中西服饰的差异研究论文

一、 差异的主要表现

1、色彩

一个民族对颜色的喜好从某种意义上反映了这个民族潜意识的性格特征。在夏、商、周时，黑色被中国的先人认为是支配万物的天帝色彩。后来人们把对天神(黑色) 的崇拜转向对大(黄色) 的崇拜,所以形成“黄为贵”的传统观念。

传统服装色彩受阴阳五行影响,有青、红、黑、白、黄五色之说,它们被称为正色,其他颜色为间色。正色在大多数朝代为上等社会专用,表示高贵。

在民间,正色也是人们衣着配色所喜爱和追求的颜色。我国古代封建等级制度森严，这一点也表现在服装上:先开始于民间,一旦被皇家贵族看中,就禁止民间使用,否则,轻者杀身,重者株连九族；如果一种服装的色彩开始是皇家贵族所穿,后来不穿了,成为一般民间服装,则这种服装的色彩立即被视为卑贱的色彩。

而在西方,在罗马时代最流行的色彩是白色和紫色。白色象征纯洁、正直、神圣，也代表魅力。这也是西方人喜欢选择白色作为婚纱礼服的原因。人们也曾对服饰上充满宗教气氛的色彩也十分向往。欧洲文艺复兴以来,随着服饰奢华程度的升级,明亮的色彩受到人们的欢迎。

法国人钟情于丁香色和蔷薇色,也很迷恋含蓄的天蓝和圣洁的白色;西班牙人却崇尚高雅的玫瑰红和灰色调;在英国,黑色有意想不到的复杂及强烈感，因为黑色被认为是神秘、高贵的色彩,但有时也被用于沉默、不吉利或悲哀的丧服。

2、外形

从外形特征上来讲,中国传统服装的外形强调纵向感觉,常用下垂的线条、过手的长袖和筒形的袍裙。中国传统服装形式以前开型的大襟和对襟式样为主。上衣下裳制和衣裳连属制为中国服装的两种基本形制，两种形制在中国几千年的历史中交叉使用，相容并蓄。

西洋服装在样式上有一个演变过程，由古希腊时的披裹式到中世纪的以披裹式的非成型类衣和前开式的半成型类衣为主。中国传统服装的外形自衣领部位开始自然下垂，不夸张肩部，常用下垂的线条、过手的长袖、筒形的袍裙强调纵向感觉，使着装人体显得修长。

而西洋古典服装的外形强调横向感觉，常采用横向扩张的肩部轮廓、各种硬领、轮状领、膨胀的袖型、庞大的裙撑、重叠的花边和花朵以及浆过的纱料和各部位的衬垫，使服装线条产生夸张和向外放射的效果。

而且从结构特征看，无论袍、衫、襦、褂，通常只有袖底缝和侧摆相连的一条结构线。中式服装采用中国传统的平面直线裁剪方法，无起肩和袖窿部分，整件衣服可以平铺于地，结构简单舒展。

西方服装为了最终取得与三维人体相吻合的具有立体效果，多采用立体裁剪方法，立体裁剪方法视人体为多面体至少是四面体，细心对待人体从上到下、从前到后各个方面的凸凹起伏关系，利用打褶和省道处理等服装工艺手段。

3、图案

中西服饰在对图案的选择上也呈现五花八门之势。从古到今,从高贵绸缎到民间印花布,吉祥图样运用极为广泛。人们都喜欢运用各种图案来隐喻对图腾崇拜，表达对美满生活的希望，如龙凤呈祥、九龙戏珠、喜鹊登梅等图样。这表明中式服装喜好运用图案表示吉祥的祝愿。

西欧服装上的图案随着历史的变迁而不断变化。

古代多流行花草放样,意大利文艺复兴时期流行华丽的花卉图案,法国路易十五时期,受洛可可装饰风格的影响,流行表现S形或旋涡形的藤草和轻淡柔和的庭院花草放样。野兽派的杜飞花样、利用几何绪视原理设计的欧普图案等则是近代流行的图案花样。

上：中国服饰

下：西方服饰

中国服饰的历史源远流长，从原始社会、夏商周、春秋战国、秦汉、魏晋南北朝、隋唐、宋辽夏金元、明、清，到近现代，都以鲜明特色为世界所瞩目，主要以汉服为主，另外还有胡服、旗装等。

“西方”，沿用了关于区域范畴的习惯称谓，与亚洲一带的“东方”相对。西方服装史，即是以西欧国家为主，上溯至美索不达米亚和埃及的服装发展史。西方服装体现出与东方服装相迥异的风格，特别是其中所蕴含的文化元素，代表了人类服装史的一个重要组成部分。

扩展资料：

二、导致中西方服饰差异的原因分析

1、中西服饰文化的差异

中国几千年来的历史进程中，我们的祖先创造了底蕴深厚的宽衣服饰文化，形成了特有的美学与哲学观念，与西方截然不同。

西方则强调主观世界与客观世界分离，明确提出主观为我，客观为物，“物”与“我”是相对立的，不容混淆的，致使他们习惯于理性观察世界和探讨规律，并形成一种追求自然法则以获得真理的作法。因而，表现出以一种理性的或科学性的态度对待服饰。

2、中西方美学观念的差异

中国服饰美学观念表现在女装造型上的是意象的结构。

这种平面的直线与曲线的裁剪方法使衣服适体又不完全合体，不裸露张扬也不尽力束缚，在遮体的隐约之中含蓄地显现了流畅婉约，温情流动的人体曲线美，造型意识是节奏化的，让视点随着自己的心愿移动，使生命之体在宽衣的帖体与离体之间流露气韵。

我国传统的服装空间造型是借“虚与实”、“明与暗”的节奏表达出来。西方的服装空间意识是在中世纪以后形成的，反映了西方人对空间的探求心理，渴望占据更多的空间，于是增大服装造型的体积，将服装视为扩大自我肉体的一种工具。

这种夸张的服装造型使人与自然整体之间，人与人的个体之间保持着一定的距离，反映了西方人的宇宙观，也反映了人与自然万物、心灵与环境、主观与客观的对立性。由于东方与西方不同的哲学美学观念在服装上创造了不同的基本造型，体现了不同的精神气韵。

3、中西服饰文化中的着装理念的差异

在中国传统的社会及家庭教育中，服装行为规范被看作是修身的一个重要内容，并长期影响着中国人的着装生活。人们在着装上注重伦理内容，用服装掩盖人体，竭力超越人体的局限，以达到儒家的道德要求。服装美注重表现人的精神、气质、神韵之美，并不强调形体。

西方服装文化属于多元化的范畴，其中最显著的特点是服装突出个性，显示个性。

参考资料来源：百度百科-中国服饰 （中国历代服饰）

参考资料来源：百度百科-西方服装史

Abstract: Dress culture is a cultural phenomenon unique to human beings. As it has different aesthetic ideas, different dressing concepts and different dress etiquette in China and west, it forms Chinese and western dress culture of the different connotation and characteristics. This thesis is divided into four major sections. The first part describes the different features of Chinese and western dress and why people wear clothing. The second part describes cultural differences between Chinese and western clothing. The third part gives an analysis of Chinese and western dress culture. The last part describes Chinese and western dress aesthetic culture and dress concept. Based on the analysis, the thesis finally draws a conclusion. Chinese and western dress culture each has rich connotation and distinct characteristics, which are precious cultural legacy which is left by human ancestors and are the world culture heritage. At the same time, we treasure our own civilization of five thousand years instead of belittling ourselves. It is significant to promote and develop our unique costume culture. We are confident and make contributions to realizing the rejuvenation of our Chinese nation and enriching the clothing culture of the whole world. Key words: Chinese and western clothing; culture；differences；aesthetic culture and clothing concepts 摘要摘要摘要摘要::::服饰文化是人类特有的文化现象。由于中西方各民族的审美观念、着装理念和服饰礼仪的不同，从而形成了不同内涵、不同特色的中西方服饰文化。本文共分为四部分。第一部分主要介绍了中西服饰的不同特征以及为什么人要穿衣服，第二部分写中西方服饰的差异，第三部分写导致中西方服饰文化差异的原因，第四部分则写中西方服饰审美文化和着装理念。通过以上简单的论述，最后得出结论，中西方服饰文化各具有丰富的内涵和鲜明的特色，她们都是人类祖先留下来的宝贵文化遗产 ,是世界文化的瑰宝。与此同时,我们应该珍惜自己五千年的文明而不是贬低自己的文明。促进和发展我们独特的民族服饰文化具有重要的意义。为了实现我们中华民族的文化复兴和丰富整个世界的文化，让我们自信起来吧！ 关键词关键词关键词关键词::::中西服饰；文化；差异性；审美文化与着装理念Introduction Costume culture, carried by costume, is a respect of our physical and spiritual life and a mixture of our psychological activities like consciousness, emotion, idea and ideal. The rapid development of advanced technology makes multiculturalism stand out and also makes conflicts between China and the West increase. In that case, it becomes more and more important to recognize the similarities and differences of costume culture between China and the West. Nowadays, the whole world is, to some extent, dominated by the western costume culture, which has wound its way into the daily life of the whole world, together with technology, life style and values from the West. Quite popular in China, it’s nominally called “internationalization” or “globalization”. In recent years, the costume industry of China has developed swiftly. The “international” costume, featured by the western costume culture, has become a pretty important part of our daily life. However, as our economy takes off, international status rises and living standard improves, a wave of national costume culture resurgence is rising. Moreover, people from the West pay more and more attention to the giant dragon in the East——China. Western costume designers constantly introduce Chinese costume cultural elements to their latest designs. Those phenomena arouse a series of thoughts: what distinguishes Chinese costume culture from the western one? Are there any similarities between them? What kind of costume culture will we Chinese hold as the mainstream in the future, the so-called “international” western one, the Chinese one or the fusion of the two? To obtain the answers to these questions, we are supposed to study and contrast carefully the characteristics and developing processes of them, and then draw some regularity. To contrast the costume culture between China and the West, it is necessary for us to master a good knowledge of the Chinese and western costume cultural 1 Chinese and western dress The different features of Chinese and western dress China is known as “Xia” as it’s a land of propriety, and it’s also known as “Hua” with the beauty of its costume. (①《左传》p83) Our national costume is Hanfu. It originated in the Yanhuang era, formed in the Spring and Autumn Period and officially took form in Han Dynasty. That’s the reason why it’s called “Hanfu”. Since then, in spite of historical evolutions of all ages, their basic characteristics have never changed. Hanfu, on the whole, can be divided into four developing stages: Zhou Han Hanfu, Wei Jin Hanfu, Sui Tang Hanfu and Song Ming Hanfu. Zhou Han Hanfu was featured by dignity and simplicity, while Wei Jin Hanfu by chic and elegance, Sui Tang Hanfu by dignified, graceful, elegant and poised style. Hanfu in Song and Ming Dynasties epitomizes the characteristics of the past-simple, dignified, elegant, etc. In Qing Dynasty, Hanfu was forbidden by the government and disappeared from the land of China. The main features of Chinese clothing are focusing on the right collar’s overlap, the band deducted hidden, big sleeves, no buttons and using string binding, giving the impression of free and easy flowing. These characteristics are obviously different from those of other ethnic costumes. Hanfu is divided into uniform and common clothing. With strict standards, uniform is dressed on formal occasions while the common clothing, without long sleeves, is very convenient to people’s daily life. However, the western clothing is different form the Chinese clothing. The West belongs to Marine civilization, it emphasizes the subjective and objective separation and that we should rationally treat clothing, advocate releasing personality, stress dress effect and be good at showing beautiful the posture of the body. Besides, we use various clipping, color collocation means to perfect bodily curve and give a person with visual comfort in the modeling. A suit, also known as a business suit, comprises a collection of matching clothing consisting of: a coat﹙commonly known as a jacket﹚,a waistcoat﹙optional﹚﹙USA vest﹚for men, a pair of trousers﹙USA pants﹚, or for women, a shirt or trousers. A suit is generally accompanied by torment, a shirt and tie or for women, a blouse. Why people wear clothingChinese people are concerned more about its social function of helping to rule a country well than that of keeping warm or decorating. It has a lot to do with ruling a country to regulate the dressing way of the common people. Nevertheless, the westerners pay more attention to its wealth value and function. Therefore, people put on clothing for functional and social reasons. The functional reason The first use of clothing is to resist the cold and cover the body. Functions of clothing include providing the human body protection against extremes of climate (extreme heat, icy winters, and drenching storms) and protection against insects, noxious, chemicals, and contact with abrasive substances. In sum, clothing protects human beings against anything that might injure the naked, unprotected human body. The social reason Clothing also delivers social messages to other humans. Social messages sent by clothing, accessories, and decorations can involve social status, occupation, ethnic and religious belief, marital status, cultural degree and sexual availability, etc. For example, only Roman citizens can wear “Toga” in Rome while dragon robe can only be dressed by the emperor in China.

服饰文化是一种整体文化。它是指服装、饰物、穿着方式、装扮，包括发型、化妆在内的多种因素的有机整体。服饰文化是一个民族、一个国家文化素质的物化，是内在精神的外观，是社会风貌的显示。由于历史条件、生活方式、心理素质和 文化观念的差别，中西方的服饰文化有着较大的差别。中国传统服饰文化观念的特色1、善于表达形与色的含蓄朦朦胧胧,藏而不露,隐含寓意,给人以审美的感受。这种含蓄,有时通过款式展现, 有时也可通过造型、布局、色彩、线条等手段给人以整体和谐之美。2、注重精细的艺术手法和工艺表现大量采用刺绣、飘带、图案和其它装饰手法,表达丰富的想象,以浪漫主义情调达到现实主义的效果。3、注重气派稳重的氛围效果服装的整体配合给人以秩序和谐美感,严肃庄重,美观高雅,能起到烘托月之效,服饰文化与环境相配合,更具鲜明的时代感。4、注重服饰文化的民族性服饰文化是一个民族个性的重要标志之一。服饰作为一种民俗现象,具有鲜明的民族性。不同民族长期交往,服饰文化互相影响和渗透,甚至有意借鉴和模仿。但是中华民族有自己的审美趣味,伦理道德,因而有自己的着装规范。5、受中国传统文化的影响A、 注重营造和平统一的气氛孔子曰：“见人不可不饰,不饰无貌,无貌不敬,不敬无礼,无礼不立。”时过千年,在以孔孟之道为核心的大一统思想指导下,中国服饰也力求稳重、平静,有助于安宁、融洽和礼让之先的人际关系。B、“文质彬彬”——儒家对服饰的审美观文是指一个人服饰的美,质是指一个人资质的美。C、“披褐怀玉”一一道家对服饰的审美观“清水出芙蓉,天然去雕饰”，若不以论诗,而以论人,正可为道家对服饰的审美观。西方服饰文化观念的特色1、 崇尚人体美从古希腊时代至今，西方艺术包括服饰在内，常把讴歌和显示人体自然美当作无上的典型。因 此服饰在西方人的身上成了“副件”：女性通过裸露或挂丝尽显其形体之美,男性则更赤裸地表现肌肤的健康和力量的强大。2、 服装是为了吸引异性对自己的注意西方服饰通过对人体曲线和对某些敏感部位作裸露处理,最大限度地发挥服饰吸引力,给人以不可言状的美感,以此产生心理效应,使人迅速进入纯粹的审美境界。3、突 出表现个性西方人着装重在表现自我,寻求对平衡的突破和片面性的掘进,自我设计、自我表现、自我创造而别具一格；通过着装充分表明自我的理想境界和各种观念,借以标明自我。4、 追求感官刺激西方服饰时刻使欣赏者能顿发性感,形成不寻常的感官剌激。设计大师通过精心设计,独特的色彩搭配组合和特殊的线条分割,充分体现性的心理、生理特征。因此在西方,性感明显的服饰比比皆是。