦绣年华，只能将所有的情爱和梦想都放在针线上，一针情来一线爱，绣出她们的柔情似水长。我们最初感受到刺绣之美妙，还是在1982年，那是一个充满着美好记忆的暑期。那个暑期里，我们旅行到广西龙胜的一个瑶寨，寨中居住的瑶族是红瑶，女人们身着黑色上衣，上面绣满了品红色的数纱挑花，下面配上黑色的百褶裙，她们婀娜妩媚的身影摇曳在青山碧水之间，尤为动人。在寨中，我们常常会看到有女孩邮帜米判】樾迤���男逯谱牛��谴烤恍忝赖纳碛埃�钊丝闯铡V豢上В�鞘被故乔钛��奈颐牵�挥刑跫��饷览龅幕�嫔闳×舸妫�敝两袢栈毓似鹄矗�溆幸藕叮��惨廊皇悄敲疵览觥D切┕媚锩窃诶投�脱�爸�嗨媸碧统稣胂咝迳霞刚氲男迤��褪撬�亲约何蠢吹男履锛抟隆?在“男耕女织”的古老习俗中，“刻丝绣线，固是女红”一直沿袭着，但随着社会的发展，机械化的普及，手工纺纱织布、剪花刺绣这些“女红”技能已逐渐远离我们。记忆中，是在我们祖辈的笸箩里，看到各色的花丝线以及绣花用的花绷子，她们在跳动的烛光下一针一线，身影依稀。传统的她们，从小就学习和掌握了赖以生存的“女红”；我们的母亲，卷入20世纪中叶的滚滚洪流之中，上学堂、闹革命，红色的她们不会“女红”；新中国成立后出生的我们，从小穿的用的，都来自工厂，纺纱织布自然都已由机械完成，就连绣花都是机绣；而我们的下一代，都是“新新人类”，更是不会拿针弄线，怕是连“女红”这个概念更不知晓。刺绣的历史与发展。刺绣既是一门艺术，也是一门文化，它与我们中华民族的历史丝丝缕缕联系着。刺绣，是在织物上穿针引线构成图案色彩的手工艺术。中国的刺绣究竟源于哪个朝代，因刺绣作品不易保存，因此极难说清。我们现在所能见到最早的刺绣恐怕要算殷商和西周时代的了，从那个时期的出土文物来看，粘附在泥土上的丝织物，纹路和刺绣的花纹依稀可见。而刺绣的起源却有着一个美丽的传说。古时，在江南地区有着“断发文身”的习俗。文身就是在身上刺出图案。《说苑疏证》中记载：“蛟龙又与我争焉，是以剪发文乌，灿然成章，以像龙子者，将避水神也。”因为吴越地处地势低下，常受到风雨水灾的侵害，龙在人们心目中是神物和崇拜的图腾。兴风作浪、上天入地更是神龙的作为，因此人们就以断发文乌的装束，以示龙的后代。直到今天，我们仍称自己为龙的传人。大禹治水后，从大禹至泰伯、仲雍，吴地的各个方面都发生了变化，但断发文身的习俗依然存在。泰伯死后，仲雍不忍后人还要承受身上刺刻图纹之苦，遂召集众人商议此事，被正在房内低头缝衣的小孙女听到。女孩认真揣摩起来，一不小心针扎手破，血色沾衣，这倒启发她想出了一个妙法，将文身的图纹在衣服上一针一线试做起来。为了更好地表现图纹，她用五彩染丝，按照自己辫子结构的方式绣制，埋头做了七天七夜，一件五彩缤纷的图纹衣服做好了。小女孩双手捧着衣服给祖父，仲雍展开这件衣服一看，五彩纷呈，光彩夺目，披在身上，那图纹比刺绘在身上要好看得多。仲雍便择一吉日，身穿这件衣服，召集大家，从今往后即可照此方法制作衣服，不必再文身了。在仲雍的倡导下，绣衣取代了文身。因小女孩的名字叫女红，后人为了纪念她，就把这种锦绣针刺的工艺操作称为“女红”。清乾隆《吴县志》文： “断发文身为吴中风俗之始，仲雍来而人知礼仪。”仲雍开创了从文身到衣饰的服饰变革。刺绣在中国经过较长时间的发展，说到刺绣，不能不说丝织的产生、发展和完善，丝织造就了刺绣的发展。春秋战国时期，农业比以前更为发达，男耕女织成了这一日寸期的重要经济特征，家家户户种植桑麻，从事纺织。从1972年，湖南长沙马王堆西汉墓出土的织锦来看，丝纺发展到西汉日寸已经达到了很高的水平。每根纱由4-5根丝线组成，而每根丝线又是由14-15根丝纤维组成，也就是说，每根纱竟是由54根丝纤维捻成。如此高的丝纺水平，推动着织、染、绣的发展。社会等级制度的强化和人类审美感的提高也是一个重要因素。《尚书注疏卷五益稷》记载：“帝(舜)曰：臣作朕股肱耳目。予欲左右有民，汝翼。予欲宣力四方，汝为。予欲观古人之象，日、月、星辰、山、龙、华虫(即绘)、宗彝、藻、火、粉米、黼黻，纬绣，以五彩彰施子五色，作服，汝明。”这是舜对禹说的一段话。也就是说，在舜时就创立了十二章衣裳服饰，即日、月、星辰、山、龙、华虫、宗彝、藻、火、粉米、黼黻十二章。所以，华夏民族的部族首领在举行重大庆典、祭祀等礼仪活动日寸，就穿着这身被后世称为“十二章服”的绣衣，并形成定制。这十二章的刺绣纹样，从原始的取意到后世的解释，虽略有不同，但总的象征意义是相似的。日为圆形，月为弦月，汉以后日、月都取圆形，而在圆中加饰鸟形为日，加饰蟾蜍或玉兔为月；星辰以北斗七星表示，以线相联，日、月、星辰代表光辉、光明照卜土也，在衣的肩上，有“天子肩挑日月”之称；山作山形，取其镇。取其人所仰，威镇四海，也有布散云雨，圣王泽沾下人之意；龙为五爪龙一对，贝被鳞甲，变化无方，像圣王应机布散也；华虫，彩羽野雉，身被五彩，取其华丽的纹样，像圣王体兼文明也；宗彝，宗庙祭器为虎尊，昂鼻倾尾，以刚猛制物，像圣王神武定乱也；藻，即丛生水草，逐水上下，像圣王随代而应也；火，为物体燃烧日寸所发的光和焰，取其明，像圣王至德日新也；粉米，粉若粟冰，米若聚米，人恃粉米以生，代表养育，像圣王物之所赖也；黼，如斧形，刃白身黑，取其断，代表神圣果断，像圣王临事能决也；黻，为相背两弓字形，颜色为半青半黑，代表洁净，有背恶向善之意，也像君臣可否相济也。这十二章服饰从产生以来，即含有一定的象征意义，是社会意识在服饰中的集中反映，同时也凸现了刺绣这门艺术在社会生活中的价值和地位。在春秋战国时期，刺绣工艺渐趋成熟，刺绣有经过夸张变形的龙、凤、虎等动物图案，有的则是间以花草或几何图形，虎踞龙盘，龙飞凤舞，刻画精妙，神情兼备；布局结构错落有致，穿插得体，用色丰富，对比和谐，整个画面富有韵律感。这些可从近百年来大量出土的文物中得到印证。进入汉代后，有着“齐郡世刺绣，恒女无不能”之说，刺绣工艺空前繁荣。1972年湖南长沙马王堆一号西汉墓出土的刺绣品最为突出，其中在此出土竹简中记载着三种刺绣的名称：“信期绣、乘云绣、长寿绣”。信期绣，因为绣了许多流云般的候鸟燕子而得名。据记载，当时信期绣的要价比黄金还贵；乘云绣，由流光溢彩的祥云及乘云而行的瑞兽构成；长寿绣，用多种彩色丝线绣出云彩、花蕾和叶办，由变形的鸟状纹和怪兽图纹组成，象征着长寿。这些绣品现珍藏在湖南省博物馆内。三国时，东吴孙权因军事需要，希望得到一个善于作画的人，可以把山川地势、行兵布阵之图画下来。丞相赵达将自己的妹妹赵夫人举荐给孙权，赵夫人极善绘画，巧思无双，还能在纤纤玉指间以彩丝织出云霞、龙蛇花纹的锦缎。于是，孙权就让她画出江湖、九州、山岳的地势图，而赵夫人则认为图画容易损毁：“丹青之色，甚易歇灭，不可久，妾能刺绣，作列国方帛之上，可以五岳、河海、城邑，行阵之形。”赵夫人精心绣制，不仅绣出了神州大地，山岳河流的自然景物，还标出了三国鼎立的城邑和军营阵列的势态，吴主孙权看后大悦。赵夫人的绣技之高超，被时人称为“针绝”。(《王子年拾遗记》)而在敦煌莫高窟，曾发现了北魏时期的刺绣佛像残片，可见当时刺绣已用于宗教用品。刺绣在唐宋时期获得了更大的发展，在唐代，服装刺绣也开始盛行。据《旧唐书·后妃传》载，“宫中供贵妃院织锦刺绣的工人多达700人”，刺绣入宫，连公主等都亲自参与。到了宋代，刺绣已渗透到生活的方方面面，遍及大江南北，而参与刺绣的对象也进一步扩大，加上文人们的积极参与，将书法和绘画艺术结合得更为紧密，使画绣结合的精品倍增。唐宋时期的刺绣之所以更为发展，还有一个主要原因，那就是由当时的社会环境所决定。在男耕女织的封建社会里，女孩子从小就要学习“女红”，都要掌握刺绣技能，所以，就连那些深宅大院的小姐们，也把刺绣当做她们消遣、养性和精神寄托的唯一活动。由于宋、元两代的刺绣受到我国北方女真族的影响，在服饰上用金成为一种时尚。在刺绣中加以金彩，使得绣品益见华丽。元朝建立后，江南的许多知识分子或招安为官或隐居庄园，逐渐在南方兴起地主文化，纯欣赏性刺绣流派以仿绣书画见长，与书法绘画艺术结合，与民间刺绣工艺分离。平绣类的针法处理技巧更为细腻化，并目不断创新。亦称“川绣”，是以四川成都为中心代表的刺绣艺术。蜀绣的历史也很悠久，据晋代常璩《华阳国志》中记载：当时蜀中的刺绣已十分闻名，并把蜀绣与蜀锦并列，视为蜀地名产。而蜀绣在清朝得到空前发展，除日常用的绣品外，还生产各种规格的欣赏品，如中堂、方斗、条幅等，题材广泛，内容丰富，包括山水人物，花草虫鱼，飞禽走兽等等。其画稿来源于名人佳作，为蜀绣的发展提供了艺术基础，并造就了一批各具专长的绣工。蜀绣的特点是结构简单，突出主题。其技艺特点是：用针工整、平齐光亮、丝路清晰、不加代笔，花纹边缘如同刀切一般的齐整，色彩鲜丽。其中蜀绣中晕针技法是蜀绣最具有的特色，它能表现出色彩的浓淡晕染效果。刺绣的形式、种类、题材很多，然而随着生活方式的改变，曾经是女孩子从小就要学习的“女红”刺绣日渐稀少，我们这些热爱民间艺术的人，有责任踏上“刺绣之旅”，去寻找那些即将消失的刺绣女红，让这块中华传统艺术宝库中的瑰宝，继续闪耀其熠熠的光辉。我是粘贴。