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[1] 熊秋菊. 一曲美丽而苍凉的哀歌——论《半生缘》的审美风格[J]. 沧桑, 2006,(02) . [2] 秦军,王旭. 论张爱玲小说中的悲剧人生[J]. 黑河学刊, 2006,(01) . 中国期刊全文数据库 共找到 7 条[1] 陈坤. 母爱的缺失——张爱玲小说世界的“审母”情结[J]. 北华大学学报(社会科学版), 2008,(04) . [2] 胡晓虹. 谈《半生缘》的自然主义色彩[J]. 福建商业高等专科学校学报, 2006,(04) . [3] 徐娜. 浅析《金锁记》中女性的命运[J]. 安徽文学(下半月), 2008,(05) . [4] 尹正纯. 张爱玲小说中男性人物形象分析[J]. 保山师专学报, 2008,(06) . [5] 张英. 浅析张爱玲读者接受心理特点[J]. 辽宁工业大学学报(社会科学版), 2008,(02) . [6] 闫云霄,马芳. 电影《半生缘》改编的遗憾[J]. 徐州教育学院学报, 2006,(04) . [7] 高园园. 谈《半生缘》的舞台表现手法[J]. 戏剧-中央戏剧学院学报, 2005,(03) . [1] 田春林. 悲欢半生缘苍凉一世情——读张爱玲《十八春》[J]. 青春男女生(少年作家), 2006,(06) . [2] 袁瑾. 永未言尽的苍凉故事——从《半生缘》品读张爱玲小说的悲剧意味[J]. 沙洋师范高等专科学校学报, 2002,(05) . [3] 林幸谦. 《半生缘》再解读:姐妹情谊的反动与女性冲突主题[J]. 海南师范学院学报(人文社会科学版), 2000,(01) . [4] 麦凤庄. 救赎与毁灭——以曼桢为例浅谈对《半生缘》的女性价值反思[J]. 贵州文史丛刊, 2006,(03) . [5] 邓筠!96(2)班. 回不去的《半生缘》──张爱玲小说阅读笔记[J]. 南京师范大学文学院学报, 2000,(01) . [6] 袁瑾. 悲剧人生 苍凉最美——从《半生缘》品读张爱玲小说的悲剧意味[J]. 天津大学学报(社会科学版), 2003,(03) . [7] 熊秋菊. 一曲美丽而苍凉的哀歌——论《半生缘》的审美风格[J]. 沧桑, 2006,(02) . [8] 王朝彦. 读张爱玲的《十八春》及《半生缘》[J]. 中南民族学院学报(人文社会科学版), 2001,(03) . [9] 胡晓虹. 谈《半生缘》的自然主义色彩[J]. 福建商业高等专科学校学报, 2006,(04) . [10] 张廷山. 评《半生缘》兼析张爱玲小说的审美特征[J]. 中共郑州市委党校学报, 2005,(02) .
试论张爱玲小说的语言特色(原创）[摘 要] 张爱玲在其小说中对凄凉的故事背景、氛围的营造，悲凉的人情关系的揭示和苍凉的人生感悟的描摹，形成了独具一格的审美和创作风格。本文探讨了张爱玲小说语言构成奇喻、奇景、奇彩、奇情方面的几个特点及其性格对小说产生重要影响的原因。[关键词] 张爱玲小说 苍凉 奇喻 语言特色张爱玲是中国现代文学史上一位独树一帜的、极富传奇色彩的作家，她被傅雷称为“我们文坛上最美的收获之一”。其小说的魅力，不只在于她以一支细致传神的笔精彩地描绘了殖民地香港和沦陷区上海独特的时代风情，也不只在于在她那个时代，她执着于自己的世界，抒写普通人的悲欢离合，而更多的在于她对人性的深刻洞察，对人生悲剧性的深刻认知，以及她在作品中所表现出的独特的悲剧美。张爱玲的小说不仅在人性方面有深刻入微的挖掘，表现“压抑的悲哀”相当出色，更令笔者惊叹的是她的语言特色，可称出神入化，有诸多令人叫绝的奇喻、奇景、奇彩、奇情。以一个年青女子的柔婉作此入木三分、冷艳逼人的刻划，她的观察之细致，笔力之张扬，语言之放恣，且不论作品是否在超级发挥上达到了大师水准，奇秀精当四字形容她无疑是相宜的。大致说来，张爱玲的小说语言在运用中构成奇喻、奇景、奇彩、奇情方面有以下几个特点：一、 用词新鲜、独特，好用“苍凉的手势”构成奇情奇景在中国现代小说的百花园中，张爱玲的小说堪称一绝。她的小说仿佛是一树的繁花异果，又似刚刚从人间的温厚情感里洗练出来的，词语新鲜而独特，令人爱不释手。(1) 意象对应营造故事氛围《金锁记》的开头说到三十年前的月亮，像朵云轩信笺上落了一滴泪，陈旧而迷糊，然后接着说三十年前的故事，使读者的想象回到梦一般的三十年前的时光里去，很有效果。好像一部影片的开头，以音响或画面来传达故事的气氛一样，真是不同凡响。(2) 对“凉”字的偏爱张爱玲的小说里，“凉”字用得特别多。如“苍凉的手势”、“悲凉的风”、“冰凉的感觉”等等。她的故事大都有着“苍凉”、“悲凉”的意味，读起来自有一种忧郁感，但并不沉重，是所谓一种淡淡的哀怨，一种很美、很舒服的感觉。张爱玲在《传奇再版前言》里写道：“有一天我们的文明，不论是升华还是浮华，都要成为过去。如果我最常用的字是荒凉，那是因为思想背景里有惘惘的威胁。”《倾城之恋》开头第二段是“胡琴咿咿呀呀拉着，在万盏灯的夜晚，拉过来又拉过去，说不尽的苍凉的故事——不问也罢！”结尾也是这样，一个“破落户”家的离婚女儿，被穷酸兄嫂的冷潮热讽撵出娘家，跟一个饱经世故、狡猾精刮的老留学生谈恋爱，是香港的陷落成全了这场旷世恋情。张爱玲用词新鲜、独特，一层一层刻划出了疲乏、厚倦、苟且、浑身小智小慧的柳原和白流苏。他们没有悲壮，只有苍凉。“悲壮是一种完成，而苍凉则是一种启示”。“从浅水湾饭店过去一截子路，空中飞跨着一座桥梁，桥那边是山，桥这边是一块灰砖砌成的墙壁，拦住了这边……柳原看着她道：这堵墙，不知为什么使我想起地老天荒那一类的话……有一天，我们的文明整个地毁掉了，什么都完了——烧完了，炸完了，坍完了，也许还剩下这堵墙。流苏，如果我们那时候再在这墙根底下遇见了……流苏，也许我会对你有一点真心。”好一个辽阔浩荡的境界！这是个被毁灭了的、虚伪的世界，所以流苏也只能“拥被坐着，听着那悲凉的风。”“在这不可理喻的世界里，谁知道什么是因，什么是果？谁知道呢？也许就因为要成全她，一个大都市倾覆了。成千上万的人死去，成千上万的人痛苦着，跟着是惊天动地的大改革……流苏并不觉得她在历史上的地位有什么微妙之处。她只是笑吟吟地站起身来，将蚊烟香盘踢到桌子底下去。”真是笑里藏刀，读来不由得从内心升起一股寒意，可满心的是欢喜。张爱玲的用词就是这样处处柔中带刚，绵里藏针，且又细水长流。张爱玲写流苏搬进新房子那段，“客厅里门窗上的油漆还没干，她用食指摸着试了一试。然后把那黏指头贴在墙上，一贴一个绿迹子。为什么不？这又不犯法！这是她的家！她笑了。索性在那蒲公英黄的粉墙上打了一个鲜明的绿手印。”这阴郁而强烈的感情，充满了悲凉的气氛，也处处缀上了张爱玲那飞扬的、任性的且勃勃生气的个性。张爱玲借她笔下的人物淋漓尽致地写出了一段中国历史，以及在历史长河中的一节乱世的情爱，一个经典的故事，带有些许落寞的、渴望毁灭旧事物的梦幻，我们分明看到了张爱玲自己在四十年代的上海和香港的乱世情结。正如胡兰成评张爱玲：“因为爱悦自己，她会穿上短衣长裤，古典的绣花的装束，走到街上去，无视于行人的注目，而自个儿陶醉于倾倒于她会在戏台上看到或从小说里读到，而以想像使之美化的一位公主，或者仅仅是丫环的一个俏丽的动作，有如她之为《借红灯》这美丽的字眼所感动，至于愿使自已变成就是这个美丽的字眼那样。这并不是自恋。自恋是伤感的，执著的，而她却是跋扈的。倘要比方，则基督在人群中走过，有一个声音说道：‘看哪，主人来了！’她的爱悦自己是和这相似的，诚如她文中的人物和语言。”《倾城之恋》里，人生成了警句。柳原说得不错：“死生契阔——执子之手，与子偕老”是一首悲哀的诗，世界是荒凉的，并且太沉重了，他的机智与风趣只是萤烛的微蓝的光，在黑暗中照亮自己。张爱玲就是喜欢用“苍凉”、“悲凉”、“荒凉”、“悲壮”这些词儿来形容人生。她深知家常的中国，懂得平凡生命的乐趣，咂摸到它的滋味，能亭受生活，也“在享用的瞬间领悟到生命的悲怆和不可理喻。”张爱玲在《自己的文章》里说：“我不喜欢壮烈。我是喜欢悲壮，更喜欢苍凉。壮烈只有力，没有美，似乎缺少人性。悲壮则如大红大绿的配色，是一种强烈的对照。但它的刺激性还是大于启发性。苍凉之所以有更深长的回味，就因为它像葱绿配桃红，是一种参差的对照。”张爱玲的贵族气与平民化的交融，是她的个性使然，她亦用这种独特新鲜的语言来阐释着她的爱恨，她似乎不革命的，但笔下却是人性的、有灵魂的小人物的家常生活，她的小说有血有肉，是冷静的，充满了智慧和逼人的冷艳。唯其如此，人性才有了永恒的韵味，有了一种家长里短的真实感。张爱玲的语言之所以有特别的魅力，是因为她能和珍奥斯汀一样地涉笔成趣，一样地笔中带刺，但是刮破她滑稽的表面，我们可以看出她的“大悲”——对于人生热情的荒谬与无聊的一种非个人的深刻悲哀。张爱玲一方面有乔叟式的能亭受人生乐趣的襟怀，可是在观察人生处境这方面，她的态度又是老练的，带有悲剧感的——这两种性质的混合，使得这位写“传奇”的年轻作家，成为中国当年文坛上独一无二的人物，我们也就不难理解她的“苍凉”了。二、 比喻的感觉化及暗示化张爱玲的小说有诸多令人叫绝的奇喻，处处显出精雕细刻，如同画出，无论是活力氤氲还是意趣蕴藉，都给人以意外的惊喜和不尽的回味。(1) 感觉化的比喻在描写战争来了，柳原和流苏逃难那一节里，作者写道：“流弹撕裂了空气，撕毁了神经。淡蓝的天幕被扯成一条条在寒风中簌簌飘动。风里同时飘着无数剪断了的神经的尖端，那炸弹轰天震地一声响，整个的世界黑了下来，像一只硕大无朋的箱子，拍地关上了盖，数不清的罗愁绮恨，全关在里面了。”张爱玲的比喻真是巧妙，就象一个冷静的旁观者，在参与导演一出绝妙的好戏，看戏和作戏的人，都沉静在大自然的音响效果中，画面辽阔、壮观、热闹，还有一种即将被毁灭的绝望与彻肤彻骨的巨痛，叫人感受着这份痛，根源却又无从说起，说不出。这就是张爱玲用奇喻的高明之处。张爱玲的小说世界里充满了自然景物的意象，她的比喻生动、形象，构成方式为外物感觉化。人生是舞台，个人逃不脱要扮演其中的某个角色。张爱玲却在这人生舞台导演着，如同解说，用笔娓娓动听地为我们介绍过去一场或正在进行的人生戏剧里的奇情奇景，她用自然景物衬托了人物的心灵空间，让人从中领悟出最悲怆的人生之谜。如“那口渴的太阳汩汩地做着海水，漱着、吐着，哗啦哗啦的响。人身上的水份全给它吸干了，人成了金色的枯叶子，轻飘飘的。流苏渐渐感到那奇异的眩晕与愉快……”张爱玲的论事论物，处处皆有这样的回春妙语，她的比喻奇妙、精当，令人回味无穷，可见其观察力之细致。张爱玲以这种心态观彼时的众生，无疑将是清醒而又冷静的，因而也能真实且富有历史感地为我们解读了一幕幕人生悲喜剧。(2) 暗示化的比喻在《金锁记》里，她写道：“她到了窗前，揭开了那边上缀有小绒球的墨绿洋式窗帘，季泽正在弄堂里往外走，长衫搭在臂上，晴天的风像一群白鸽子钻进他的纺绸裤褂里去，哪儿都钻到了，飘飘拍着翅子。”这是人物处于阴沉压抑的环境中，爱情终归破灭的情境。没有大段的铺张描写和渲染，文字经济动人，却将那种伤感表现得非常深入。这真是神来之笔，自然灵动。这种奇喻的效果比机智的议论更为出奇制胜，“金锁”锁住的不自由处境却偏以白鸽来作喻，且那么贴切、形象、突兀而自然、传神，仿佛信手拈来，这就令人不得不承认作家天才的存在了。凭张爱玲灵敏的头脑和对感觉快感的爱好，她小说里用喻及意象的丰富，在中国现代小说家中可以说是首屈一指的。钱钟书善用巧妙的譬喻，沈从文善写山水风景喻情，他们在用喻方面与张爱玲一样巧用心思，但他们的观察范围较为狭小。不似张爱玲用喻气势宏大。张爱玲的用喻表现为明显的暗示化。曹七巧用黄金锁住了爱情，结果却锁住了自己。爱情折磨了她一世和一家，她战败了，她是弱者。这种暗示化的比喻由于作者深切的怜悯，也唤起了读者的怜悯。张爱玲对人物的心理分析，并不采用冗长的独白或枯索繁琐的解剖，她利用暗示，把动作、言语、心理三者打成一片，“轻描淡写地呵出一片苍凉的气氛和风格。”两次叔嫂调情的场面，不仅是那种造型美显得动人，而且还综合着含蓄、细腻、朴素、强烈、抑止、大胆，这许多似乎相反的优点。例如童世舫与长安订婚以后这段描写：“空旷的绿草地上，许多人跑着，笑着，谈着，可是他们走的是寂寂的绮丽的回廊——走不完的寂寂的回廊。”这些暗示化的比喻，组合成了张爱玲小说语言的精华。张爱玲的奇喻在她的作品中俯拾皆是，触处生辉，一方面是观察的力，一方面是表现的力，因此大大丰富了她艺术的内涵和外延。如：“有人虽遇见怎样的东西亦水滴不入，有人却像丝棉蘸着了胭脂，即刻渗开得一塌糊涂。”“她觉得她这牺牲是一个美丽的，苍凉的手势……”这些比喻真是俏皮、冷静，张爱玲的奇喻在机智的方面有些近似钱钟书，但内藏的“美丽而苍凉”的意味、情状和个性却更加突出。这种暗示化的奇喻加描写浑然一体，有时候真达到了如夏志清先生所形容的程度：“诗和小说里最紧张最伟大的一刹那”。张爱玲就象一位出色的指挥家，把美的效果引向极至，谢幕了，观众还走不出被导入优美的旋律中那种感觉，令人痴迷，而陶醉其中。这真是大手笔，里面布满了智慧和陷井，而落入的人却是不忍舍去。《金锁记》中曹七巧自己爱情幻灭、心态扭曲，遂不惜将仇恨转嫁于儿女及其情爱、婚事上，力必坏之而后快。儿子长白成了她烟榻畔的牺牲品、驯服工具，女儿长安在婚事历劫万难可望成功之际，却不料她的母亲摆下“鸿门宴”，邀其男友来，以“轻描淡写”的口吻提到长安吸鸦片烟自小成瘾云云，令长安的男友童世舫听得由“吃了一惊”到“不由得变了色”。这一段的描写如：“长白突然手按着桌子站了起来。世舫回过头去，只见门口背着光立着一个小身材的老太太，脸看不清楚，穿一件青灰团龙宫织缎袍，双手捧着大红热水袋，身旁夹峙着两个高大的女仆。门外日色昏黄。楼梯上铺着湖绿花格子漆布地衣，一级一级上去，通入没有光的所在。”“突然按着桌子站了起来”，一句写尽家长制上长白们的懦弱以及七巧们的淫威。而一场用心不可思议的奸诈歹毒破坏后，写到女儿长安出场：“长安悄悄的走下楼来，玄色花绣鞋与白丝袜停留在日色昏黄的楼梯上，停了一会，又上去了，一级一级，走进没有光的所在。”这不仅仅在语气上一气呵成，有无懈可击的结构美，而且在悲剧的诗化上边，用心良苦，给人以余音袅袅的震荡与不尽的低徊。在中国现代小说的百花园中，把小说用喻写得华美而又悲哀，富丽而又苍凉，唯张爱玲了。三、 语言色彩鲜明、景色奇特张爱玲小说的语言色彩绚烂鲜明，景色奇特，如《倾城之恋》中讲流苏到旅馆去，写“整个的房间像暗黄的画框，镶着窗子里一幅大画，那澎湃的海涛，直溅到窗帘上，把帘子的边缘都染蓝了。”是写色彩极好的。在《金锁记》里，她写道；“天就快亮了。那扁扁的下弦月，低一点，低一点，像赤金的脸盆，沉了下去。天是森冷的蟹壳青，天底下黑��的只有些矮楼房，因此一望望得很远。地平线上的晓色，一层绿，一层黄，一层红，如同切开的西瓜——是太阳要上来了。”这段色彩的描写，更衬出了女主人公的阴郁、悲凉的心境。“外面是暖的，心里头是彻头彻尾的凉了。”“窗外还是那使人汗毛凛凛的反常的明月——漆黑的天上一个灼灼的小而白的太阳。屋里看得分明那玫瑰紫绣花椅披桌布，大红平金五凤齐飞的围屏，水红软缎对联，绣着盘花篆字……月光里，她的脚没有一点血色——青、绿、紫、冷去的尸身的颜色。”这种参差对照的色彩，有如一个西洋旅客的眼光观赏着这个古老的中国。这种以图案画的手法来表现的语言色彩，极富有创造性和结构美。抽象、冷艳、华丽。而图案的手法愈抽象，也愈能放恣地发挥她的才气，并且表现她对于美的颜色寄以宗教般的虔诚，更加凸显了她的个性化语言。张爱玲真是用颜色来表现象征的高手。她把感觉写绘成感情。她走进一切的生命里去，一切有情无情在她的作品里也“各正性命”，得到一个完全的安静。所以，她的文章是温暖的，她的色彩有庄严的华丽，也有悲哀，但不是惨痛的凄厉，所谓“众生有情”，对人间是有着广大的爱悦的。张爱玲的大俗大雅，大俗即大雅，大雅即大俗，她的色彩都是有生命的音符，已到了一个境界了。她对大红大绿演化出的一种张扬的美，有似中国式的西洋画，特别有引人的力量。读她的小说，滋味醇厚，像花雕的醇而香。所以她懂得葱绿配桃红，是一种参差的对照，她就是可以把色彩描绘得极漂亮的人。张爱玲的性格中聚集了一大堆矛盾，她是一个善于将艺术生活化，生活艺术化的享乐主义者，又是一个对人生充满悲剧感的人。新派小说家写人物的衣着色彩往往粗针大线，只求达意，一半因为不感兴趣，一半也因为不精通。张爱玲在这上面却是决不肯将就马虎，她得的是《红楼梦》的真传，力求细致准确，而她的服装和色彩搭配知识给了她本钱。她告诉苏青：对于她，一件考究的衣服就是一件考究的衣服；于她自己，是得用；于众人，是表示她的身份地位；对于她立意要吸引的人，是吸引。衣服和色彩对于她是小规模的创造，是尽情的游戏，是生活的艺术，是艺术的生活，于众人，那是她个性、气质、心境的流露，是她希望制造的效果。所以她用奇装异服为自己创造了一个贴身的环境，用大红大绿为生命搭配了力的延续。张爱玲在《“张看”——张爱玲自谈集》里写道：“对于色彩，音符，字眼，我极为敏感。当我弹奏钢琴时，我想象那八个音符有不同的个性，穿戴了鲜艳的衣帽携手舞蹈。我学写文章，爱用色彩浓厚，音韵铿锵的字眼，如‘珠灰’、‘黄昏’、‘婉如’，因此常犯了堆砌的毛病，却乐此不疲。直到现在，我仍然看《聊斋志异》与俗气的巴黎时装报告，便是为了这种有吸引力的字眼。”确实，张爱玲对生命充满了欢悦，是一种不同凡响的漂亮，她的小说语言也是如此。与张爱玲同时代的女作家苏青中肯地对她作了评价：“我读张爱玲的作品，觉得自有一种魅力，非急切地吞读下去不可。读下去像听凄幽的音乐，即使是片断也会感动起来。她的比喻是聪明而巧妙的，有的虽不懂，也觉得它是可爱的。它的鲜明色彩，又如一幅图画，对于颜色的渲染，就连最好的图画也赶不上，也许人间本无此颜色，而张女士真可以说是一个‘仙才’了，我最钦佩她，并不是瞎捧。”张爱玲的小说，给人以色彩斑澜的印象、生动不已的感触。她的语言是有情有味的文字组合，并且有一种现代的文明意识，带着三四十年代上海和香港的文化烙印以及人情世情，在絮絮道来的字里行间渗透着，举重若轻，有时，又似乎不经意地点出，皆成妙语。她满篇俏丽、机智、漂亮的语言，可以看出她身上民族的、民间的文化素质颇深。张爱玲自身及其文学语言的价值，正是表现了中华民族在一定历史时期的复杂的、苍凉的内涵。她用奇喻、奇景、奇彩、奇情构成这一切，好比她最爱用的词汇，“一个美丽而又苍凉的手势”，它给人一种回味，一种启发。张爱玲留给了我们融汇古今语言文化的良多历史旧影，我们无疑会从中获得一些深远的启迪。[参考文献][1] 张爱玲文集（第四卷）．安徽文艺出版社，1992．7．445．[2] 张爱玲．自己的文章．张爱玲文集（第四卷）．安徽文艺出版社，1992．7．173．[3] 向弓．贵族才女张爱玲．四川文艺出版社，1995．5．127．[4] 胡兰成．评张爱玲．向弓．贵族才女张爱玲．四川文艺出版社出版，1995．5．138．[5] 傅雷．论张爱玲的小说．张爱玲文集（第四卷）．安徽文艺出版社，1992．7．408．[6] 张叹凤．张爱玲的奇喻和“伟大的瞬间”．张爱玲文集（第四卷）．安徽文艺出版社，1992．7．283．
熊秋菊. 一曲美丽而苍凉的哀歌——论《半生缘》的审美风格[J]. 沧桑, 2006,(02) . 秦军,王旭. 论张爱玲小说中的悲剧人生[J]. 黑河学刊, 2006,(01) . 陈坤. 母爱的缺失——张爱玲小说世界的“审母”情结[J]. 北华大学学报(社会科学版), 2008,(04) . 胡晓虹. 谈《半生缘》的自然主义色彩[J]. 福建商业高等专科学校学报, 2006,(04) . 徐娜. 浅析《金锁记》中女性的命运[J]. 安徽文学(下半月), 2008,(05) . 尹正纯. 张爱玲小说中男性人物形象分析[J]. 保山师专学报, 2008,(06) . 张英. 浅析张爱玲读者接受心理特点[J]. 辽宁工业大学学报(社会科学版), 2008,(02) . 闫云霄,马芳. 电影《半生缘》改编的遗憾[J]. 徐州教育学院学报, 2006,(04) . 高园园. 谈《半生缘》的舞台表现手法[J]. 戏剧-中央戏剧学院学报, 2005,(03) .
历史意义~有些难啊张爱玲小说人物分析或某部作品的赏析较简单
基本都是有情爱的。只有一个是很极端的，曹七巧，金锁记里面的住人公。这个是一个很好的切入点和讨论重点。海内外，张的名声，一部分就是这个人物撑起来的。其他的还有本来有，又失去了的：茉莉香片里的聂传庆（男的）沉香屑：第一炉香里的葛薇龙沉香屑：第二炉香里的愫西散戏里的女主人公。（丧失了爱）同学少年都不贱里面的几个女人都又点不正常我想到的久这些了。张的文章里面缺失是少的
[1] 熊秋菊. 一曲美丽而苍凉的哀歌——论《半生缘》的审美风格[J]. 沧桑, 2006,(02) . [2] 秦军,王旭. 论张爱玲小说中的悲剧人生[J]. 黑河学刊, 2006,(01) . 中国期刊全文数据库 共找到 7 条[1] 陈坤. 母爱的缺失——张爱玲小说世界的“审母”情结[J]. 北华大学学报(社会科学版), 2008,(04) . [2] 胡晓虹. 谈《半生缘》的自然主义色彩[J]. 福建商业高等专科学校学报, 2006,(04) . [3] 徐娜. 浅析《金锁记》中女性的命运[J]. 安徽文学(下半月), 2008,(05) . [4] 尹正纯. 张爱玲小说中男性人物形象分析[J]. 保山师专学报, 2008,(06) . [5] 张英. 浅析张爱玲读者接受心理特点[J]. 辽宁工业大学学报(社会科学版), 2008,(02) . [6] 闫云霄,马芳. 电影《半生缘》改编的遗憾[J]. 徐州教育学院学报, 2006,(04) . [7] 高园园. 谈《半生缘》的舞台表现手法[J]. 戏剧-中央戏剧学院学报, 2005,(03) . [1] 田春林. 悲欢半生缘苍凉一世情——读张爱玲《十八春》[J]. 青春男女生(少年作家), 2006,(06) . [2] 袁瑾. 永未言尽的苍凉故事——从《半生缘》品读张爱玲小说的悲剧意味[J]. 沙洋师范高等专科学校学报, 2002,(05) . [3] 林幸谦. 《半生缘》再解读:姐妹情谊的反动与女性冲突主题[J]. 海南师范学院学报(人文社会科学版), 2000,(01) . [4] 麦凤庄. 救赎与毁灭——以曼桢为例浅谈对《半生缘》的女性价值反思[J]. 贵州文史丛刊, 2006,(03) . [5] 邓筠!96(2)班. 回不去的《半生缘》──张爱玲小说阅读笔记[J]. 南京师范大学文学院学报, 2000,(01) . [6] 袁瑾. 悲剧人生 苍凉最美——从《半生缘》品读张爱玲小说的悲剧意味[J]. 天津大学学报(社会科学版), 2003,(03) . [7] 熊秋菊. 一曲美丽而苍凉的哀歌——论《半生缘》的审美风格[J]. 沧桑, 2006,(02) . [8] 王朝彦. 读张爱玲的《十八春》及《半生缘》[J]. 中南民族学院学报(人文社会科学版), 2001,(03) . [9] 胡晓虹. 谈《半生缘》的自然主义色彩[J]. 福建商业高等专科学校学报, 2006,(04) . [10] 张廷山. 评《半生缘》兼析张爱玲小说的审美特征[J]. 中共郑州市委党校学报, 2005,(02) .
CLOTHING MARKET : The UK retail clothing market was worth $43 billion in 2000, having grown by just since 1999. Women’s, girls' and children's clothing account for the major share of the market, making up of the total value. The increase in working women might have been expected to cause an upsurge in demand for smart clothing, but a major feature of the market has been a trend towards dressing down. Men's tailors, such as Moss Bros Group and Austin Reed Group, have suffered from the demise of the formal suit, while the retail chain Ted Baker, which targets the 18-25 year old market, has embraced the trend and recently recorded a pre-tax profit margin almost four times that of the industry average. In the world of UK fashion, it is the ability to identify and respond immediately to trends that is all-important. Textile manufacturing is in serious decline and clothing retailers continue to find trading conditions difficult in the face of weak consumer demand and heavy discounting. Marks and Spencer, Arcadia Group, BhS Ltd, and Moss Bros Group are among the stores struggling to maintain their position. Meanwhile, the Dutch multiple chain C&A has admitted defeat and has now completely withdrawn from the British market. It is companies such as these, competing in the middle market, which are finding business so hard, since the market favors either value or premium brands. Those that are thriving include discount chains such as Matalan, Peacock's and Primark Stores, which are expanding rapidly and are predicted to increase their market share. With depressed demand and the prevalence of discounters, UK clothing retailing is expected to see modest growth in the near future. The market value is expected to reach $51 billion by 2005, an increase of 19% from 2000. MARKET OVERVIEW The main sectors in the market for clothing retailing are Outerwear, Underwear and Hosiery. Outerwear includes men's shirts, suits, jackets, smart trousers, coats, sweaters, T-shirts and jeans. Women's dresses, blouses and skirts also fall under this category. Underwear is made up of briefs and vests for men, womens lingerie - panties, corsetry, petticoats, teddies and camisoles. Hosiery covers men's, women's and children's socks, and women's pantyhose and stockings Expenditure on clothing, as well as having to compete with other durable and non-durable household goods, is threatened by increased expenditure on leisure, travel and financial services, including savings. Figures show that spending on clothing as a percentage of total household expenditure has dropped from percent in 1995 to percent in 2000. The popularity of heavy discounting stores is likely to be a factor in this decline. MARKET TRENDS A Diminishing Mid-Price Market The chain of C&A has been one of the casualties of an ongoing shrinking of the mid-price clothing market. Consumers are now tending towards the budget end of the market, which is targeted by companies such as Primark, Peacock's and Matalan, or the designer, premium-priced extreme. The mid-market has consequently become very competitive, with the struggles of Marks and Spencer, Arcadia Group and BhS to retain market share being well documented. Designer Outlets The first Designer Outlet centre opened in 1995. There are now several such centres that offer discounts of up to 50% on branded fashionwear, footwear, accessories, and housewares. Discount retailing is an important and growing part of several retail markets, and clothing is no exception. Gap, Tommy Hilfiger and Nike are among the names operating in these shopping `villages'. So called 'Off-Price' clothing is said to account for around 30% of the . clothing market. Although it is still a relatively immature part of the UK market, it is expected to grow rapidly as both established and new retailers (. Marks and Spencer and Matalan) plan to set up discount stores and enter the shopping villages. Informality Modern lifestyles, on the whole, have become much less formal, a trend reflected in clothing. While some places of work may maintain a strict dress code, they are fewer and further between — especially in the information technology industry. Many offices have a policy of `dress down Friday' where it is quite acceptable, indeed expected, to dress casually. This attitude extends into social life. Certainly some clubs and restaurants insist on a formal dress code, but many more think it unnecessary. A prime example of this movement toward informality is the huge resurgence in the denim market. UK sales of denim clothing in 2000 shot up by 8% on the previous year to reach $ billion. Sportswear Participation in sports has increased over the long term, and there is a high level of branding in sports clothes. A particular feature of the sports clothing sector is its acceptability as leisurewear, whether or not any participation in sport is intended. With the growing trend towards informality, the sportswear market is set to grow. This is evident on the UK High St with the entrance of . chains such as Footlocker. Brand Extension In the fiercely competitive UK retail market, the extension of an established brand name into other products has become common practice. This trend is becoming more popular in the clothing industry. For example, Oasis Stores PLC has developed an own-brand toiletries range, launched in October 1999. Meanwhile, designer Tommy Hilfiger has introduced new fragrances targeted at young adults. Other clothes chains with cosmetics, skincare or fragrance ranges include Ted Baker, French Connection Retail Ltd and Karen Millen Ltd. This kind of brand extension is continuing as more and more retailers are following the trend in an effort to compete with each other and offer their customers a complete product range. High street retailer H & M (Hennes and Mauritz) have recently launched a range of cosmetics and cosmetic accessories. Technology in Textiles Before the 1940s, clothes were made of wool, silk or cotton. The 1950s saw the introduction of synthetic fibres that would revolutionise the industry. Elastane microfibres, such as Lycra and Tactel, combine the qualities of stretch and control while being comfortable, durable and easy to care for. Manufacturers now claim to produce fabrics with other characteristics, such as anti-bacterial or moisturising properties, even cellulite-reducing hosiery. As a result of these changes in textile technology, prices are likely to increase, therefore assisting in growing the value of the market. Awareness of Fashion Marks and Spencer, BhS, and Mothercare have lost market share in the children's clothing market to Woolworths, ASDA Group Ltd and Next. Young people are becoming more fashion conscious at a younger age, and shun the somewhat conservative and old-fashioned image of traditional shops. This is in favour of those with a more trendy image, such as Gap, Next and Miss Selfridge. Similarly, older, and often affluent, consumers remain fashion conscious. The product offering for those older consumers wanting to appear in tune with fashion, has improved in recent years. Previously it was almost non-existent, especially at the cheaper end of the market. Larger Sizes Research has shown that British women are now taller, and more curvaceous, than in the past. This trend has been confirmed by bra manufacturer, Triumph, which has found that the average bra size has grown from a 34B to a 36C in less than a decade. Accordingly, Marks and Spencer, for one, is to use a UK size 14 (US size 10) rather than UK size 12 (US size 8) as its base model. Size 14 bust, waist and hip measurements have also been increased. With 62 percent of women in the UK wearing a UK size 14 (. size 10) or larger, there are undoubtedly opportunities for growth in the larger size clothing market. IMPORTS An estimated two-thirds of the value of the UK clothing market is imported, a percentage that is increasing as more countries with low-cost labour join the supply chain. Traditional sources, primarily Hong Kong and India, are now facing competition from countries such as Morocco and Romania. There is, however, some variation across the product sectors. Germany, Italy and Hong Kong are principal sources of women's, girls' and children's jackets. Men's suits and jackets come primarily from Italy and Portugal. Hong Kong is a significant source of imports of both men's and women's overcoats and raincoats, although in the case of men's coats, the Netherlands is the most important. Hong Kong is by far the most significant exporter of men and women's trousers to the UK, and of women's dresses and skirts. Many British companies are transferring production overseas. Much of the recent growth in value of imports into the UK can therefore be attributed to British companies, and their subsidiaries. The UK imported over $81 million worth of clothing from the . in 2000, a figure which has declined over the last few years. UK imports of . clothing goods 1997 $81,621,996 $81,139,559 $103,448,033 $121,300,429 EXPORTS Total clothing exports from the UK were $ billion in 1999 – a drop from the 1998 figure of $2 billion. In 2000, the UK exported $ million worth of clothing to the . There has been a recent trend towards exporting more British clothing to countries outside Europe, but less to countries within the European Union (EU). The UK has a reputation for quality in, for example, woollens and knitwear. However, it has been hard hit by the strength of sterling and the recent downturn in economies such as Japan, which are of great importance to UK trade. COMPETITION The Marketplace Vertical integration is a feature of the UK market for clothing. Companies such as Alexon Group, Laura Ashley, River Island Clothing Co., and Austin Reed Group manufacture collections for retail in their own stores. Place of Purchase In order of popularity, department stores, chain stores, independents, fashion multiples and sports shops are the most commonly used retail outlets for clothing. Age and sex are important determining factors in this however. For example, although department stores appeal to all age groups, fashion multiples are generally used by younger shoppers. For all the above outlets, penetration levels are higher among men than women except for independents and sports stores. Traditional mail order catalogues continue to come under pressure from discount stores. They cannot keep up with changes in prices, as their catalogues are printed weeks in advance of a season. The internet and digital television have introduced online shopping but there are hurdles to overcome if this kind of purchasing is to grow the clothing market considerably. Many consumers are hesitant to give credit card details and they like to be able to see and feel garments before they purchase. Brand recognition is important in online shopping, and it, therefore, seems likely that established High St stores may find it easier to make the step from 'brick to click' than a new online only retailer. Brand Awareness There is a high level of brand awareness in some sectors of the clothing industry. For example, the name Levi-Strauss & Co. is synonymous with jeans, like that of Nike with sports clothing. These brands will maintain sales due to firm establishment in their specific markets. However, with more and more discount stores introducing their own labels (. George at Asda, and Matalan), and the consumers decreasing clothing expenditure, mid market retailers will undoubtedly suffer. As mentioned previously, strong brand names are increasingly moving outside their original product. While this might ensure the success of, for example, Ted Baker skincare products, it also opens the clothing market for infiltration by outside brands. Market Leaders and their Brands The UK retail market for clothing is one spanning many extremes. Exclusive designer names are at one end of the scale, while discount stores and market stalls are at the other. In between is a variety of retailers aimed at the middle mass market. It is some of these that are currently finding survival so difficult. C&A is a prime example, but its demise obviously provides opportunities for other stores and products. This is not least because its withdrawal from the UK is freeing up valuable High Street sites. A relatively new entrant to the market is the grocery multiple, and the most successful example is ASDA Group Ltd. The UK's third largest supermarket, taken over by Wal-Mart Stores Incorporated last year, has its own George at ASDA brand of clothing (which had a turnover of $893m in 1999). Tesco PLC, the country's most successful supermarket chain, also devotes significant space to children's clothing, and women's and men's underwear. END USERS The total population of the UK is approximately 60 million, and is split roughly equally beween men and women. By age, the population is divided as follows: AGE % 0-19 20-49 49 + Over 83 percent of clothing and accessories are purchased by women over 25. Even 28 percent of menswear purchased in the UK is bought by women. According to the Family Expenditure survery (FES), average weekly household expenditure on commodities and services was $520 in 1999. On average, $32 of this was spent on clothing - this amounts to just over 6% of total expenditure. Although expenditure on clothing, both male and female, has grown in the past ten years, attitudes of consumers have changed. The proportion of spending on clothing that people regard as essential has declined. In 1989, conspicuous consumption was at its height and people were far more concerned with keeping up with the latest fashions. By the end of the recession in 1994, attitudes had changed and fashion had much less of a following - people still care about their appearance, but not to the same extent. This declining regard for fashion is apparent in all socio-economic groups. It is, however, more pronounced in the upper income brackets and the 25-34 and 35-44 age groups. Within these groups, people now view a holiday or products for the home as a priority over new/fashionable clothing. Despite the decline in regard for fashion, the desire to be fashionable still exists and is generally higher among teens, low income households, and the unemployed - hence the success of the discount retailers. MARKET ACCESS The UK clothing industry is an aggressively competitive marketplace, and is dominated by a handful of powerful chains. It has lower productivity than leading European competitors, and opportunities exist, therefore, for low-cost foreign competitors. The UK clothing market has to be instant in its response to changes in fashion in order for spending on clothing to compete with expenditure on other personal and household goods, leisure activities and savings. The market needs to accurately interpret trends so as to avoid surplus stock having to be sold cheaply. Rail upon rail of discounted clothes not only eats into any profit margin, but also damages the image of a shop, giving it a somewhat desperate look. There is one legal requirement regarding the labeling of textiles for clothing. The label must bear an accurate description of the fiber content. This is an obligatory marking requirement. Washing instructions and the size of garment are optional information, but must not be false or misleading. This would result in a breach of the UK Trade Descriptions Act. There are no requirements for a "Keep Away from Fire" label on any childrens daywear (but there is for all nightwear). However, there must be a flammability label on all babywear 0-3 months (day and night wear). This also applies to babywear with a chest size of 21 inches or less. There is no EU Directive on flammability labels on clothing. Clothing falls under the harmonized code of – and there is currently a maximum duty of payable. SALES PROSPECTS Clothing is an essential requisite, although consumers can also be tempted to purchase on impulse. Nowadays, few people have the necessary dressmaking and knitting skills to make their own clothing, so nearly all clothing is bought. Unusual garments and colour combinations, can differentiate one product offering from another and may be the determining factor in remaining competitive. The exit of C&A from UK retailing in 2001 has made prime High Street sites available for other chains and product offerings. In addition to this, the removal of tariffs and quotas protecting foreign markets (under the Multi Fibre Arrangement) in 2005, will increase opportunities for overseas companies. However, overseas competitors should be aware of the increased emphasis on design that differentiates British product makes it less vulnerable to cheaper foreign competition. Opportunties for . manufactured goods exist, as they are more likely to be able to compete with British designed product. Men's lifestyle magazines are helping to increase interest in men's and boys' fashion and men are more interested in fashion than they were ten years ago. Women are more financially dependent and able to spend as they like on their wardrobe, and as the proportion of working women increases, they are likely to require more clothes than they would if they stayed at home. However, as mentioned previously, the trend towards dressing down is increasing, therefore clothing purchased for the office will not necessarily include business suits. Home shopping through catalogues, the Internet, and interactive television means that goods, including clothing, can be bought at any time of the day, 7 days a week. However, people will always prefer to see the clothing and feel fabrics and textiles before purchasing so it is unlikely that home shopping will seriously threaten the High Street retailers. CONCLUSION The UK clothing market will see steady but modest growth over the next few years and is expected to reach $51. billion by 2005, an increase of 19% from 2000. Judging by current trends and evidence, it appears that the majority of this growth will come from the success of discount retailers. The diminishing mid market in fashion retailing means that best opportunities for . companies exist at this end of the scale. For more information on the UK Clothing Market, please contact: 瞎找的 看都没看
CLOTHING MARKET : The UK retail clothing market was worth $43 billion in 2000, having grown by just since 1999. Women’s, girls' and children's clothing account for the major share of the market, making up of the total value. The increase in working women might have been expected to cause an upsurge in demand for smart clothing, but a major feature of the market has been a trend towards dressing down. Men's tailors, such as Moss Bros Group and Austin Reed Group, have suffered from the demise of the formal suit, while the retail chain Ted Baker, which targets the 18-25 year old market, has embraced the trend and recently recorded a pre-tax profit margin almost four times that of the industry average. In the world of UK fashion, it is the ability to identify and respond immediately to trends that is all-important. Textile manufacturing is in serious decline and clothing retailers continue to find trading conditions difficult in the face of weak consumer demand and heavy discounting. Marks and Spencer, Arcadia Group, BhS Ltd, and Moss Bros Group are among the stores struggling to maintain their position. Meanwhile, the Dutch multiple chain C&A has admitted defeat and has now completely withdrawn from the British market. It is companies such as these, competing in the middle market, which are finding business so hard, since the market favors either value or premium brands. Those that are thriving include discount chains such as Matalan, Peacock's and Primark Stores, which are expanding rapidly and are predicted to increase their market share. With depressed demand and the prevalence of discounters, UK clothing retailing is expected to see modest growth in the near future. The market value is expected to reach $51 billion by 2005, an increase of 19% from 2000. MARKET OVERVIEW The main sectors in the market for clothing retailing are Outerwear, Underwear and Hosiery. Outerwear includes men's shirts, suits, jackets, smart trousers, coats, sweaters, T-shirts and jeans. Women's dresses, blouses and skirts also fall under this category. Underwear is made up of briefs and vests for men, womens lingerie - panties, corsetry, petticoats, teddies and camisoles. Hosiery covers men's, women's and children's socks, and women's pantyhose and stockings Expenditure on clothing, as well as having to compete with other durable and non-durable household goods, is threatened by increased expenditure on leisure, travel and financial services, including savings. Figures show that spending on clothing as a percentage of total household expenditure has dropped from percent in 1995 to percent in 2000. The popularity of heavy discounting stores is likely to be a factor in this decline. MARKET TRENDS A Diminishing Mid-Price Market The chain of C&A has been one of the casualties of an ongoing shrinking of the mid-price clothing market. Consumers are now tending towards the budget end of the market, which is targeted by companies such as Primark, Peacock's and Matalan, or the designer, premium-priced extreme. The mid-market has consequently become very competitive, with the struggles of Marks and Spencer, Arcadia Group and BhS to retain market share being well documented. Designer Outlets The first Designer Outlet centre opened in 1995. There are now several such centres that offer discounts of up to 50% on branded fashionwear, footwear, accessories, and housewares. Discount retailing is an important and growing part of several retail markets, and clothing is no exception. Gap, Tommy Hilfiger and Nike are among the names operating in these shopping `villages'. So called 'Off-Price' clothing is said to account for around 30% of the . clothing market. Although it is still a relatively immature part of the UK market, it is expected to grow rapidly as both established and new retailers (. Marks and Spencer and Matalan) plan to set up discount stores and enter the shopping villages. Informality Modern lifestyles, on the whole, have become much less formal, a trend reflected in clothing. While some places of work may maintain a strict dress code, they are fewer and further between — especially in the information technology industry. Many offices have a policy of `dress down Friday' where it is quite acceptable, indeed expected, to dress casually. This attitude extends into social life. Certainly some clubs and restaurants insist on a formal dress code, but many more think it unnecessary. A prime example of this movement toward informality is the huge resurgence in the denim market. UK sales of denim clothing in 2000 shot up by 8% on the previous year to reach $ billion. Sportswear Participation in sports has increased over the long term, and there is a high level of branding in sports clothes. A particular feature of the sports clothing sector is its acceptability as leisurewear, whether or not any participation in sport is intended. With the growing trend towards informality, the sportswear market is set to grow. This is evident on the UK High St with the entrance of . chains such as Footlocker. Brand Extension In the fiercely competitive UK retail market, the extension of an established brand name into other products has become common practice. This trend is becoming more popular in the clothing industry. For example, Oasis Stores PLC has developed an own-brand toiletries range, launched in October 1999. Meanwhile, designer Tommy Hilfiger has introduced new fragrances targeted at young adults. Other clothes chains with cosmetics, skincare or fragrance ranges include Ted Baker, French Connection Retail Ltd and Karen Millen Ltd. This kind of brand extension is continuing as more and more retailers are following the trend in an effort to compete with each other and offer their customers a complete product range. High street retailer H & M (Hennes and Mauritz) have recently launched a range of cosmetics and cosmetic accessories. Technology in Textiles Before the 1940s, clothes were made of wool, silk or cotton. The 1950s saw the introduction of synthetic fibres that would revolutionise the industry. Elastane microfibres, such as Lycra and Tactel, combine the qualities of stretch and control while being comfortable, durable and easy to care for. Manufacturers now claim to produce fabrics with other characteristics, such as anti-bacterial or moisturising properties, even cellulite-reducing hosiery. As a result of these changes in textile technology, prices are likely to increase, therefore assisting in growing the value of the market. Awareness of Fashion Marks and Spencer, BhS, and Mothercare have lost market share in the children's clothing market to Woolworths, ASDA Group Ltd and Next. Young people are becoming more fashion conscious at a younger age, and shun the somewhat conservative and old-fashioned image of traditional shops. This is in favour of those with a more trendy image, such as Gap, Next and Miss Selfridge. Similarly, older, and often affluent, consumers remain fashion conscious. The product offering for those older consumers wanting to appear in tune with fashion, has improved in recent years. Previously it was almost non-existent, especially at the cheaper end of the market. Larger Sizes Research has shown that British women are now taller, and more curvaceous, than in the past. This trend has been confirmed by bra manufacturer, Triumph, which has found that the average bra size has grown from a 34B to a 36C in less than a decade. Accordingly, Marks and Spencer, for one, is to use a UK size 14 (US size 10) rather than UK size 12 (US size 8) as its base model. Size 14 bust, waist and hip measurements have also been increased. With 62 percent of women in the UK wearing a UK size 14 (. size 10) or larger, there are undoubtedly opportunities for growth in the larger size clothing market. IMPORTS An estimated two-thirds of the value of the UK clothing market is imported, a percentage that is increasing as more countries with low-cost labour join the supply chain. Traditional sources, primarily Hong Kong and India, are now facing competition from countries such as Morocco and Romania. There is, however, some variation across the product sectors. Germany, Italy and Hong Kong are principal sources of women's, girls' and children's jackets. Men's suits and jackets come primarily from Italy and Portugal. Hong Kong is a significant source of imports of both men's and women's overcoats and raincoats, although in the case of men's coats, the Netherlands is the most important. Hong Kong is by far the most significant exporter of men and women's trousers to the UK, and of women's dresses and skirts. Many British companies are transferring production overseas. Much of the recent growth in value of imports into the UK can therefore be attributed to British companies, and their subsidiaries. The UK imported over $81 million worth of clothing from the . in 2000, a figure which has declined over the last few years. UK imports of . clothing goods 1997 $81,621,996 $81,139,559 $103,448,033 $121,300,429 EXPORTS Total clothing exports from the UK were $ billion in 1999 – a drop from the 1998 figure of $2 billion. In 2000, the UK exported $ million worth of clothing to the . There has been a recent trend towards exporting more British clothing to countries outside Europe, but less to countries within the European Union (EU). The UK has a reputation for quality in, for example, woollens and knitwear. However, it has been hard hit by the strength of sterling and the recent downturn in economies such as Japan, which are of great importance to UK trade. COMPETITION The Marketplace Vertical integration is a feature of the UK market for clothing. Companies such as Alexon Group, Laura Ashley, River Island Clothing Co., and Austin Reed Group manufacture collections for retail in their own stores. Place of Purchase In order of popularity, department stores, chain stores, independents, fashion multiples and sports shops are the most commonly used retail outlets for clothing. Age and sex are important determining factors in this however. For example, although department stores appeal to all age groups, fashion multiples are generally used by younger shoppers. For all the above outlets, penetration levels are higher among men than women except for independents and sports stores. Traditional mail order catalogues continue to come under pressure from discount stores. They cannot keep up with changes in prices, as their catalogues are printed weeks in advance of a season. The internet and digital television have introduced online shopping but there are hurdles to overcome if this kind of purchasing is to grow the clothing market considerably. Many consumers are hesitant to give credit card details and they like to be able to see and feel garments before they purchase. Brand recognition is important in online shopping, and it, therefore, seems likely that established High St stores may find it easier to make the step from 'brick to click' than a new online only retailer. Brand Awareness There is a high level of brand awareness in some sectors of the clothing industry. For example, the name Levi-Strauss & Co. is synonymous with jeans, like that of Nike with sports clothing. These brands will maintain sales due to firm establishment in their specific markets. However, with more and more discount stores introducing their own labels (. George at Asda, and Matalan), and the consumers decreasing clothing expenditure, mid market retailers will undoubtedly suffer. As mentioned previously, strong brand names are increasingly moving outside their original product. While this might ensure the success of, for example, Ted Baker skincare products, it also opens the clothing market for infiltration by outside brands. Market Leaders and their Brands The UK retail market for clothing is one spanning many extremes. Exclusive designer names are at one end of the scale, while discount stores and market stalls are at the other. In between is a variety of retailers aimed at the middle mass market. It is some of these that are currently finding survival so difficult. C&A is a prime example, but its demise obviously provides opportunities for other stores and products. This is not least because its withdrawal from the UK is freeing up valuable High Street sites. A relatively new entrant to the market is the grocery multiple, and the most successful example is ASDA Group Ltd. The UK's third largest supermarket, taken over by Wal-Mart Stores Incorporated last year, has its own George at ASDA brand of clothing (which had a turnover of $893m in 1999). Tesco PLC, the country's most successful supermarket chain, also devotes significant space to children's clothing, and women's and men's underwear. END USERS The total population of the UK is approximately 60 million, and is split roughly equally beween men and women. By age, the population is divided as follows: AGE % 0-19 20-49 49 + Over 83 percent of clothing and accessories are purchased by women over 25. Even 28 percent of menswear purchased in the UK is bought by women. According to the Family Expenditure survery (FES), average weekly household expenditure on commodities and services was $520 in 1999. On average, $32 of this was spent on clothing - this amounts to just over 6% of total expenditure. Although expenditure on clothing, both male and female, has grown in the past ten years, attitudes of consumers have changed. The proportion of spending on clothing that people regard as essential has declined. In 1989, conspicuous consumption was at its height and people were far more concerned with keeping up with the latest fashions. By the end of the recession in 1994, attitudes had changed and fashion had much less of a following - people still care about their appearance, but not to the same extent. This declining regard for fashion is apparent in all socio-economic groups. It is, however, more pronounced in the upper income brackets and the 25-34 and 35-44 age groups. Within these groups, people now view a holiday or products for the home as a priority over new/fashionable clothing. Despite the decline in regard for fashion, the desire to be fashionable still exists and is generally higher among teens, low income households, and the unemployed - hence the success of the discount retailers. MARKET ACCESS The UK clothing industry is an aggressively competitive marketplace, and is dominated by a handful of powerful chains. It has lower productivity than leading European competitors, and opportunities exist, therefore, for low-cost foreign competitors. The UK clothing market has to be instant in its response to changes in fashion in order for spending on clothing to compete with expenditure on other personal and household goods, leisure activities and savings. The market needs to accurately interpret trends so as to avoid surplus stock having to be sold cheaply. Rail upon rail of discounted clothes not only eats into any profit margin, but also damages the image of a shop, giving it a somewhat desperate look. There is one legal requirement regarding the labeling of textiles for clothing. The label must bear an accurate description of the fiber content. This is an obligatory marking requirement. Washing instructions and the size of garment are optional information, but must not be false or misleading. This would result in a breach of the UK Trade Descriptions Act. There are no requirements for a "Keep Away from Fire" label on any childrens daywear (but there is for all nightwear). However, there must be a flammability label on all babywear 0-3 months (day and night wear). This also applies to babywear with a chest size of 21 inches or less. There is no EU Directive on flammability labels on clothing. Clothing falls under the harmonized code of – and there is currently a maximum duty of payable. SALES PROSPECTS Clothing is an essential requisite, although consumers can also be tempted to purchase on impulse. Nowadays, few people have the necessary dressmaking and knitting skills to make their own clothing, so nearly all clothing is bought. Unusual garments and colour combinations, can differentiate one product offering from another and may be the determining factor in remaining competitive. The exit of C&A from UK retailing in 2001 has made prime High Street sites available for other chains and product offerings. In addition to this, the removal of tariffs and quotas protecting foreign markets (under the Multi Fibre Arrangement) in 2005, will increase opportunities for overseas companies. However, overseas competitors should be aware of the increased emphasis on design that differentiates British product makes it less vulnerable to cheaper foreign competition. Opportunties for . manufactured goods exist, as they are more likely to be able to compete with British designed product. Men's lifestyle magazines are helping to increase interest in men's and boys' fashion and men are more interested in fashion than they were ten years ago. Women are more financially dependent and able to spend as they like on their wardrobe, and as the proportion of working women increases, they are likely to require more clothes than they would if they stayed at home. However, as mentioned previously, the trend towards dressing down is increasing, therefore clothing purchased for the office will not necessarily include business suits. Home shopping through catalogues, the Internet, and interactive television means that goods, including clothing, can be bought at any time of the day, 7 days a week. However, people will always prefer to see the clothing and feel fabrics and textiles before purchasing so it is unlikely that home shopping will seriously threaten the High Street retailers. CONCLUSION The UK clothing market will see steady but modest growth over the next few years and is expected to reach $51. billion by 2005, an increase of 19% from 2000. Judging by current trends and evidence, it appears that the majority of this growth will come from the success of discount retailers. The diminishing mid market in fashion retailing means that best opportunities for . companies exist at this end of the scale. For more information on the UK Clothing Market, please contact: 瞎找的 看都没看
周芳芸，《曹七巧论》，四川师范大学学报，1990年第3期周芳芸，《中国现代文学悲剧女性形象研究》，天地出版社，1999鲁建平，《母性的陨落——张爱玲笔下的母亲形象与母女关系探析》陈慧茹，《母性的沦丧与异化——张爱玲小说中的母亲形象及母女关系探析》，太原大学学报缺失的情爱，一要从当时十里洋场的特殊社会背景去分析，封建主义与资本主义的双重压迫，使得女性不得不以出卖青春、爱情、肉体等方式获得生存，有人心甘情愿做了金丝雀，如《沉香屑》里的葛薇龙，《倾城之恋》里的白流苏；二是要从性压抑问题上去探讨女性所受的屈辱，《金锁记》里曹七巧是一个从被人食、到食人，再到自食的典型。还可以讲张爱玲塑造的女性形象与现代文学其他的形象作比较。
长篇：半生缘，多少恨，倾城之恋，十八春，怨女。怨女是我的最爱散文：爱，打人，道路以目，到底是上海人，更衣记，公寓生活记趣，借银灯，双声，私语，雨伞下，造人，，等等，，这些本人喜欢，，，中篇：不辛的她，霸王别姬，等，创世纪，封锁，留情，，，相见欢，，，等等。。。很多的呢，，这些我本人喜欢
基本都是有情爱的。只有一个是很极端的，曹七巧，金锁记里面的住人公。这个是一个很好的切入点和讨论重点。海内外，张的名声，一部分就是这个人物撑起来的。其他的还有本来有，又失去了的：茉莉香片里的聂传庆（男的）沉香屑：第一炉香里的葛薇龙沉香屑：第二炉香里的愫西散戏里的女主人公。（丧失了爱）同学少年都不贱里面的几个女人都又点不正常我想到的久这些了。张的文章里面缺失是少的
《倾城之恋》国内外研究现状： 一、2003年，杨泽编写出版了《阅读张爱玲》一书，引起了文坛的广泛重视。本书集结了台湾。大陆及海外学者(康来新，池上贞子，周芬伶，罗久蓉，王德威，张小虹，平路，胡锦媛，梅家玲，蔡源煌...等）对张爱玲的讨论。而这篇论文所引用的历史材料及理论构架，尤其可以见得张爱玲的启发之深，影响之远。本书是“张学”研究最重要的里程碑。 二、作家钱亚玲在一书关于《倾城之恋》的另一种解读中，叙述道无论是思想内涵抑或艺术表现形式，作于1943年10月的《金锁记》被公认为是张爱玲中篇小说之精髓。1944年出版的《传奇》小说集中，作者选《金锁记》作为开篇，足见张爱玲本人对这部中篇小说的偏爱。为此人门较易忽略于集中位居第二的《倾城之恋》。对于《倾城之恋》的评论，不论是力度还是文字的长度都远不及《金锁记》。对于《倾城之恋》这部经典文学之作，期探究价值更为明显。 《倾城之恋》具有外向的唯美主义色彩，结局是范柳原于白流苏共同走进婚姻殿堂，表面上看似圆满的结局背后却隐匿着沧桑，透露着卡破红尘的彻骨悲凉。白流苏的“圆梦”让读者觉得是一传奇故事。正如作家张爱玲的人生一样。 综上所述，当前，关于《倾城之恋》中白流苏形象分析研究比较零散、狭隘。
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她的母亲虽出身名门，却是深受五四新文化运动的熏陶与影响的新式女子，但她仍没能逃脱包办婚姻的命运。她的父亲则是一个封建遗少的形象，时代的变迁，家庭的没落，并未将他拉进现代社会的洪流，相反的，却让他自甘堕落：纳妾、抽鸦片，永远只活在腐朽的封建遗少的世界里。“张爱玲从母亲身上看到的，更多的是处于新旧时代夹缝的中国女性的无助与悲哀。”正是因为她看透了生活在封建社会，男权文化重压下的女性的悲剧命运，才铸就了她笔下一个个鲜活的女性形象。张爱玲笔下的女性是可怜的、自私的、可悲的，她以冷峻、肃杀的笔调为我们展示了一个又一个女性的悲剧。对于她笔下的女性，她不仅仅是给予了悲悯和同情，更多的也有揭露和批判。《倾城之恋》、《金锁记》是张爱玲的代表性作品，这两部作品看似无任何关联，不同的人演绎着不同的故事。但深层次剖析，我们发现，在这不同的故事里，相同的是都为我们展现了女性的悲剧。《倾城之恋》中的女主人公白流苏是一个出身旧式家庭的小姐，她受过西式教育，在受到丈夫的虐待后，甚至同败家子丈夫离了婚，也可以称得上是新式女子。但她离婚回到娘家后，并未感到丝毫家庭的温暖和安慰，兄嫂搜刮完她的财产，便迫不及待想赶她回婆家。讥讽、谩骂的话语刺激着流苏，娘家再无她的立足之地。“这屋子可住不得了！……住不得了！”（《倾城之恋》）但像她这样的女人想要独立生存，谈何容易。于是徐太太的一句：“找事，都是假的，还是找个人是真的。”（《倾城之恋》）使得流苏又回到了原来的老路上即找个男人嫁了，这是她唯一的生存之路。机缘巧合下，她结识了范柳原，这个男人是她的新希望，是她逃脱家庭的唯一出路，说到底她最看重的还是他的财富和地位，所以她便不顾一切地想要抓住这个男人，使自己得到经济上的安全。她想要占据主动的地位，想要成为她的妻子，而不是像他对待欢场上的女子那样对待她。但是，她失败了，范柳原是她无法掌控的男人，她不懂他，她只意识到“他要她，却不愿意取她。”在两性对决中，她败下阵来，，但她却不能放手，只剩下做范柳原情妇这一条出路。不知是幸与不幸，香港爆发了战争，意外的战争使得这对男女回归到最平凡的普通人，两人一刹那的谅解成全了白流苏的梦想，最终与范柳原结了婚。在这看似圆满的结局里，背后却是无尽的苍凉与绝望。流苏的圆满是以整座城市的毁灭作为代价而换来的。“香港的陷落成全了她。……也许就因为成全她，一个大都市倾覆了。”（《倾城之恋》）但“香港之战的洗礼并不曾将她感化成为革命女性，香港之战影响范柳原，使他转向平时的生活，终于结婚了，但结婚并不使他变为圣人，完全放弃往日的生活习惯与作风。”②他们的结局仍旧庸俗，而流苏的婚姻生活，也是可以预见的。《金锁记》中的曹七巧是男权社会下，彻底的悲剧女性形象，在男尊女卑制度的迫害下，曹七巧的灵魂极度扭曲，张爱玲以犀利的笔锋展现了她的疯狂、丑恶和变态。曹七巧原是乡下麻油店老板的女儿，虽出身寒微，却也天真美丽，向往纯真的爱情，也有了喜欢的人。但父权社会里，她的兄长为了金钱，将她卖给高门大户的的姜家二少爷做了偏房，从此，她便把心仪的肉店伙计锁在了心底。嫁给一个从小得了软骨病的残废少爷，就注定了她要压抑着情欲生活，在这畸形的夫妻关系中，她从未享受过人的权利和快乐。在丈夫那里得不到情欲的满足，她便转向了她的小叔子——三少爷季泽。她渴望正常的情欲生活，然而她的爱却始终得不到回应。姜家老太太把她“扶正”后，她将所有的情欲都转化为对金钱的渴望，她固执地认为，金钱就是她的一切。分家后，这种对金钱的依赖愈演愈烈。这是她用一生的幸福换来的，对金钱有着强烈的占有欲，沦为金钱的奴隶。然而她的爱与欲永久地被压抑着，造成了她灵魂的扭曲，她开始变得疯狂、恶毒。她为守住她的财产，不惜破坏儿女的婚姻和爱情。她逼死了两房儿媳，更断送了女儿的幸福。“她既是父权社会的受害者，又是父权社会的合谋者，还是人性丑恶的表现者。” “三十年来她带着黄金的枷。她用那沉重的枷角劈杀了几个人，没死的也送了半条命。”（《金锁记》）白流苏和曹七巧一个是大家闺秀，一个是淳朴的乡下妹子；一个受西式教育，可称得上新式女性，一个是曾向往纯真爱情的美丽姑娘。两个形象看似不同，但她们骨子里都烙刻着很深的女奴意识，都是男权社会下的牺牲品，男人的附属品。她们始终受奴役、受压迫，经济上的无法独立直接导致了人格的无独立。这就是她们悲剧的根源。男权社会下，她们的悲剧性主要表现在：一、亲情的沦丧白流苏的兄嫂搜刮完她的钱财，便迫不及待赶她出门。“四奶奶站在三爷背后，笑了一声道：‘自己骨肉，照说不该提钱的话，提起钱来，这话可长了！我早跟我们老四说过——我说：老四，你去劝劝三爷，你们做金子，做股票，不能用六奶奶的钱哪，没的沾上了晦气！她一嫁到婆家，丈夫就变成了败家子。回到娘家来，眼见得娘家就要败光了——天生的扫把星！’三爷到：‘四奶奶这话有理。我们那时候，如果没让她入股子，决不至于弄得一败涂地！’”（《倾城之恋》）可见，白流苏的钱花尽时，她的兄嫂已不待见她。他们之间，手足之情早已淡化，联系他们的只有金钱。曹七巧的兄长为了金钱，将她嫁给了姜家残废的二公子，丝毫不考虑自己妹妹是否会幸福。亲手将妹子推入火坑后，还要借着关心、探望的名义去姜家搜敛钱财。“曹大年道：‘妹妹你听我一句话。别说你现在心里不舒坦，有个娘家人走动着，多少好些，就是你有了出头之日了，姜家是个大家族，长辈动不动就拿大帽子压人，平辈小辈一个个如狼似虎的，哪一个是好惹的？替你打算，也得要个帮手。将来你用得着你哥哥你侄儿的时候多着呢。’七巧啐了一口道：‘我靠你帮忙，我也倒了霉了！我早把你看得透里透——斗得过他们，你到我跟前来邀功要钱，斗不过他们，你往那边一倒。本来见了官的就魂都没有了，头一缩，死不迟。’”（《金锁记》）他们之间，已不再是单纯的兄妹关系，还有金钱、利益。二、 爱情的破灭范柳原对白流苏，或许是有一点出于真心喜欢的，但他知道白流苏并不真正爱他，她看重的是他的金钱和地位，而且她并不真正懂他。所以“他要她，却不愿意娶她。”如果不是那场战争，白流苏最终的结局也只不过是范柳原的情妇。不正常的夫妻生活，使曹七巧正常的人性本能始终处于被压抑状态。因此她爱上了健康、风流的小叔子——姜季泽。她与他纠缠十几年，她知道是不可能得到他的真心的。可当她听到姜季泽那类似示爱的告白时，她的心颤抖了。“七巧低着头，沐浴在光辉里，细细的音乐，细细的喜悦……”（《金锁记》）是的，她爱他，正是因为爱他，当知道他是为了钱而诓他时，她更加愤怒。可赶他走后，她又开始后悔。“今天完全是她的错，他不是个好人，她又不是不知道，她要他，就得装糊涂，就得容忍他的坏。”（《金锁记》）她的戳穿使她的“爱情”破灭了。三、 生存的困境在这个社会里，女人毫无社会地位，更没有独立的人格。她们或许仅仅想要过安稳的日子，却很难实现。为了生存，她们只能依靠男人。白流苏认为：“一个女人，再好些，得不着异性的爱，也就得不着同性的尊重。”（《倾城之恋》）而曹七巧，即使嫁了个残废的少爷，有不甘，有苦闷，却也仍然坚持呆在姜家，她要依靠他给她的名分、地位争夺家产。“女人……女人一辈子讲的是男人，念的是男人，怨的是男人，永远永远。”这足以说明，男人，是她们唯一的活路。她们离不开，更不愿离开。七巧很看重她的家当，但她却依然抓着她的儿子长白，因为他是她生命中唯一的男人，她不能放开他，更不容许别的女人抢走他。四、自私的本性白流苏为了自己的私欲，为了得到一个男人，她一手摧残了她与七妹间的姐妹之情，为了她的生存之路，她不顾姐妹情谊投身于范柳原。“宝络心里一定在骂她，同时也对她刮目相看，肃然起敬。”（《倾城之恋》）流苏把男人看得比姐妹重。而曹七巧为了自己贪婪的本性，更是可以不顾母子之情，拆散儿子、儿媳，破坏女儿的爱情，只为了守住她的财产和她的“男人”。分财产后，曹七巧化身为恶毒的巫女、阴暗的母亲。“在她获得了家长的权利之后，她的变态心理便不可遏制的与她的‘报复’结合起来，‘她需要别人为她的牺牲也付出点什么，不管这别人是否是她的亲骨肉，只要能够补偿她的变态心理’”长白之于她，不单是儿子，还是她生命中唯一的“男人”。可当儿子结婚后，便不只属于她一个人，她需要和另一个女人来分享她的儿子，她不允许这样。她拼尽全力挑拨他们的夫妻生活，说尽儿媳的坏话，致使儿媳在痛苦的煎熬中死去。对于女儿长安，她处心积虑地破坏她的爱情，还给她吃鸦片，生怕外人走她的家当。五、女奴意识和原罪意识她们的悲剧命运一半来自于外界——遭受着男权主义的欺辱和压迫，而另一半原因则在于她们自身，她们骨子里烙刻着很深的女奴意识和原罪意识，这是受几千年来封建男权制度的影响。这种意识使她们自己陷入困境，无法走出来。她们自身就认为无论任何方面，都比男人低一等，所以想生存，只能依靠男人。曹七巧最终结局是众叛亲离，她知道她身边所有的人都怨恨她；而白流苏与范柳原最终结了婚，但范柳原终不会变为圣人，不能放弃往日的生活与作风，谁又知道白流苏会不会成为第二个曹七巧。“三十年前的月亮早已沉了下去，三十年前的人也死了，然而三十年前的故事还没完——完不了。
我没主意（别打我）...不过你可以听听倾成之恋和石南小札 或许有灵感
第一忌讳：无论文笔多么优美，都不要让描写使你的叙述陷入中止。 小说的作者必须牢记这点：不要过分描述任何事情，无论它是特顿山脉，是夕阳，还是怀基基海滩上的斑马。否则，你叙述的力度就要受到影响，你也将使读者的注意力出现危险的空白。请记住爱勒莫。雷纳德的金玉良言：“我总是力图去掉那些读者会跳过去的内容。”读者的确愿意跳过那些无效内容。 第二大忌讳：不要浪费过多的时间来描写并非重要的环境。 小说家大卫。罗吉曾宣称：“一部好的小说中的描写绝不仅仅是描写。大多数背景描写的危险在于一连串的漂亮的陈述句和叙述的中断将读者推向昏昏欲睡的境地。”请牢记罗吉的格言，将它打在纸条上贴到计算机或打字机前：“一部好的小说中的描写绝不仅仅是描写。” 第三点忌讳是：不要在一个无关紧要的事情上浪费读者的注意力。这是初学者最容易犯的错误。 第四点忌讳是：不要概括，要具体。 关于写作忌讳概括化，没有人比俄国伟大作家契河夫说得更好。他在一封信中，告诫一位作家朋友避免概括化和平常化：“我认为，对于自然的真正描写应该相当简略并与主题存在相关性。应该避免落人俗套的描写，比如，‘落日沐浴在黑色海洋的浪花之中，绦紫色的金光一泻而下’等等。在描写自然时，要抓住细节，而且要达到这样一种程度，即使闭上双眼，也仍能看到你所描写的场景。 因此，当你坐下来写作的时候，请记住，不是“一杯饮料”而是“一杯马丁尼”；不是“一只狗”而是“一只长卷毛狗”；不是“一束花”而是“一束玫瑰”；不是“一个滑雪者”而是“一位含苞欲放的年轻少女”；不是“一顶帽子”而是“一只高顶回角帽”；不是“一只猫”而是“一只阿比西尼亚猫”；不是“一支枪”而是“一支0。44口径的新式自动手枪”，不是“一幅画”而是一幅“马奈的‘奥林匹亚’”。 将描写四忌与契河夫的金玉良言合二为一，我们就得到了一条所有好的作者在描写时都应该遵循的一条规则：要具体！ 你要能准确地描绘出一幅幅场景，使人物真实可信，他们在自己国有的视觉、听觉、嗅觉、触觉和味觉中进行着日常工作。——拉威尔-斯潘塞。 “怎么才能让事情看起来真实可信呢？”当一位作家被问及这个问题的时候，实际上是对他的一种赞扬。如果有人进一步对他说：“我好像身临其境，能够听到、嗅到、感觉到这些地方，就像走进了小说的书页中”，那他给读者的东西就的确非同寻常了。当我被问及同样的问题时，我的回答是：“借助于五种感觉”。一些作者总意识不到应利用读者的五种感觉来获取真实感。利用读者的视觉感受是常见的，但是利用读者的嗅觉、听觉（除了在对话中）、触觉或是味觉又有几次呢？我从1976年开始写作，至今仍在我办公室的墙上保留着五个词：看、听、感、尝、嗅。每当我写作的时候，都会参照这张表，有意识地写些带有气味的东西。实际上，一些令人作呕的东西在创造真实感的时候，反而有奇迹般的效果。 想想当一个人打开冰箱的时候，那种腐烂的水果的味道；当一个人剥一只熊皮的时候，那腐臭的脂肪；当一位妇女在无人服务的加油站给油箱加油的时候，手上会沾满了汽油味。仅在故事的开头提及味道是不够的，在叙述情节时，你还得反复参照那张表。让我们设想一下，一男一女正在争论某件事情，男人从门口一直冲到厨房，冲着女人大声嚷嚷：“我不能再忍受你妈妈和我们住在一起，老太太必须在我回来之前搬走，否则我就离开这个家！”在设置这个场景的时候，我可以让女人烤制南瓜饼（味道甜美、温馨，让人回想像感恩节一样的快乐时光），但是如果再加上腌制香料和醋的气味，这个场景就呈现出寓意。我会在某个时刻让读者想象这种气味：“我郑重警告你，劳拉，有她没我，有我没她！”他说着，那样子就像厨房里的味道一样酸。不要忘记，在争吵的时候，劳拉还一边往罐子里装着泡菜。当她在大声吵嘴的时候，可能会烫伤手，然后把手伸到冷水里冲洗。当然，她也可能正在往泡菜里倒盐水，并且洒了一地，然后还要擦干净。她还在粗棉布制的围裙上擦干她的手。她可以擦拭从额头（热热的，痒痒的）上流淌下来的汗水，她可以一边叫嚷，一边挥舞手中的勺子（坚硬的，木柄的），并向男人扔去。这些都会增强视觉效果。当争吵越演越烈的时候，可能会听到什么声音呢？是不是有条狗溜进来，喝锡制饼盘里的水？
一.她生活的时代背景（大时代背景）。二.她的出生及生活背景迫使她性格及意识的扭曲。
《更衣记》双重美学品格论析 1942年，张爱玲在英文杂志《二十世纪》月刊上发表了散文《Chinese Life and Fashions》，后重写成中文，名为《更衣记》，刊于1943年12月的《古今》上，1945年收入散文集《流言》中，全文五千余字，记录了中国时装三百年来的变化。厚重的民族文化积淀及独特的生活阅历赋于张爱玲散文一股强烈而独特的文化气息，古典的民族文化精神与西方现代意识的双重渗透，使《更衣记》具备了双重美学品格。对中国传统文化精神与西方文化人文精神的深切把握与扬弃，使张爱玲的服饰美学思想充满了浓厚的文化内涵。 1、对东西方文化人文精神的深切领悟赋予了张爱玲的服饰美学思想以双重美学品格。 东西方文化的冲突是现代作家共同面临的课题，东方文化与西方文化的冲突是传统与现代的冲突，对此深切的领悟赋予了张爱玲作品以双重美学品格。“现代西方的时装，不必要的点缀品未尝不花样多端，但是都有个目的——把眼睛的蓝色发扬光大起来，补助不发达的胸部，使人看上去高些或矮些，集中注意力在腰肢上，消灭臀部过度的曲线……古中国衣衫上的点缀品却是完全无意义的，若说它是纯粹装饰性质的罢，为什么连鞋底上也满布着繁缛的图案呢？”“我们的时装不是一种有计划有组织的实业，不比在巴黎，几个规模宏大的时装公司如Lelonn' s Schiaparelli' s,垄断一切，影响及整个白种人的世界。我们的裁缝却是没主张的。公众的幻想往往不谋而合，产生一种不可思议的洪流。裁缝只有追随的份儿。因为这缘故，中国的时装更可以作民意的代表。”①兼用东西方两种文化视点，而能一语中的，这使张爱玲的服饰美学思想显示出更令人信服的文化内涵。 儒家的伦理道德观念对中国古代服饰的发展和变化影响极深。就其文化内涵而言，儒家思想中的“礼”的观念已渗透到穿衣戴帽的许多细节中，尤其是上层社会，无论是“君子”还是贵妇的服饰，无一不受这种观念的支配，而忠孝思想对服饰的影响更为显著。张爱玲对此观察与体会得相当敏锐。 “出门时裤子上罩的裙子，其规律化更为彻底。通常都是黑色，逢着喜庆年节，太太穿红的，姨太太穿粉红。寡妇系黑裙，可是丈夫过世多年之后，如有公婆在堂，她可以穿湖色或雪青。裙上的细褶是女人的仪态最严格的试验。家教好的姑娘，莲步姗姗，百褶裙虽不至于纹丝不动，也只限于最轻微的摇颤。不惯穿裙的小家碧玉走起路来便予人以惊风骇浪的印象。更为苛刻的是新娘的红裙，裙腰垂下一条条半寸来宽的飘带，带端系着铃。行动时只许有一点隐约的叮当，像远山上宝塔上的风铃。” 这些服饰上的规矩与民俗文化息息相关，是中国古代服饰的独特风貌，对清代仕女服饰至民初服装文化颇有参考价值，张爱玲的散文的确可以称得上是风俗录。 在《更衣记》中，张爱玲本着对人性的兴趣，和对民族性和风俗民情的特殊了解，从谈服饰入手，来表现中国人的普遍性格: “削肩，细腰，平胸，薄而小的标准美女在这一层层衣衫的重压下失踪了。她的本身是不存在的，不过是一个衣架子罢了。中国人不赞成太触目的女人。”“这里聚集了无数小小的有趣之点，这样不停地另生枝节，放姿，不讲理，在不相干的事物上浪费了精力，正是中国闲阶级一贯的态度。惟有世上最清闲的国家里最闲的人，方才能够领略到这些细节的妙处。” 与其说张爱玲在谈服饰不如说她谈的是中国人的民族性。在《更衣记》中我们也能感受到张爱玲浓厚的追求“个性化”的服饰情结，或者也可以说，这是张爱玲在此文中有意无意中所做的一个“文眼”: 目前中国人的西装，固然是谨严而黯淡，遵守西洋绅士的成规，即使中装也长年地在灰色、咖啡色、深青里面打滚，质地与图案也极单调。男子的生活比女子自由得多，然而单凭这一件不自由，我就不愿意做一个男子。 有一次我在电车上看见一个年轻人，也许是学生，也许是店伙，用米色绿方格的兔子呢制了太紧的袍，脚上穿着女式红绿条纹短袜，嘴里衔着别致的描花假象牙烟斗，烟斗里并没有烟。他吮了一会，拿下来把它一截截拆开了，又装上去，再送到嘴里吮，面上颇有得色。乍看觉得可笑，然而为什么不呢，如果他喜欢？……秋凉的薄暮，小菜场上收了摊子，满地的鱼腥和青白色的芦粟的皮与渣。一个小孩骑了自行车冲过来，卖弄本领，大叫一声，放松了扶手，摇摆着，轻倩地掠过。在这一刹那，满街的人都充满了不可理喻的景仰之心。人生最可爱的当儿便在那一撒手罢了？ 追求服饰的自由，追求一种“无所顾忌”的自在人生，这在张爱玲的许多散文中都有体现。受过东西方文化浸染的张爱玲在其服饰美学思想中体现的这种双重美学品格也让我们看到了一个“本色”的张爱玲。 2、发掘隐伏在细节事件背后的理性晶体，给读者展开一片思想的家园。 张爱玲既有独特、敏锐的感性观察力，又有独特、清醒的理性。她的散文差不多成了智慧的凝聚与发现，充满近乎神秘的哲思意味，闪烁着理性的波光。她总能在读者面前展开一片思想的家园，但这又不是有意为之，这些知性沉思是性灵之河的流淌中不时露出的一些理性的石子。在《更衣记》中张爱玲对服饰的存在形态进行深邃的哲学思考，它赋予人的已不再是情感的震撼，而是理智的启迪。 这吓人的衣服与下面的一捻柳腰完全不相称，头重脚轻，无均衡的性质正象征了那个时代。 时装的日新月异并不一定表现活泼的精神与新颖的思想。恰巧相反。它可以代表呆滞；由于其他活动范围内的失败，所有的创造力都流入衣服的区域里去。在政治混乱期间，人们没有能力改良他们的生活情形。他们只能够创造他们贴身的环境——那就是衣服。我们各人住在各人的衣服里。 这种衣领根本不可恕。可是它象征了十年前那种理智化的淫逸的空气——直挺挺的衣领远远隔开了女神似的头与下面的丰柔的肉身。这儿有讽刺，有绝望后的狂笑。 张爱玲对人对事看得太透太入骨，说起话来掷地有声，不留余地她能超越具象化的描写，自然地发掘隐伏在细节事件背后的理性晶体，给读者展开一片思想的家园，使读者获得智慧的顿悟与提升。她让读者对兼具形象描摹与启人心智功能的文章化境有了更深层的理解，这也是她所有散文的一种审美趋向。可以说，张爱玲的某些散文已成为人类知性和个人经验的结晶，她那种对人类、民俗等析理奥妙的探寻常使作品流露出某种只可意会不可言传的意味。“人生最可爱的当儿便在那一撒手罢？”一句轻轻的话语便诠释了她的美学观念，又使其散文超越了题材上的通俗和凡常，显露出其析理深度，给人以警醒和启示。 3、机敏、富丽地设色用词，兼具“机警、幽默、感伤、讽刺”的特点。 《更衣记》的语言风格同张爱玲大部分散文一样，感觉丰盈，浮想联翩，韵味盎然，机敏、富丽地设色用词，深具民族风味，同时也吸收了英国小品文机智幽默的特点。张爱玲被公认为是语言炼金师，一个个绝妙的譬喻，常令人赞叹不已。 回忆这东西若是有气味的话，那就是樟脑的香，甜而稳妥，像记得分明的快乐，甜而怅惘，像忘却了的忧愁。 中国女人的紧身背心的功用实在奇妙——衣服再紧些，衣服底下的肉体也还不是写实派的作风，看上去不大象个女人而象一缕诗魂。 女人的衣服往常是和珠宝一般，没有年纪的，随时可以变卖，然而在民国的当铺里不复受欢迎了，因为过了时就一文不值。 这些轻松随便灰谐风趣的句子，这些绝妙的比喻，在张爱玲散文中随处可见，突现了张爱玲散文语言“机警、幽默、感伤、讽刺”②的特点。 张爱玲还喜欢套用现成的诗句、俗语、谚语，并认为是中国人语言中重要的纤维。“衣服似乎是不足挂齿的小事。刘备说过这样的话:‘兄弟如手足，妻子如衣服，’可是如果女人能够做到“丈夫如衣服”的地步，就很不容易。”“在中国，自古以来女人的代名词是‘三绺梳头，两截穿衣’。”这些民族色彩浓厚的语句，被张爱玲信手拈来，运用得恰到好处。正如余彬所说:“她的散文显然比她的小说更来得从容不迫，挥洒自如。她的散文则往往可以做到起落无迹，‘行于所当行，止所当止'。”“其隽永的讽刺，尖新的造语，顾盼生姿的行文，使其文章显得分外妖娆俊俏。气盛言宜，她的文章议论风生，神采飞扬，从头到尾，一气呵成，毫无阻滞。正是傅雷赞叹的，是‘色彩鲜明，收得住，泼得出的文章。’”③ 《更衣记》中还运用了大量的色彩语言词汇，如“中国十九世纪的‘昭君套’却是颠狂冶艳的，——一顶瓜皮帽，帽沿围上一圈皮，帽顶缀着极大的红绒球，脑后垂着两根粉红缎带，带端缀着一对金印，动辄相击作声。”映现在读者眼前的全是这类鲜活的服饰描写，张爱玲善用色彩描写的原因在于她的女性气质，对世俗生活的热爱和她所受的良好的美术教育，所以运用色彩描写成了张爱玲表情达意的重要手段。 “生命是一袭华美的袍，爬满了蚤子。”《天才梦》的结尾句把生命之乐和生命之悲同时惊现于人们面前，给沉浸于现代文明中的人们以震撼。同样，“人生最可爱的当儿便在那一撒手罢？”《更衣记》中这一句似乎不经意的“文眼”，也道出了张爱玲古典美学思想中的一种现代的文明意识。张爱玲散文中的这种双重美学品格，在中国现当代散文随笔中，都堪称典范。 [1]来风仪编.张爱玲散文全编[M].浙江文艺出版社，1992. [2]周芬伶.《艳异-一张爱玲与中国文学》[M].中国华侨出版社，2003. [3]余彬.张爱玲传.[M].海南出版社，1993.
张爱玲《金锁记》的艺术手法的论文 我指导你