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一部人类服饰演化史，从某种意义上说，也是一部感性化了的人类文化发展史。 服饰是人类特有的劳动成果，它既是物质文明的结晶，又具精神文明的含意。人类社会经过蒙昧、野蛮到文明时代，缓缓地行进了几十万年。我们的祖先在与猿猴相揖别以后，披着兽皮与树叶，在风雨中徘徊了难以计数的岁月，终于艰难地跨进了文明时代的门槛，懂得了遮身暖体，创造出一个物质文明。然而，追求美是人的天性，衣冠于人，如金装在佛，其作用不仅在遮身暖体，更具有美化的功能。几乎是从服饰起源的那天起，人们就已将其生活习俗、审美情趣、色彩爱好，以及种种文化心态、宗教观念，都沉淀于服饰之中，构筑成了服饰文化的精神文明内涵。 原始社会服饰(公元前21世纪之前) 战国时人撰写的《吕氏春秋》、《世本》及稍晚的《淮南子》提到，黄帝、胡曹或伯余创造了衣裳。从出土文物方面考察，服饰演化史的源头，可上溯到原始社会旧石器时代晚期。在北京周口店山顶洞人(距今1.9万年左右)遗址中，发现有1枚骨针和141件钻孔的石、骨、贝、牙装饰品。证实当时已能利用兽皮一类自然材料缝制简单的衣服。中华服饰文化史由此发端。 商周服饰(约公元前16世纪～前771年) 商代衣服材料主要是皮、革、丝、麻。由于纺织技术的进展，丝麻织物已占重要地位。商代人已能精细织造极薄的绸子，衣料用色厚重。 西周时，等级制度逐步确立，周王朝设“司服”、“内司服”官职，掌管王室服饰。根据文献记载和出土文物分析，中国冠服制度，初步建立于夏商时期，到周代已完整完善，春秋战国之交被纳入礼治。 从周代出土的人形文物看，服饰装饰虽繁简不同，但上衣下裳已分明，奠定了中国服装的基本形制。 春秋战国服饰(公元前770～前221) 春秋战国时期织绣工艺的巨大进步，使服饰材料日益精细，品种名目日见繁多。工艺的传播，使多样、精美的衣着服饰脱颖而出。 春秋战国时期的衣着，上层人物的宽博、下层社会的窄小，已成为趋势。 深衣有将身体深藏之意，是士大夫阶层居家的便服，又是庶人百姓的礼服，男女通用，可能形成于春秋战国之交。深衣剪彩独特，衣与衫相连在一起，制作时上下分裁，中间有缝相连接，用途最为广泛，隆重程度仅次于朝祭之服。 公元前307年赵武灵王颁胡服令，推行“胡服骑射”。胡服指当时“胡人”的服饰，与中原地区宽衣博带的服装有较大差异，特征是衣长齐膝，腰束郭洛带，用带钩，穿靴，便于骑射活动。 秦汉服饰(公元前221～公元220) 这一时期的衣料较春秋战国时期丰富，深衣也得到了新的发展。 西汉建元三年(公元前138)、元狩四年(公元前119)，张骞[qiān]奉命两次出使西域，开辟了中国与西方各国的陆路通道，成千上万匹丝绸源源外运，历魏晋隋唐，迄未中断，史称“丝绸之路”。于是，中华服饰文化传往世界。 秦代服制与战国时无大差别，保持中国服饰深衣的基本形制。西汉男女服装，仍沿袭深衣形式。不论单、绵，多是上衣和下裳分裁合缝连为一体，上下依旧不通缝、不通幅;外衣里面都有中衣及内衣，其领袖缘一并显露在外，成为定型化套装。下着紧口大裤，保持“褒衣大裙”风格。秦代服制，服色尚黑。 汉代有了舆服制度。史书列有皇帝与群臣的礼服、朝服、常服等20余种。服饰上的等级差别已十分明显。主要表现在:冠服在因袭旧制的基础上，发展成为区分等级的基本标识;佩绶制度确立为区分官阶的标识。 公元前202年，刘邦战胜项羽，建立汉朝，定都长安， 汉初统治者汲取秦亡的教训，对农民采取轻徭薄赋的休养生息政策。一般制度多无太大改变，冠服制度，也大都承袭秦制。直至东汉明帝永平二年，才算有正式完备的规定。 汉初，由于统治者采取了休养生息政策，经济得到恢复发展，出现了“文景之治”这样的太平盛世。农业和手工业得到了长足提高。当时民间手工业最普遍的就是纺织业。这一时期丝绸锦绣产量极多。汉代的纺织工艺也达到很高的水平。 汉朝的衣服，主要的有袍、襜褕［直身的单衣］、襦［短衣］、裙。汉代因为织绣工业很发达，所以有钱人家就可以穿绫罗绸缎漂亮的衣服。一般人家穿的是短衣长裤，贫穷人家穿的是短褐［粗布做的短衣］。汉朝的妇女穿着有衣裙两件式，也有长袍，裙子的样式也多了，最有名的是“留仙裙”。 ［相传汉朝赵飞燕被立为皇后以后，十分喜爱穿裙子。有一次，她穿了条云英紫裙，与汉成帝游太液池。鼓乐声中，飞燕翩翩起舞，裙裾飘飘。恰在这时大风突起，她像轻盈的燕子似的被风吹了起来。成帝忙命侍从将她拉住，没想到惊慌之中却拽住了裙子。皇后得救了，而裙子上却被弄出了不少褶皱。可是说来也怪，起了皱的裙子却比先前没有褶皱的更好看了。从此，宫女们竞相效仿，这便是当时的“留仙裙”。］
服饰文化是一种整体文化。它是指服装、饰物、穿着方式、装扮，包括发型、化妆在内的多种因素的有机整体。服饰文化是一个民族、一个国家文化素质的物化，是内在精神的外观，是社会风貌的显示。由于历史条件、生活方式、心理素质和 文化观念的差别，中西方的服饰文化有着较大的差别。中国传统服饰文化观念的特色1、善于表达形与色的含蓄朦朦胧胧,藏而不露,隐含寓意,给人以审美的感受。这种含蓄,有时通过款式展现, 有时也可通过造型、布局、色彩、线条等手段给人以整体和谐之美。2、注重精细的艺术手法和工艺表现大量采用刺绣、飘带、图案和其它装饰手法,表达丰富的想象,以浪漫主义情调达到现实主义的效果。3、注重气派稳重的氛围效果服装的整体配合给人以秩序和谐美感,严肃庄重,美观高雅,能起到烘托月之效,服饰文化与环境相配合,更具鲜明的时代感。4、注重服饰文化的民族性服饰文化是一个民族个性的重要标志之一。服饰作为一种民俗现象,具有鲜明的民族性。不同民族长期交往,服饰文化互相影响和渗透,甚至有意借鉴和模仿。但是中华民族有自己的审美趣味,伦理道德,因而有自己的着装规范。5、受中国传统文化的影响A、 注重营造和平统一的气氛孔子曰：“见人不可不饰,不饰无貌,无貌不敬,不敬无礼,无礼不立。”时过千年,在以孔孟之道为核心的大一统思想指导下,中国服饰也力求稳重、平静,有助于安宁、融洽和礼让之先的人际关系。B、“文质彬彬”——儒家对服饰的审美观文是指一个人服饰的美,质是指一个人资质的美。C、“披褐怀玉”一一道家对服饰的审美观“清水出芙蓉,天然去雕饰”，若不以论诗,而以论人,正可为道家对服饰的审美观。西方服饰文化观念的特色1、 崇尚人体美从古希腊时代至今，西方艺术包括服饰在内，常把讴歌和显示人体自然美当作无上的典型。因 此服饰在西方人的身上成了“副件”：女性通过裸露或挂丝尽显其形体之美,男性则更赤裸地表现肌肤的健康和力量的强大。2、 服装是为了吸引异性对自己的注意西方服饰通过对人体曲线和对某些敏感部位作裸露处理,最大限度地发挥服饰吸引力,给人以不可言状的美感,以此产生心理效应,使人迅速进入纯粹的审美境界。3、突 出表现个性西方人着装重在表现自我,寻求对平衡的突破和片面性的掘进,自我设计、自我表现、自我创造而别具一格；通过着装充分表明自我的理想境界和各种观念,借以标明自我。4、 追求感官刺激西方服饰时刻使欣赏者能顿发性感,形成不寻常的感官剌激。设计大师通过精心设计,独特的色彩搭配组合和特殊的线条分割,充分体现性的心理、生理特征。因此在西方,性感明显的服饰比比皆是。
中国服饰演变古今谈 服饰是人类特有的劳动成果，它既是物质文明的结晶，又具精神文明的含意。我们的祖先告别了猿猴时代，披着兽皮与树叶，艰难地进入了文明时代，知道了遮身暖体，创造了最早的服饰文化。但是追求美是人的天性，服饰的作用又不仅仅在遮身暖体了，同时也有着美化的功能。中国古代的先民从服饰起源之始，就已将其生活习俗、审美情趣、色彩爱好，以及种种文化心态、宗教观念，都融于日常生活的服饰穿戴之中，构成了服饰文化的物质文明和精神文明的双重内涵，开创了中华民族服饰文化的先河。不同的历史阶段服饰的材料、功能等也会随之而改变。 从出土文物方面考察，服饰演化史的源头，可上溯到原始社会旧石器时代晚期。在北京周口店山顶洞人(距今1.9万年左右)遗址中，发现有1枚骨针和141件钻孔的石、骨、贝、牙装饰品。证实当时已能利用兽皮一类自然材料缝制简单的衣服。中华服饰文化史由此发端。 在纺织技术尚未发明之前，动物的毛皮是人们服装的主要材料。当时还没有绳、线，可能用动物韧带来缝制衣服。在山顶洞人的遗址及其它古墓里，曾发掘出大量的装饰物，其中有头饰、颈饰和腕饰等，材料有天然美石美石、兽齿鱼骨和海里的贝壳等，当时佩戴这些饰物，可能不仅是为了装饰，也许还包含着对渔猎胜利的纪念。 到了商代衣服材料主要是皮、革、丝、麻。由于纺织技术的进展，丝麻织物已占重要地位。商代人已能精细织造极薄的绸子，衣料用色厚重。西周时，等级制度逐步确立，周王朝设“司服”、“内司服”官职，掌管王室服饰。根据文献记载和出土文物分析，中国冠服制度，初步建立于夏商时期，到周代已完整完善，春秋战国之交被纳入礼治。 从周代出土的人形文物看，服饰装饰虽繁简不同，但上衣下裳已分明，奠定了中国服装的基本形制。 春秋战国时期织绣工艺的巨大进步，使服饰材料日益精细，品种名目日见繁多。工艺的传播，使多样、精美的衣着服饰脱颖而出。 在服装方面最重要的变化，是深衣的广泛流行和胡服的出现。春秋战国时期的战争促进了汉族宽衣博带、长裙长袍服装的改革。赵武灵王为了军队的战斗力，冲破阻力，下令全国穿游牧民族的短衣长裤，学习骑射，终于使赵国强盛起来。这是中国历史上第一次服装改革，胡服从此盛行。伴随胡服也传来了带钩，它是用于结束革带的，由于它比革带的扎结方式更加便捷，因而很快就流行起来。 秦汉时期的衣料较春秋战国时期丰富，深衣也得到了新的发展。 西汉建元三年(公元前138)、元狩四年(公元前119)，张骞奉命两次出使西域，开辟了中国与西方各国的陆路通道，成千上万匹丝绸源源外运，历魏晋隋唐，迄未中断，史称“丝绸之路”。于是，中华服饰文化传往世界。 秦代服制与战国时无大差别，保持中国服饰深衣的基本形制。西汉男女服装，仍沿袭深衣形式。不论单、绵，多是上衣和下裳分裁合缝连为一体，上下依旧不通缝、不通幅;外衣里面都有中衣及内衣，其领袖缘一并显露在外，成为定型化套装。下着紧口大裤，保持“褒衣大裙”风格。秦代服制，服色尚黑。 汉初，由于统治者采取了休养生息政策，经济得到恢复发展，出现了“文景之治”这样的太平盛世。农业和手工业得到了长足提高。当时民间手工业最普遍的就是纺织业。这一时期丝绸锦绣产量极多。汉代的纺织工艺也达到很高的水平。汉朝的衣服，主要的有袍、襜褕［直身的单衣］、襦［短衣］、裙。汉代因为织绣工业很发达，所以有钱人家就可以穿绫罗绸缎漂亮的衣服。一般人家穿的是短衣长裤，贫穷人家穿的是短褐［粗布做的短衣］。汉朝的妇女穿着有衣裙两件式，也有长袍，裙子的样式也多了，最有名的是“留仙裙”。 汉代创造的前所未有的物质财富，使汉代人对人类生产能力持有乐观信心。在《中国美学思想史》中作者说到“汉人继承了道家美学的基本思想，又舍弃了它的消极出世思想，吸取了儒家某些合理观点，注意了自然规律与人的目的的统一性，坚信广大的外部世界存在着无限丰富多样的美，人们应当积极地去发现、占有，享受这种美。” 南北朝时，北方少数民族入主中原，人民错居杂处，政治、经济、文化风习相互渗透，形成大融合局面，服饰也因而改易发展。北方民族短衣打扮的袴褶渐成主流，不分贵贱、男女都可穿用。女子衣着“上俭下丰”。 东晋末至齐、梁间，衣着为襦裙套装，原始于汉代，晋代时具有了上衣短小、下裙宽大的特色。少数民族服饰受汉朝典章礼仪影响，穿起了汉族服装。 鲜卑族北魏朝于太和十八年(494)迁都洛阳后，魏孝文帝推行华化政策，改拓跋姓氏，率“群臣皆服汉魏衣冠”。原来鲜卑族穿着夹领小袖衣服，这次改革旧俗，史称“孝文改制”，使秦汉以来冠服旧制得以赓续，推动了中华服饰文化的发展。 魏晋南北朝时期的服饰，大体上仍承袭秦汉旧制。南北朝各少数民族初建政权时，仍然按照本族的习俗穿着，后受到汉族文化的影响，也开始穿着汉族的服饰。魏晋南北朝是我国古代服装史的大变动时期，这个时候因为大量的胡人搬到中原来住，胡服便成了当时时髦的服装。紧身、圆领、开叉就是胡服的特点。 隋唐时期，中国由分裂而统一，由战乱而稳定，经济文化繁荣，服饰的发展无论衣料还是衣式，都呈现出一派空前灿烂的景象。 隋唐时期最时兴的女子衣着是襦裙，襦裙是唐代妇女的主要服式。在隋代及初唐时期，妇女的短襦都用小袖，下着紧身长裙，裙腰高系，一般都在腰部以上，有的甚至系在腋下，并以丝带系扎，给人一种俏丽修长的感觉。中唐时期的襦裙的比初唐的较宽阔一些，其它无太大变化。隋唐女子好打扮。从宫廷传开的“半臂”，有对襟、套头、翻领或无领式样，袖长齐肘，身长及腰，以小带子当胸结住。因领口宽大，穿时袒露上胸。半臂历久不衰，后来男子也有穿着的。当时还流行长巾子，系用银花或金银粉绘花的薄纱罗制作，一端固定在半臂的胸带上，再披搭肩上，旋绕于手臂间，名曰披帛。 女装男性化是唐代社会开放的表现之一，妇女穿着男装是当时一种时尚。唐人善于融合西北少数民族和天竺、波斯等外来文化，唐贞观至开元年间十分流行胡服新装。 宋代基本保留了汉民族服饰的风格，辽、西夏、金及元代的服饰则分别具有契丹、党项、女真及蒙古民族的特点。各民族服饰再度交流与融合. 宋代服饰大致有官服、便服、遗老服等三式。宋代官服面料以罗为主，政府因五代旧制，每年要赠送亲贵大臣锦缎袍料，分七等不同花色。官服服色沿袭唐制，三品以上服紫，五品以上服朱，七品以上服绿，九品以上服青。官服服式大致近于晚唐的大袖长袍，宋代的服装，其服色、服式多承袭唐代，只是与传统的溶合做得更好、更自然，给人的感觉是恢复中国的风格。 宋朝时侯的服饰宋朝的男装大体上沿袭唐代样式，一般百姓多穿交领或圆领的长袍，衣服是黑白两种颜色。女装是上身穿窄袖短衣，下身穿长裙，通常在上衣外面再穿一件对襟的长袖小褙子，很像现在的背心，褙子的领口和前襟，都绣上漂亮的花边。 辽、西夏、金、元分别为中国古代契丹、党项、女真民族建立的政权，其服饰反映了在与汉民族进行长期文化交流中，各自发扬民族传统的发展轨迹。党项族妇女多着翻领胡服，领间刺绣精美。契丹、女真族一般穿窄袖圆领齐膝外衣，足下着长统靴，宜于马上作战射猎;妇女穿窄袖交领袍衫，长齐足背，都是左衽［从左向右扣］，正与汉人相反，所习惯穿用的钓墩传到内地曾广为流行。辽金政权考虑到与汉族杂处共存的现实，都曾设“南官”制度，以汉族治境内汉人，对汉族官员采用唐宋官服旧制。契丹、女真男服因便于行动，也为汉人采用。 明代以汉族传统服装为主体，清代则以满族服装为大流。而两代上下层社会的服饰均有明显等级。上层社会的官服是权力的象征，历来受到统治阶级的重视。自唐宋以降，龙袍和黄色就为王室所专用。百官公服自南北朝以来紫色为贵。 明代普通百姓的服装或长、或短、或衫、或裙，基本上承袭了旧传统，且品种十分丰富。服饰用色方面，平民妻女只能衣紫、绿、桃红等色，以免与官服正色相混;劳动大众只许用褐色。清王朝时，以暴力手段推行剃发易服，按满族习俗统一男子服饰。顺治九年（1652），钦定《服色肩舆条例》颁行，从此废除了浓厚汉民族色彩的冠冕衣裳。明代男子一律蓄发挽髻，着宽松衣，穿长统袜、浅面鞋;清时则剃发留辫，辫垂脑后，穿瘦削的马蹄袖箭衣、紧袜、深统靴。但官民服饰依律泾渭分明。 清代官服主要品种为长袍马褂。马褂为加于袍的外褂，因起源于骑马短衣而得名，特点是前后开衩、当胸钉石青补子一方(亲王、郡王用圆补)。补子的鸟兽纹样和等级顺序与明朝大同小异。丝纺绣染及各种手工专业的进步，为清代服饰品种的丰富创造了条件。 中国古代服饰文化是璀璨华美，丰富多彩的。服饰作为一种文化形态，贯穿了中国古代各个时期的历史。从服饰的演变中可以看出历史的变迁、经济的发展和文化审美意识的演变。无论是商的“威严庄重”，周的“秩序井然”，战国的“清新”，汉的“凝重”，还是六朝的“清瘦”，唐的“丰满华丽”，宋的“理性美”，元的“粗壮豪放”，明的“敦厚繁丽”，清的“纤巧”，无不体现出中国古人的审美倾向和思想内涵。 1840年鸦片战争以后，中国进入了近代。帝国主义的侵略，逐步使我国沦为半封建半殖民地的地位。同时，西方资本主义文化的影响也日趋扩大，衣冠服饰随之而发生变化。妇女发饰，随着社会风气的转变而不断变化。男子的服装主要有长袍、马褂、等等。其中长袍、马褂，为《服制》中规定的服饰，一般用于交际。妇女服饰中最大的特点，是普遍穿着旗袍。旗袍本是满族妇女喜爱的服装，旗袍源于满族妇女服饰中的旗装。满族旗袍主要特点为宽大、平直，衣长及足，材料多用绸缎，衣上绣满花纹，领、衣、襟、裾都滚有宽阔的花边。穿旗装时，梳旗髻、穿旗鞋。 民国初年女装在这一时期上衣下裙最为流行，上衣有衫、袄、背心、，样式有对襟、琵琶襟、一字襟、大襟、直襟、斜襟等变化，领、袖、襟、摆多镶滚花边或刺绣纹样，衣摆有方有圆、宽瘦长短的变化也较多。二十年代，旗袍开始普及。其样式与清末旗装没有多少差别。但不久，袖口逐渐缩小，滚边也不如从前那样宽阔。至二十年代末，因受欧美服装的影响，旗袍的样式也有了明显的改变，如有的缩短长度、有的收紧腰身等等。到了三十年代初，旗袍已经盛行。当时的样式变化主要集中在领、袖及长度等方面。先流行高领，领子越高越时髦，即使在盛夏，薄如蝉翼的旗袍也必配上高耸及耳的硬领。渐而又流行低领，领子越低越“摩登”，当低到实在无法再低的时候，干脆就穿起没有领子的旗袍。袖子的变化也是如此，时儿流行长的，长过手腕 ；时儿流行短的，短至露肘。 民国男子服饰主要有马褂和长衫。用作礼服的马褂、长衫，其款式、质料、颜色及尺寸等都有一定的各式。如马褂，一般都用黑色丝麻棉毛制品为之，对襟窄袖，下长至腹，前襟钉钮扣五粒。长衫则用蓝色，其形制为大襟右衽，长至踝上二寸，袖长与马褂并齐。在下摆左右两侧开衩。用作便服的马褂、长衫，颜色可以不拘。 随着社会的不断发展，20世纪的中国服饰，旗袍、长衫、中山装、学生装、儿童装、西服、礼帽、遮阳帽、丝袜、高跟鞋、工农服、列宁服、布拉吉、军便服、夹克衫、喇叭裤、迷你裙、比基尼、职业装、朋克装、T恤衫等等，种种不同时期不同风格的服饰见证了时代的变迁。被视为中国典型服饰的旗袍，是20世纪20年代以后风行起来的，这种脱胎于清代满族女服的服装样式，在吸收了汉族女服工艺特点和西方女子服饰时尚的基础上演变，已经成为当今国际时装界不容忽视的时尚元素，被看作是中国服装民族交融和中西合璧的样板。 服装的进化史如同一部人民的解放史。解放肢体的束缚的同时，解放的还有心灵和思想。这种从完全封建到与外界少了很多隔阂的过程使中国的服饰文化走上了国际的潮流，充分展现了个性自由的窗口。这也是生活方式趋向国际化的表现之一。西方列强打开中国的“大门”中国经历了“洋务运动”，“辛亥革命”，直到新中国建立，改革开放，中国的服饰一直在探索的道路上前进，由封建到开放，一直走向成熟。 在今天，我们的服饰早已冲破了束缚，朝着多元化的方向发展，个性和自我的着装风格充斥着服装店，服装的浪潮已不再是由人为因素所能摆布和控制的了，我们的服装开始体现人性化、社会化的特点。 中国与国际的关系越密切，隔阂越少，服饰便越是国际化，甚至趋同于国际化了。但可喜的是，中国并非一味的向国际发展，而是将中国元素融入服饰的设计中，使中国服饰在国际上独树一帜并保留着中华民族的服饰独特魅力。
一、式样
中国传统服装的主体形式是前开型的大襟和对襟式样。前开衣最早起源于中国，形成于黄帝时代。中国服装有两种基本形制，即上衣下裳制和衣裳连属制，两种形制在中国几千年的历史中交叉使用，相容并蓄。女子穿上衣下裳式样的较多，男子多穿上下连属的袍衫。
西洋服装在样式上有一个演变过程，古希腊的服装是披裹式，古罗马到中世纪，服装的式样以披裹式的非成型类衣和前开式的半成型类衣为主。公元四世纪，日尔曼民族南下，日尔曼民族的四肢分离的体形型服装逐渐渗入到欧洲服装的基本样式中，从13世纪开始至今，体形型服装逐渐占据了主体地位，其基本形制是男子上衣下裤，女子为上下连属的裙装。
二、外形特征
中国传统服装的外形强调纵向感觉，自衣领部位开始自然下垂，不夸张肩部，常用下垂的线条、过手的长袖、筒形的袍裙、纵向的装饰等手法，使着装人体显得修长，特别是使四肢有拔长感。亚洲许多国家的服装都有类似特点。
清代服装相对来说是比较肥大的，袖口、下摆都有向外扩张之势。然而，清代妇女那高高的旗髻和几寸高的花盆底鞋，加上垂至脚面的旗袍，使旗人比历代妇女都显得修长。
服装外形的修长感是对东方人较为矮小的身材之弥补，在感官上产生视错觉，在比例上达到完美、和谐。自然修长的服式使男性显得清秀，使女性显得窈窕。同时，平顺的服装外形与中国人脸部较柔和的轮廓线条相称。
西洋古典服装的外形强调横向感觉，常采用横向扩张的肩部轮廓、各种硬领、轮状领、膨胀的袖型、庞大的裙撑、重叠的花边和花朵以及浆过的纱料和各部位的衬垫，使服装线条产生夸张和向外放射的效果。
西洋服装的外形特点与西方人热情奔放的气质、起伏明显的脸部轮廓以及比东方人高大挺拔的体型相适应。
三、结构特征
从结构特征看，中式服装采用中国传统的平面直线裁剪方法，无论袍、衫、襦、褂，通常只有袖底缝和侧摆相连的一条结构线，无起肩和袖窿部分，整件衣服可以平铺于地，结构简单舒展。
西方服装采用立体裁剪方法，立体裁剪方法视人体为多面体至少是四面体，细心对待人体从上到下、从前到后各个方面的凸凹起伏关系，利用打褶和省道处理等服装工艺手段，最终取得与三维人体相吻合的具有立体效果的服装。
有人说中式服装像平面的绘画，西洋服装像立体的雕塑，这种感觉大体是对的。中式服装表现两维效果，忽视侧面结构设计。西式服装强调三维效果，适合人体结构特点并适应人体运动规律，既合体又实用，因此，受到世界各国人们的普遍青睐。
四、局部结构特点
从服装的局部特点看，中式服装的斜交领、对开V领、直立领、衣服下摆两侧开衩、清代箭袍式的前后左右开四衩，以及衣服的对襟、大襟、一字襟、琵琶襟等，都是有东方特色的局部细节，常被设计师用作表现中国服装趣味的处理手法，其中中式立领和衣服下摆两侧开衩更为典型。
西洋服装的袒领和轮状褶领(像扇面一样环绕脖颈)运用较为广泛，轮状褶领连续的褶裥是用布料上浆后熨烫成形，有时需用细金属丝做支撑。服装造型喜用填充物衬垫或支撑，如垫肩、垫胸、垫袖、垫臀、裙撑等。由于西式服装不是连袖而是装袖，所以肩饰造型多样。袖子款式变化很多，如半腿袖、主教袖等。
五、装饰
从装饰特点看，由于中式服装是平面直线裁剪，表现二维效果，所以装饰也以二维效果为主，强调平面装饰。装饰手段是中国传统的镶、嵌、滚、盘、绣几大工艺。这些工艺的巧妙运用，使中式服装虽造型简练，但纹样色彩斑斓，美不胜收。
刺绣用于服装历史久远，发展到后来，甚至"衣必锦绣"。运用平面刺绣方法装饰服装表面空间，是中式服装设计的惯用手法，沿用至今。尤其是精妙绝伦的刺绣工艺与丝绸面料配合，使服装充满东方风韵，令人赞叹不已。
除刺绣外，镶、滚工艺在中式服装上运用也很多。例如清末，市井流行在衣缘处镶、滚装饰，女子衣缘越来越阔，从三镶三滚，五镶五滚，发展到"十八镶滚"。
西洋服装是立体构成设计，表现三维效果，所以装饰与整体结构造型相对应，强调立体感和空间感，装饰手段是借助各种立体物如穗饰花结、荷叶边、金银丝带、褶裥、切口等点缀服装表面。最初，花朵、花边等只是少量装饰服装表面，丰富表面效果。到了罗可可时期，某些礼服竟是用立体花堆砌而成。
西洋服装采用立体装饰有其精采之处：一是立体装饰与立体结构造型相呼应，天然谐调；二是装饰效果符合审美心理，因为凡是平铺直叙、一览无余的表面，容易引起人的单调感觉，而层次丰富、虚实搭配、重叠穿插的表面空间有耐人寻味的效果，易于激起观赏美感。
六、面料、色彩和图案
从服装面料看，中国最早使用的纺织品是葛布、苎麻布和大麻布。葛布是葛藤的茎皮纤维加工制成的。苎麻是我国特有的植物，欧洲人称之为"中国草"，大麻被称之为"汉麻"。中国享誉世界的服装面料是丝绸。养蚕、缫丝、织绸是我国先民对世界纺织服装发展作出的杰出贡献。中国人穿棉布较晚，棉花是从印度引进的，到元明之时，棉布才成为人们普遍穿着的衣料。
从服装色彩看，在上古时代，黑色被中国的先人认为是支配万物的天帝色彩，夏、商、周时天子的冕服为黑色。后来，随着封建集权专制的发展，人们把对天神(黑色)的崇拜转向对大地(黄色)的崇拜，所以形成了"黄为贵"的传统观念。黄色成为帝王的专用色，隐喻着统治者至高无上的地位。
传统服装色彩受阴阳五行影响，有青、红、黑、白、黄五色之说。青、红、黑、白、黄色被视为正色，其余颜色则为间色，正色在大多数朝代为上等社会专用，表示高贵。在民间，正色是人们衣着配色所喜爱和追求的颜色。
从配色方法看，高艳度、强对比是中国传统的配色方法。强烈的对比色在金、银、黑、白等中性色的缓冲配合下，使服装洋溢着富丽堂皇、浑朴大方的气氛。
中国民间对蓝色有传统喜爱，如蓝印花布、靛蓝蜡染布等。蓝色与黄种人的肤色相配，容易谐调，可产生柔和的色对比效果。
中式服装的图案纹样丰富多采，有飞禽走兽、四季花卉、山峦亭阁、几何纹样等，抽象、具象、夸张、写实等风格俱全，图案纹样不仅精美，而且具有丰富的内涵。
中式服装喜好运用图案表示吉祥的祝愿。从古至今，从高贵的绸缎到民间的印花布，吉祥纹样运用极为广泛。如龙凤呈祥、龙飞凤舞、九龙戏珠、蜥龙闹灵芝等纹图，不仅隐喻着图腾崇拜，而且抒发着"龙的传人"的情感。像鹤鹿同春、喜鹊登梅、凤穿牡丹、团鹤仙寿、福禄寿喜、连年有余、吉祥八宝等图案，反映了人民对美满生活的希望。另外，官服的图案重视标识作用，明清文官为飞禽图案，武官为走兽图案。皇帝的龙袍象征真龙天子，龙袍上的十二章纹图案各有寓意："日、月、星"取其照临；"山"取其稳重；"华虫"取其文丽；"火"取其光明；"藻"取其洁净；"粉米"取其滋养；"宗彝"取其忠孝；"黼"取其决断；"黻"取其明辨。
西洋服装的面料、色彩、图案的运用同东方传统存在差距。
西欧服装上的图案随着历史的变迁而不断变化。古代多流行花草纹样，意大利文艺复兴时期流行华丽的花卉图案，法国路易十五时期，受罗可可装饰风格的影响，流行表现S形或涡旋形的藤草和轻淡柔和的庭园花草纹样。近代，有影响的流行图案花样有野兽派的杜飞花样，以星系、宇宙为主题的迪斯科花样，利用几何错视原理设计的欧普图案，用计算机设计的电子图案等。
七、审美文化
东西方服装审美文化存在很多不同点。
西方文化起源于海洋文明，文化本能比较开放，易于融合外域服装文化。
中国文化起源于大陆文明，文化本能比较封闭，在服装上具有固执的"原体"意识，传统服装形制几千年来地位稳定，吸收异域服装相对困难。
西方文化善于表现矛盾、冲突，在服装构成上强调刺激、极端的形式，以突出个性为荣。
中国文化是和谐文化，强调均衡、对称、统一的服装造型方法，以规矩、平稳为最美。
西方文化是一种明喻文化，重视造型、线条、图案、色彩本身的客观化美感，以视觉舒适为第一。
中国文化是一种隐喻文化，艺术偏重抒情性，追求服装构成要素的精神寓意和文化品位。
西方文化崇尚人体美，重视展示人体的性差异，不忌讳表现性感。古典模式是表现女性的第二性征，如露颈、露肩、露背、半胸，以紧缩腰围和垫臀来表现女性胴体曲线。现代模式是以简约的形式表现人体的自然身形，以短露和紧身为现代时髦。
中国文化漠视"性"的存在，服装不表现人体曲线，不具备感官刺激要素，宽衣博带，遮掩人体，表现的是一种庄重、含蓄之美。
中式服装的美学特点，反映了中华民族的审美心态和文化征貌。中国人受儒道互补的美学思想影响，重视情理结合，以理节情，追求闲适、平淡、中庸，追求超出形体的精神意蕴。中式女装严密包裹人体，使人难窥其详，增加了神秘感。中式男装严整修长，洋溢着中和之美。皇帝的礼服，宽博繁复，辉煌壮观。皇帝的礼服不仅是权力的象征，也是中国人审美观的表现。
中国和西方服饰文化各具有丰富的内涵和鲜明的特色，她们都是人类祖先留下来的宝贵文化遗产，是世界文化宝库的瑰宝，我们应进行积极研究，在明辨的基础上继承发扬。
Abstract: Dress culture is a cultural phenomenon unique to human beings. As it has different aesthetic ideas, different dressing concepts and different dress etiquette in China and west, it forms Chinese and western dress culture of the different connotation and characteristics. This thesis is divided into four major sections. The first part describes the different features of Chinese and western dress and why people wear clothing. The second part describes cultural differences between Chinese and western clothing. The third part gives an analysis of Chinese and western dress culture. The last part describes Chinese and western dress aesthetic culture and dress concept. Based on the analysis, the thesis finally draws a conclusion. Chinese and western dress culture each has rich connotation and distinct characteristics, which are precious cultural legacy which is left by human ancestors and are the world culture heritage. At the same time, we treasure our own civilization of five thousand years instead of belittling ourselves. It is significant to promote and develop our unique costume culture. We are confident and make contributions to realizing the rejuvenation of our Chinese nation and enriching the clothing culture of the whole world. Key words: Chinese and western clothing; culture；differences；aesthetic culture and clothing concepts 摘要摘要摘要摘要::::服饰文化是人类特有的文化现象。由于中西方各民族的审美观念、着装理念和服饰礼仪的不同，从而形成了不同内涵、不同特色的中西方服饰文化。本文共分为四部分。第一部分主要介绍了中西服饰的不同特征以及为什么人要穿衣服，第二部分写中西方服饰的差异，第三部分写导致中西方服饰文化差异的原因，第四部分则写中西方服饰审美文化和着装理念。通过以上简单的论述，最后得出结论，中西方服饰文化各具有丰富的内涵和鲜明的特色，她们都是人类祖先留下来的宝贵文化遗产 ,是世界文化的瑰宝。与此同时,我们应该珍惜自己五千年的文明而不是贬低自己的文明。促进和发展我们独特的民族服饰文化具有重要的意义。为了实现我们中华民族的文化复兴和丰富整个世界的文化，让我们自信起来吧！ 关键词关键词关键词关键词::::中西服饰；文化；差异性；审美文化与着装理念Introduction Costume culture, carried by costume, is a respect of our physical and spiritual life and a mixture of our psychological activities like consciousness, emotion, idea and ideal. The rapid development of advanced technology makes multiculturalism stand out and also makes conflicts between China and the West increase. In that case, it becomes more and more important to recognize the similarities and differences of costume culture between China and the West. Nowadays, the whole world is, to some extent, dominated by the western costume culture, which has wound its way into the daily life of the whole world, together with technology, life style and values from the West. Quite popular in China, it’s nominally called “internationalization” or “globalization”. In recent years, the costume industry of China has developed swiftly. The “international” costume, featured by the western costume culture, has become a pretty important part of our daily life. However, as our economy takes off, international status rises and living standard improves, a wave of national costume culture resurgence is rising. Moreover, people from the West pay more and more attention to the giant dragon in the East——China. Western costume designers constantly introduce Chinese costume cultural elements to their latest designs. Those phenomena arouse a series of thoughts: what distinguishes Chinese costume culture from the western one? Are there any similarities between them? What kind of costume culture will we Chinese hold as the mainstream in the future, the so-called “international” western one, the Chinese one or the fusion of the two? To obtain the answers to these questions, we are supposed to study and contrast carefully the characteristics and developing processes of them, and then draw some regularity. To contrast the costume culture between China and the West, it is necessary for us to master a good knowledge of the Chinese and western costume cultural characteristics.Chapter 1 Chinese and western dress 1.1 The different features of Chinese and western dress China is known as “Xia” as it’s a land of propriety, and it’s also known as “Hua” with the beauty of its costume. (①《左传》p83) Our national costume is Hanfu. It originated in the Yanhuang era, formed in the Spring and Autumn Period and officially took form in Han Dynasty. That’s the reason why it’s called “Hanfu”. Since then, in spite of historical evolutions of all ages, their basic characteristics have never changed. Hanfu, on the whole, can be divided into four developing stages: Zhou Han Hanfu, Wei Jin Hanfu, Sui Tang Hanfu and Song Ming Hanfu. Zhou Han Hanfu was featured by dignity and simplicity, while Wei Jin Hanfu by chic and elegance, Sui Tang Hanfu by dignified, graceful, elegant and poised style. Hanfu in Song and Ming Dynasties epitomizes the characteristics of the past-simple, dignified, elegant, etc. In Qing Dynasty, Hanfu was forbidden by the government and disappeared from the land of China. The main features of Chinese clothing are focusing on the right collar’s overlap, the band deducted hidden, big sleeves, no buttons and using string binding, giving the impression of free and easy flowing. These characteristics are obviously different from those of other ethnic costumes. Hanfu is divided into uniform and common clothing. With strict standards, uniform is dressed on formal occasions while the common clothing, without long sleeves, is very convenient to people’s daily life. However, the western clothing is different form the Chinese clothing. The West belongs to Marine civilization, it emphasizes the subjective and objective separation and that we should rationally treat clothing, advocate releasing personality, stress dress effect and be good at showing beautiful the posture of the body. Besides, we use various clipping, color collocation means to perfect bodily curve and give a person with visual comfort in the modeling. A suit, also known as a business suit, comprises a collection of matching clothing consisting of: a coat﹙commonly known as a jacket﹚,a waistcoat﹙optional﹚﹙USA vest﹚for men, a pair of trousers﹙USA pants﹚, or for women, a shirt or trousers. A suit is generally accompanied by torment, a shirt and tie or for women, a blouse. 1.2 Why people wear clothingChinese people are concerned more about its social function of helping to rule a country well than that of keeping warm or decorating. It has a lot to do with ruling a country to regulate the dressing way of the common people. Nevertheless, the westerners pay more attention to its wealth value and function. Therefore, people put on clothing for functional and social reasons. 1.2.1 The functional reason The first use of clothing is to resist the cold and cover the body. Functions of clothing include providing the human body protection against extremes of climate (extreme heat, icy winters, and drenching storms) and protection against insects, noxious, chemicals, and contact with abrasive substances. In sum, clothing protects human beings against anything that might injure the naked, unprotected human body. 1.2.2 The social reason Clothing also delivers social messages to other humans. Social messages sent by clothing, accessories, and decorations can involve social status, occupation, ethnic and religious belief, marital status, cultural degree and sexual availability, etc. For example, only Roman citizens can wear “Toga” in Rome while dragon robe can only be dressed by the emperor in China.
你好，很高兴替你解答
首先中国服饰讲究的是天人和一，所以自古咱们的服饰都是流线型，讲究舒适，人与自然融合协调，而西方服饰讲究的是立体的造型，是外在的观感为主要的欣赏模式，所以你看到他们那种用鲸骨、铁丝做的胸衣，还有又圆又大的裙撑，可以为了这种多层次，复杂的穿衣模式，而长时间忍受着不洗澡。. 现在很多国内搞服装的朋友，喜欢到外国去看别人的潮流，其实是在看别人的形，其实很多外国的服饰买手，来得最多的是中国，他们主要看的是我们服饰上的神。
服饰文化是一种整体文化。它是指服装、饰物、穿着方式、装扮，包括发型、化妆在内的多种因素的有机整体。服饰文化是一个民族、一个国家文化素质的物化，是内在精神的外观，是社会风貌的显示。由于历史条件、生活方式、心理素质和 文化观念的差别，中西方的服饰文化有着较大的差别。中国传统服饰文化观念的特色1、善于表达形与色的含蓄朦朦胧胧,藏而不露,隐含寓意,给人以审美的感受。这种含蓄,有时通过款式展现, 有时也可通过造型、布局、色彩、线条等手段给人以整体和谐之美。2、注重精细的艺术手法和工艺表现大量采用刺绣、飘带、图案和其它装饰手法,表达丰富的想象,以浪漫主义情调达到现实主义的效果。3、注重气派稳重的氛围效果服装的整体配合给人以秩序和谐美感,严肃庄重,美观高雅,能起到烘托月之效,服饰文化与环境相配合,更具鲜明的时代感。4、注重服饰文化的民族性服饰文化是一个民族个性的重要标志之一。服饰作为一种民俗现象,具有鲜明的民族性。不同民族长期交往,服饰文化互相影响和渗透,甚至有意借鉴和模仿。但是中华民族有自己的审美趣味,伦理道德,因而有自己的着装规范。5、受中国传统文化的影响A、 注重营造和平统一的气氛孔子曰：“见人不可不饰,不饰无貌,无貌不敬,不敬无礼,无礼不立。”时过千年,在以孔孟之道为核心的大一统思想指导下,中国服饰也力求稳重、平静,有助于安宁、融洽和礼让之先的人际关系。B、“文质彬彬”——儒家对服饰的审美观文是指一个人服饰的美,质是指一个人资质的美。C、“披褐怀玉”一一道家对服饰的审美观“清水出芙蓉,天然去雕饰”，若不以论诗,而以论人,正可为道家对服饰的审美观。西方服饰文化观念的特色1、 崇尚人体美从古希腊时代至今，西方艺术包括服饰在内，常把讴歌和显示人体自然美当作无上的典型。因 此服饰在西方人的身上成了“副件”：女性通过裸露或挂丝尽显其形体之美,男性则更赤裸地表现肌肤的健康和力量的强大。2、 服装是为了吸引异性对自己的注意西方服饰通过对人体曲线和对某些敏感部位作裸露处理,最大限度地发挥服饰吸引力,给人以不可言状的美感,以此产生心理效应,使人迅速进入纯粹的审美境界。3、突 出表现个性西方人着装重在表现自我,寻求对平衡的突破和片面性的掘进,自我设计、自我表现、自我创造而别具一格；通过着装充分表明自我的理想境界和各种观念,借以标明自我。4、 追求感官刺激西方服饰时刻使欣赏者能顿发性感,形成不寻常的感官剌激。设计大师通过精心设计,独特的色彩搭配组合和特殊的线条分割,充分体现性的心理、生理特征。因此在西方,性感明显的服饰比比皆是。
一、 差异的主要表现
1、色彩
一个民族对颜色的喜好从某种意义上反映了这个民族潜意识的性格特征。在夏、商、周时，黑色被中国的先人认为是支配万物的天帝色彩。后来人们把对天神(黑色) 的崇拜转向对大(黄色) 的崇拜,所以形成“黄为贵”的传统观念。
传统服装色彩受阴阳五行影响,有青、红、黑、白、黄五色之说,它们被称为正色,其他颜色为间色。正色在大多数朝代为上等社会专用,表示高贵。
在民间,正色也是人们衣着配色所喜爱和追求的颜色。我国古代封建等级制度森严，这一点也表现在服装上:先开始于民间,一旦被皇家贵族看中,就禁止民间使用,否则,轻者杀身,重者株连九族；如果一种服装的色彩开始是皇家贵族所穿,后来不穿了,成为一般民间服装,则这种服装的色彩立即被视为卑贱的色彩。
而在西方,在罗马时代最流行的色彩是白色和紫色。白色象征纯洁、正直、神圣，也代表魅力。这也是西方人喜欢选择白色作为婚纱礼服的原因。人们也曾对服饰上充满宗教气氛的色彩也十分向往。欧洲文艺复兴以来,随着服饰奢华程度的升级,明亮的色彩受到人们的欢迎。
法国人钟情于丁香色和蔷薇色,也很迷恋含蓄的天蓝和圣洁的白色;西班牙人却崇尚高雅的玫瑰红和灰色调;在英国,黑色有意想不到的复杂及强烈感，因为黑色被认为是神秘、高贵的色彩,但有时也被用于沉默、不吉利或悲哀的丧服。
2、外形
从外形特征上来讲,中国传统服装的外形强调纵向感觉,常用下垂的线条、过手的长袖和筒形的袍裙。中国传统服装形式以前开型的大襟和对襟式样为主。上衣下裳制和衣裳连属制为中国服装的两种基本形制，两种形制在中国几千年的历史中交叉使用，相容并蓄。
西洋服装在样式上有一个演变过程，由古希腊时的披裹式到中世纪的以披裹式的非成型类衣和前开式的半成型类衣为主。中国传统服装的外形自衣领部位开始自然下垂，不夸张肩部，常用下垂的线条、过手的长袖、筒形的袍裙强调纵向感觉，使着装人体显得修长。
而西洋古典服装的外形强调横向感觉，常采用横向扩张的肩部轮廓、各种硬领、轮状领、膨胀的袖型、庞大的裙撑、重叠的花边和花朵以及浆过的纱料和各部位的衬垫，使服装线条产生夸张和向外放射的效果。
而且从结构特征看，无论袍、衫、襦、褂，通常只有袖底缝和侧摆相连的一条结构线。中式服装采用中国传统的平面直线裁剪方法，无起肩和袖窿部分，整件衣服可以平铺于地，结构简单舒展。
西方服装为了最终取得与三维人体相吻合的具有立体效果，多采用立体裁剪方法，立体裁剪方法视人体为多面体至少是四面体，细心对待人体从上到下、从前到后各个方面的凸凹起伏关系，利用打褶和省道处理等服装工艺手段。
3、图案
中西服饰在对图案的选择上也呈现五花八门之势。从古到今,从高贵绸缎到民间印花布,吉祥图样运用极为广泛。人们都喜欢运用各种图案来隐喻对图腾崇拜，表达对美满生活的希望，如龙凤呈祥、九龙戏珠、喜鹊登梅等图样。这表明中式服装喜好运用图案表示吉祥的祝愿。
西欧服装上的图案随着历史的变迁而不断变化。
古代多流行花草放样,意大利文艺复兴时期流行华丽的花卉图案,法国路易十五时期,受洛可可装饰风格的影响,流行表现S形或旋涡形的藤草和轻淡柔和的庭院花草放样。野兽派的杜飞花样、利用几何绪视原理设计的欧普图案等则是近代流行的图案花样。
上：中国服饰
下：西方服饰
中国服饰的历史源远流长，从原始社会、夏商周、春秋战国、秦汉、魏晋南北朝、隋唐、宋辽夏金元、明、清，到近现代，都以鲜明特色为世界所瞩目，主要以汉服为主，另外还有胡服、旗装等。
“西方”，沿用了关于区域范畴的习惯称谓，与亚洲一带的“东方”相对。西方服装史，即是以西欧国家为主，上溯至美索不达米亚和埃及的服装发展史。西方服装体现出与东方服装相迥异的风格，特别是其中所蕴含的文化元素，代表了人类服装史的一个重要组成部分。
扩展资料：
二、导致中西方服饰差异的原因分析
1、中西服饰文化的差异
中国几千年来的历史进程中，我们的祖先创造了底蕴深厚的宽衣服饰文化，形成了特有的美学与哲学观念，与西方截然不同。
西方则强调主观世界与客观世界分离，明确提出主观为我，客观为物，“物”与“我”是相对立的，不容混淆的，致使他们习惯于理性观察世界和探讨规律，并形成一种追求自然法则以获得真理的作法。因而，表现出以一种理性的或科学性的态度对待服饰。
2、中西方美学观念的差异
中国服饰美学观念表现在女装造型上的是意象的结构。
这种平面的直线与曲线的裁剪方法使衣服适体又不完全合体，不裸露张扬也不尽力束缚，在遮体的隐约之中含蓄地显现了流畅婉约，温情流动的人体曲线美，造型意识是节奏化的，让视点随着自己的心愿移动，使生命之体在宽衣的帖体与离体之间流露气韵。
我国传统的服装空间造型是借“虚与实”、“明与暗”的节奏表达出来。西方的服装空间意识是在中世纪以后形成的，反映了西方人对空间的探求心理，渴望占据更多的空间，于是增大服装造型的体积，将服装视为扩大自我肉体的一种工具。
这种夸张的服装造型使人与自然整体之间，人与人的个体之间保持着一定的距离，反映了西方人的宇宙观，也反映了人与自然万物、心灵与环境、主观与客观的对立性。由于东方与西方不同的哲学美学观念在服装上创造了不同的基本造型，体现了不同的精神气韵。
3、中西服饰文化中的着装理念的差异
在中国传统的社会及家庭教育中，服装行为规范被看作是修身的一个重要内容，并长期影响着中国人的着装生活。人们在着装上注重伦理内容，用服装掩盖人体，竭力超越人体的局限，以达到儒家的道德要求。服装美注重表现人的精神、气质、神韵之美，并不强调形体。
西方服装文化属于多元化的范畴，其中最显著的特点是服装突出个性，显示个性。
参考资料来源：百度百科-中国服饰 （中国历代服饰）
参考资料来源：百度百科-西方服装史
Abstract: Dress culture is a cultural phenomenon unique to human beings. As it has different aesthetic ideas, different dressing concepts and different dress etiquette in China and west, it forms Chinese and western dress culture of the different connotation and characteristics. This thesis is divided into four major sections. The first part describes the different features of Chinese and western dress and why people wear clothing. The second part describes cultural differences between Chinese and western clothing. The third part gives an analysis of Chinese and western dress culture. The last part describes Chinese and western dress aesthetic culture and dress concept. Based on the analysis, the thesis finally draws a conclusion. Chinese and western dress culture each has rich connotation and distinct characteristics, which are precious cultural legacy which is left by human ancestors and are the world culture heritage. At the same time, we treasure our own civilization of five thousand years instead of belittling ourselves. It is significant to promote and develop our unique costume culture. We are confident and make contributions to realizing the rejuvenation of our Chinese nation and enriching the clothing culture of the whole world. Key words: Chinese and western clothing; culture；differences；aesthetic culture and clothing concepts 摘要摘要摘要摘要::::服饰文化是人类特有的文化现象。由于中西方各民族的审美观念、着装理念和服饰礼仪的不同，从而形成了不同内涵、不同特色的中西方服饰文化。本文共分为四部分。第一部分主要介绍了中西服饰的不同特征以及为什么人要穿衣服，第二部分写中西方服饰的差异，第三部分写导致中西方服饰文化差异的原因，第四部分则写中西方服饰审美文化和着装理念。通过以上简单的论述，最后得出结论，中西方服饰文化各具有丰富的内涵和鲜明的特色，她们都是人类祖先留下来的宝贵文化遗产 ,是世界文化的瑰宝。与此同时,我们应该珍惜自己五千年的文明而不是贬低自己的文明。促进和发展我们独特的民族服饰文化具有重要的意义。为了实现我们中华民族的文化复兴和丰富整个世界的文化，让我们自信起来吧！ 关键词关键词关键词关键词::::中西服饰；文化；差异性；审美文化与着装理念Introduction Costume culture, carried by costume, is a respect of our physical and spiritual life and a mixture of our psychological activities like consciousness, emotion, idea and ideal. The rapid development of advanced technology makes multiculturalism stand out and also makes conflicts between China and the West increase. In that case, it becomes more and more important to recognize the similarities and differences of costume culture between China and the West. Nowadays, the whole world is, to some extent, dominated by the western costume culture, which has wound its way into the daily life of the whole world, together with technology, life style and values from the West. Quite popular in China, it’s nominally called “internationalization” or “globalization”. In recent years, the costume industry of China has developed swiftly. The “international” costume, featured by the western costume culture, has become a pretty important part of our daily life. However, as our economy takes off, international status rises and living standard improves, a wave of national costume culture resurgence is rising. Moreover, people from the West pay more and more attention to the giant dragon in the East——China. Western costume designers constantly introduce Chinese costume cultural elements to their latest designs. Those phenomena arouse a series of thoughts: what distinguishes Chinese costume culture from the western one? Are there any similarities between them? What kind of costume culture will we Chinese hold as the mainstream in the future, the so-called “international” western one, the Chinese one or the fusion of the two? To obtain the answers to these questions, we are supposed to study and contrast carefully the characteristics and developing processes of them, and then draw some regularity. To contrast the costume culture between China and the West, it is necessary for us to master a good knowledge of the Chinese and western costume cultural characteristics.Chapter 1 Chinese and western dress 1.1 The different features of Chinese and western dress China is known as “Xia” as it’s a land of propriety, and it’s also known as “Hua” with the beauty of its costume. (①《左传》p83) Our national costume is Hanfu. It originated in the Yanhuang era, formed in the Spring and Autumn Period and officially took form in Han Dynasty. That’s the reason why it’s called “Hanfu”. Since then, in spite of historical evolutions of all ages, their basic characteristics have never changed. Hanfu, on the whole, can be divided into four developing stages: Zhou Han Hanfu, Wei Jin Hanfu, Sui Tang Hanfu and Song Ming Hanfu. Zhou Han Hanfu was featured by dignity and simplicity, while Wei Jin Hanfu by chic and elegance, Sui Tang Hanfu by dignified, graceful, elegant and poised style. Hanfu in Song and Ming Dynasties epitomizes the characteristics of the past-simple, dignified, elegant, etc. In Qing Dynasty, Hanfu was forbidden by the government and disappeared from the land of China. The main features of Chinese clothing are focusing on the right collar’s overlap, the band deducted hidden, big sleeves, no buttons and using string binding, giving the impression of free and easy flowing. These characteristics are obviously different from those of other ethnic costumes. Hanfu is divided into uniform and common clothing. With strict standards, uniform is dressed on formal occasions while the common clothing, without long sleeves, is very convenient to people’s daily life. However, the western clothing is different form the Chinese clothing. The West belongs to Marine civilization, it emphasizes the subjective and objective separation and that we should rationally treat clothing, advocate releasing personality, stress dress effect and be good at showing beautiful the posture of the body. Besides, we use various clipping, color collocation means to perfect bodily curve and give a person with visual comfort in the modeling. A suit, also known as a business suit, comprises a collection of matching clothing consisting of: a coat﹙commonly known as a jacket﹚,a waistcoat﹙optional﹚﹙USA vest﹚for men, a pair of trousers﹙USA pants﹚, or for women, a shirt or trousers. A suit is generally accompanied by torment, a shirt and tie or for women, a blouse. 1.2 Why people wear clothingChinese people are concerned more about its social function of helping to rule a country well than that of keeping warm or decorating. It has a lot to do with ruling a country to regulate the dressing way of the common people. Nevertheless, the westerners pay more attention to its wealth value and function. Therefore, people put on clothing for functional and social reasons. 1.2.1 The functional reason The first use of clothing is to resist the cold and cover the body. Functions of clothing include providing the human body protection against extremes of climate (extreme heat, icy winters, and drenching storms) and protection against insects, noxious, chemicals, and contact with abrasive substances. In sum, clothing protects human beings against anything that might injure the naked, unprotected human body. 1.2.2 The social reason Clothing also delivers social messages to other humans. Social messages sent by clothing, accessories, and decorations can involve social status, occupation, ethnic and religious belief, marital status, cultural degree and sexual availability, etc. For example, only Roman citizens can wear “Toga” in Rome while dragon robe can only be dressed by the emperor in China.
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隐喻的中西方文化差异Abstract: Metaphor is not only a linguistic phenomenon but also a way of thinking, which is one of the basic methods for human survival and cognition. It is rooted in language, thought and culture. Through the analysis and comparison of the use and concept of metaphor in different countries, we find that its universality and commonality of the metaphor as a basic human cognitive activities. However, metaphor in different languages reflects a different way of thinking and behavior and different cultural patterns. Owing to the different two modes of thinking and culture, there are some differences in understanding and formation that can not be ignored. Therefore, this paper will discuss the questions above.Keywords: metaphor, cross-cultural differences, translation. 1. Preamble Metaphor is a common phenomenon, a large number of people use metaphor to express his feelings and ideas. British scientists rhetoric Richards (IARichards) once said, "We have day-to-day in almost every conversation in three sentences may be a metaphor." According to statistics, life around the use of 4,700,000 new metaphor, 2,140,000 stereotypes of metaphor. Research in recent years, there is a great metaphor. This article introduced in the definition of metaphor on the basis of summing up the similarities and differences between Chinese and Western metaphor, and that its culture, precisely because of the prevalence of metaphor, how to translate metaphor has become a very important issue in the latter part of the article is aimed at The translation of metaphor put forward a translation of the three strategies. This paper studies aimed at trying to comparative analysis of English and Chinese in a large number of day-to-day language of metaphor to express, find out the differences and similarities, in order to be able to accurately translate the article in good metaphor to explore a little. This article is about the metaphor from the point of view to explore the differences in the way Thinking allows us to a deeper understanding of language, culture, the relationship between thinking and can more clearly understand the different ethnic language, culture, way of thinking, and so on On the nature of translation. 2. Metaphors in Chinese and Western studies In 1980, Lakoff & Johnson (George Lakoff & Mark Johnson) made a "living metaphor" (Metaphors We Live By) of the book, a modern metaphor to open a new chapter in the school. Domestic academia on the "metaphor" This is also a review of the system, such as Lin Wu's book "Study abroad metaphor Looking at the" beam-setting "metaphor research," Li of China and India "The main subjects Metaphor" and so on. However, the Chinese metaphor for the academic study of rare. "Chinese scholars on the study of metaphor, I am afraid the real contribution should be through the metaphor of the Chinese characteristics of research and study, through the metaphor of the Chinese and other languages in the comparative study of metaphor, metaphor for the establishment of a more general theory of the strong, and even unique The basis. "Lin Wu in the book" metaphor of the basic research the status quo, and the focus of the trend "in the main text, put forward a model of cultural metaphors with the relationship:" The language of metaphor is the emergence of expression into the system, which not only reflects the psychological Structure, but also reflect the different cultural models also play a role. " 2.1 metaphor in the relationship between Chinese and Western cultures 2.1.1 relationship Correspond to (corresponding) refers to the relationship between the two languages, English and Chinese in the meaning and metaphor in the use of the same meaning in the culture and image, and so on and-one mapping. This is because the survival of mankind itself, as well as all the external conditions, including the geographical environment, climate change, and the whole of human society and cultural background are certain there is a common, which formed a common humanity of their own and the outside world on many issues. In the "angry" mood, the English are angry that physiological responses, such as: grind one's teeth. (Teeth), bare one's teeth. (Ziyaliezui) an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth. (an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth), reflecting the Chinese culture on the basis of common experience. 2.1.2 non-correspondence English-Chinese metaphor, after all, rooted in two different languages on the soil, resulting in very different cultural backgrounds, fully corresponds to the few metaphors, the vast majority do not have common cultural identity in order to form the corresponding non-(non-corresponding ) Relations. Non-relationship metaphor can be roughly divided into three categories: 2.1.2.1 Vehicle counterpart, Yu Yi does not correspond to English and Chinese in some cases there is the same as a metaphor, but in their own language and culture in the meaning of the metaphor means is different, even different. Peacock in the Chinese culture is auspicious, a symbol of beauty, especially the Dai people to express jumped Pavaner desire to better their own. If the Chinese people will be likened to a peacock, it means that beautiful light. However, in English, peacock (Peacock) is a symbol of pride, often interpreted as arrogance, love to show off. For example, They were eager to take the young peacock down a peg. (They want to pressure a pressure that the arrogant young guy's momentum). 2.1.2.2 counterpart Yu Yi, the vehicle does not correspond to English-Chinese two nations due to their differences, from different angles to look at things the same, it will be a different analogy. As a result both English and Chinese language there is a different vehicle, but Yu was referring to was basically the same as the meaning of the case, that is the same kind of non-correspondence. Such as: a person described as the hearts of anxious, restless, Chinese is "ants on the hot pan" and English is "a cat on the bricks". There are similar: To kick down the ladder. Guohechaiqiao. 2.1.2.3 Yu Yu Yi and do not correspond to Some of the metaphors Yu-Yu has a meaning and it refers to the language and culture are closely related, in another culture often can not find corresponding Yu and Yu Yi, which resulted in a culture known as the default Phenomenon. For example: in English "my rib" I am referring to Yu's wife, it comes from the "Bible" story, that is, Adam (Adam)'s wife Eve (Eve) God is with a piece of Adam's rib made. The Chinese did not, "the Bible" cultural background, and there was no analogy with rib habit, so the formation of a corresponding gap. Similarly, "ugly duckling" (Ugly Duckling) refers to the metaphor will get ahead of Little, "early bird" refers to the diligent Yu, in the words into Chinese language, culture, as a result of the default, can not find a corresponding relationship between metaphor . 2.2 Chinese and Western cultures in the common metaphor Metaphor and culture to a large extent, human beings have a common understanding, rooted in the people's own day-to-day experience. In this connection, often between different ethnic groups are the same. Both English and Chinese language in a lot of abstract thinking that the metaphorical expression is the same. For example: the human child in the period to form a position on the concept of input in that direction in the form of many of them easily understood, including the position expressed by metaphor, which has become a fixed pattern of thinking. For example: The term direction (up, down) to describe people's social status, physical, emotional, and other abstract concepts to the case when the good is up; Sad is down. We Chinese are also not difficult to find a similar sentence: "Gas Prices "," enhance the social status "and" vision "and" depressed. " Since the objective laws of nature with the relative unity of different cultures to understand the nature of the course is similar to the cognitive experience. 2.3 in the metaphor of the difference between Chinese and Western cultures As the English-Chinese geographical and cultural differences, living in two different cultures in practice there are a lot of differences, and different life experiences and let people understand the objective world, a different language carries different nationalities Cultural characteristics and cultural information. Understanding of metaphor is not out of socio-cultural backgrounds. For example, social and cultural impact of the color words is deep-rooted, some color words in different cultures in an entirely different meaning, has a distinctive feature of our national culture. Such as: English, said in green "inexperienced" and "shallow knowledge", such as: "a green hand", "I was very green when I started working there." The Chinese like to express the meaning of the word is "yellow" Such as: "Huangmaoyatou" and "flower girl". Cultural background knowledge is the metaphor to create a rich source of thinking, as the Eastern and Western cultures are different, metaphors in English and Chinese applications there are also significant differences. 2.4 The metaphor of the cross-cultural differences between Chinese and Western influence Language is a cultural change in the development of the complex, subject to political, economic, historical, environmental and other factors. Chinese and Western styles are different, but in many ways to infiltrate interaction and integration, language differences and cultural metaphor for the inevitable impact is complex and diverse. 2.4.1 metaphorical expression of cultural conflict Different nationalities in the world to observe a different perspective and ideas, different cultures there are a lot of conflict or inconsistency metaphor. If the animal metaphors, in English Long (dragon) is a kind of evil, will belch out smoke monster. "Bible", the dragon is the devil, is a symbol of evil and terror, there is a terrible vicious meaning. The Chinese dragon is in power, the auspicious symbol of Chinese traditional culture, the Chinese have "Wangzichenglong", "descendants of the Dragon." The same analogy in different cultures, different meaning, of two cultures "Dragon" to give a different connotation. 2.4.2 differences in living conditions caused by differences in metaphor In English is a lot of metaphor and marine-related, such as: all at sea (at a loss what to do); drink like a fish (drinking cow); fish in the air (Shuizhonglaoyue); give up the ship (give up). In Chinese, there are a lot of the horse or cattle pose a metaphor, such as: "a willing ox" (a willing horse) Gan means to serve the community; "old ox" (a working horse) refers to the hard work; "bragging "(Talk horse), and so on. This is due to different geographical location and natural environment caused by different cultural metaphor. Britain is an island, ultimately, dependent on the sea, and China is a large agricultural country, farming culture deeply feudal society. 2.4.3 different religious and cultural differences arising from the metaphor Religious culture of human culture is an important part of it by referring to the nation's religious beliefs, such as the formation of the sense of culture, "the Bible" in the story, with its language and meaning has become a feature of daily life in the West in terms of . For example, power of the keys (the keys to the kingdom of heaven; the rights of the Pope), in the right church, but in the wrong pew (in general is right, but not the details), and so on. Chinese culture and Buddhism, Taoism and more affected by the impact of Confucianism, the Chinese, there are a lot of related argot. "Jiehuaxianfo"; "临时抱佛脚"; "做一天和尚撞一天钟" and so on. It is due to the diversity of culture, resulting in the differences between English and Chinese metaphor. This difference to the cross-cultural communication has brought the impact. As a foreign language students, do not understand the difference between metaphor and language will make mistakes, sometimes mistakenly made good as pleasant, caused by either one or both of the conversation unpleasant; also sometimes mocked as a praise. When a native language other operators do not understand the language contained in the cultural differences, it is often difficult for such language to accurately convey the meaning of the understanding, difficulty to the cross-cultural exchange. 3. Metaphor of the three methods of translation The translation of metaphor not only accurately and effectively convey the original language, but also loyal, accessible, complete reproduction of the original language and cultural connotation and significance. But in the West because of cultural differences and different, so the translation of metaphor in English on the need to consider not only its literal sense, and so on, but also in the West should pay attention to their cultural differences. American Eugene Nida said: "Translation is the exchange between the two cultures. The real success of the translation, even more familiar with the two cultures is more important to master two languages. Because only in terms of its role in the culture In the background will only be meaningful. "Therefore, the translation of metaphor to combining Chinese and Western cultures, and cultural backgrounds to leave the translation, can not be achieved between the two languages of the real exchange. 3.1 Literal Translation The so-called "literal" is asked in the language when conditions permit, in the translation to maintain the original content, but also to maintain the original form, in particular, to maintain the original metaphor, the image of the nation, and other local color. In the literal translation method to maintain the original expression of the culture and at the same time, target enriched the vocabulary and expression, such as: "a Pandora's box" (Pandora's Box); "chain reaction" (chain reaction). In the original text and asked the information contained in the same culture, we should adopt the literal translation method. (1) You are my sunshine, my only sunshine. : You are my sun, my only sunshine. In Chinese and English, the sun is warm, beautiful, in both languages, they disseminate information on culture are the same. As a rule, and asked in the original text in the form of grammatical structure, similar to the style or color on basically the same, the law should adopt the literal translation. (1) He is another Shylock. : He is also a Shylock. (Note: Shakespeare's Shylock is "The Merchant of Venice" in a very harsh mean business People. ) (2) To carry coals to Newcastle. : Coal to Newcastle. (Note: "Newcastle" is a British coal, coal is superfluous here.) 4. Conclusion Metaphor as a way to figures of speech or skills, a unique feature of grammar, which features make the sentence more flexible and constructive, but the United States. Is a metaphor to express more complex ideas and things, a powerful tool. Wherever and whenever people in their daily lives are often used metaphor. As Mr. Lin Zhuang said: "The metaphor is no longer expanding his knowledge and understanding of a passive process. To help us in the form of new knowledge, the metaphor has played an active role so that we can better a better understanding of the objective world." In English and Chinese Metaphorical significance of the difference is due to cultural differences between East and West, that mode of thinking, moral values and sense of difference. However, different cultural impact of what is the concept of metaphor, it is still a need to examine and address the problem. At the same time, in the metaphor of the process of translation must pay special attention to cultural differences. The best translation is to be able to accurately reflect the true meaning of the author, as well as its cultural and stylistic characteristics of the translation, that is, the translation of metaphor to make as much as possible the original language and to achieve the target language culture, and so on.
服饰文化是一种整体文化。它是指服装、饰物、穿着方式、装扮，包括发型、化妆在内的多种因素的有机整体。服饰文化是一个民族、一个国家文化素质的物化，是内在精神的外观，是社会风貌的显示。由于历史条件、生活方式、心理素质和 文化观念的差别，中西方的服饰文化有着较大的差别。中国传统服饰文化观念的特色1、善于表达形与色的含蓄朦朦胧胧,藏而不露,隐含寓意,给人以审美的感受。这种含蓄,有时通过款式展现, 有时也可通过造型、布局、色彩、线条等手段给人以整体和谐之美。2、注重精细的艺术手法和工艺表现大量采用刺绣、飘带、图案和其它装饰手法,表达丰富的想象,以浪漫主义情调达到现实主义的效果。3、注重气派稳重的氛围效果服装的整体配合给人以秩序和谐美感,严肃庄重,美观高雅,能起到烘托月之效,服饰文化与环境相配合,更具鲜明的时代感。4、注重服饰文化的民族性服饰文化是一个民族个性的重要标志之一。服饰作为一种民俗现象,具有鲜明的民族性。不同民族长期交往,服饰文化互相影响和渗透,甚至有意借鉴和模仿。但是中华民族有自己的审美趣味,伦理道德,因而有自己的着装规范。5、受中国传统文化的影响A、 注重营造和平统一的气氛孔子曰：“见人不可不饰,不饰无貌,无貌不敬,不敬无礼,无礼不立。”时过千年,在以孔孟之道为核心的大一统思想指导下,中国服饰也力求稳重、平静,有助于安宁、融洽和礼让之先的人际关系。B、“文质彬彬”——儒家对服饰的审美观文是指一个人服饰的美,质是指一个人资质的美。C、“披褐怀玉”一一道家对服饰的审美观“清水出芙蓉,天然去雕饰”，若不以论诗,而以论人,正可为道家对服饰的审美观。西方服饰文化观念的特色1、 崇尚人体美从古希腊时代至今，西方艺术包括服饰在内，常把讴歌和显示人体自然美当作无上的典型。因 此服饰在西方人的身上成了“副件”：女性通过裸露或挂丝尽显其形体之美,男性则更赤裸地表现肌肤的健康和力量的强大。2、 服装是为了吸引异性对自己的注意西方服饰通过对人体曲线和对某些敏感部位作裸露处理,最大限度地发挥服饰吸引力,给人以不可言状的美感,以此产生心理效应,使人迅速进入纯粹的审美境界。3、突 出表现个性西方人着装重在表现自我,寻求对平衡的突破和片面性的掘进,自我设计、自我表现、自我创造而别具一格；通过着装充分表明自我的理想境界和各种观念,借以标明自我。4、 追求感官刺激西方服饰时刻使欣赏者能顿发性感,形成不寻常的感官剌激。设计大师通过精心设计,独特的色彩搭配组合和特殊的线条分割,充分体现性的心理、生理特征。因此在西方,性感明显的服饰比比皆是。
1、衣服颜色的选择有所不同
自古以来，中国就有一种倡导红色的民族心理。在中国服饰文化中，红色是最吉祥，最节日，最昂贵的颜色。在古罗马时期，西方服饰以白色意义建立，纯粹和紫色象征着高贵的色彩偏好，这意味着注重赋予色彩一定的情感意义。
2、服装特征的差异
与中国相比，西方服装的色彩更具个性，主要体现在突厥人的性别人格和自我个性。性别人格主要表现在男性要穿平静的颜色，而女性则应穿着色彩斑斓的礼服。自我个性主要表现在“三不”：无论性别，无论季节，不论年龄。
3、衣服结构的差异
中式服装结构是整体扁平型，强调立体空间的效果，服装直而松散。西式服装结构分为立体，强调立体效果，服装更贴切。
扩展资料
导致中西方服饰差异的原因分析
1、中西服饰文化的差异
中国几千年来的历史进程中，我们的祖先创造了底蕴深厚的宽衣服饰文化，形成了特有的美学与哲学观念，与西方截然不同。
西方则强调主观世界与客观世界分离，明确提出主观为我，客观为物，“物”与“我”是相对立的，不容混淆的，致使他们习惯于理性观察世界和探讨规律，并形成一种追求自然法则以获得真理的作法。因而，表现出以一种理性的或科学性的态度对待服饰。
2、中西方美学观念的差异
中国服饰美学观念表现在女装造型上的是意象的结构。
这种平面的直线与曲线的裁剪方法使衣服适体又不完全合体，不裸露张扬也不尽力束缚，在遮体的隐约之中含蓄地显现了流畅婉约，温情流动的人体曲线美，造型意识是节奏化的，让视点随着自己的心愿移动，使生命之体在宽衣的帖体与离体之间流露气韵。
我国传统的服装空间造型是借“虚与实”、“明与暗”的节奏表达出来。西方的服装空间意识是在中世纪以后形成的，反映了西方人对空间的探求心理，渴望占据更多的空间，于是增大服装造型的体积，将服装视为扩大自我肉体的一种工具。
这种夸张的服装造型使人与自然整体之间，人与人的个体之间保持着一定的距离，反映了西方人的宇宙观，也反映了人与自然万物、心灵与环境、主观与客观的对立性。由于东方与西方不同的哲学美学观念在服装上创造了不同的基本造型，体现了不同的精神气韵。
参考资料来源：百度百科-中国服饰
参考资料来源：百度百科-西方服装史
一、 差异的主要表现
1、色彩
一个民族对颜色的喜好从某种意义上反映了这个民族潜意识的性格特征。在夏、商、周时，黑色被中国的先人认为是支配万物的天帝色彩。后来人们把对天神(黑色) 的崇拜转向对大(黄色) 的崇拜,所以形成“黄为贵”的传统观念。
传统服装色彩受阴阳五行影响,有青、红、黑、白、黄五色之说,它们被称为正色,其他颜色为间色。正色在大多数朝代为上等社会专用,表示高贵。
在民间,正色也是人们衣着配色所喜爱和追求的颜色。我国古代封建等级制度森严，这一点也表现在服装上:先开始于民间,一旦被皇家贵族看中,就禁止民间使用,否则,轻者杀身,重者株连九族；如果一种服装的色彩开始是皇家贵族所穿,后来不穿了,成为一般民间服装,则这种服装的色彩立即被视为卑贱的色彩。
而在西方,在罗马时代最流行的色彩是白色和紫色。白色象征纯洁、正直、神圣，也代表魅力。这也是西方人喜欢选择白色作为婚纱礼服的原因。人们也曾对服饰上充满宗教气氛的色彩也十分向往。欧洲文艺复兴以来,随着服饰奢华程度的升级,明亮的色彩受到人们的欢迎。
法国人钟情于丁香色和蔷薇色,也很迷恋含蓄的天蓝和圣洁的白色;西班牙人却崇尚高雅的玫瑰红和灰色调;在英国,黑色有意想不到的复杂及强烈感，因为黑色被认为是神秘、高贵的色彩,但有时也被用于沉默、不吉利或悲哀的丧服。
2、外形
从外形特征上来讲,中国传统服装的外形强调纵向感觉,常用下垂的线条、过手的长袖和筒形的袍裙。中国传统服装形式以前开型的大襟和对襟式样为主。上衣下裳制和衣裳连属制为中国服装的两种基本形制，两种形制在中国几千年的历史中交叉使用，相容并蓄。
西洋服装在样式上有一个演变过程，由古希腊时的披裹式到中世纪的以披裹式的非成型类衣和前开式的半成型类衣为主。中国传统服装的外形自衣领部位开始自然下垂，不夸张肩部，常用下垂的线条、过手的长袖、筒形的袍裙强调纵向感觉，使着装人体显得修长。
而西洋古典服装的外形强调横向感觉，常采用横向扩张的肩部轮廓、各种硬领、轮状领、膨胀的袖型、庞大的裙撑、重叠的花边和花朵以及浆过的纱料和各部位的衬垫，使服装线条产生夸张和向外放射的效果。
而且从结构特征看，无论袍、衫、襦、褂，通常只有袖底缝和侧摆相连的一条结构线。中式服装采用中国传统的平面直线裁剪方法，无起肩和袖窿部分，整件衣服可以平铺于地，结构简单舒展。
西方服装为了最终取得与三维人体相吻合的具有立体效果，多采用立体裁剪方法，立体裁剪方法视人体为多面体至少是四面体，细心对待人体从上到下、从前到后各个方面的凸凹起伏关系，利用打褶和省道处理等服装工艺手段。
3、图案
中西服饰在对图案的选择上也呈现五花八门之势。从古到今,从高贵绸缎到民间印花布,吉祥图样运用极为广泛。人们都喜欢运用各种图案来隐喻对图腾崇拜，表达对美满生活的希望，如龙凤呈祥、九龙戏珠、喜鹊登梅等图样。这表明中式服装喜好运用图案表示吉祥的祝愿。
西欧服装上的图案随着历史的变迁而不断变化。
古代多流行花草放样,意大利文艺复兴时期流行华丽的花卉图案,法国路易十五时期,受洛可可装饰风格的影响,流行表现S形或旋涡形的藤草和轻淡柔和的庭院花草放样。野兽派的杜飞花样、利用几何绪视原理设计的欧普图案等则是近代流行的图案花样。
上：中国服饰
下：西方服饰
中国服饰的历史源远流长，从原始社会、夏商周、春秋战国、秦汉、魏晋南北朝、隋唐、宋辽夏金元、明、清，到近现代，都以鲜明特色为世界所瞩目，主要以汉服为主，另外还有胡服、旗装等。
“西方”，沿用了关于区域范畴的习惯称谓，与亚洲一带的“东方”相对。西方服装史，即是以西欧国家为主，上溯至美索不达米亚和埃及的服装发展史。西方服装体现出与东方服装相迥异的风格，特别是其中所蕴含的文化元素，代表了人类服装史的一个重要组成部分。
扩展资料：
二、导致中西方服饰差异的原因分析
1、中西服饰文化的差异
中国几千年来的历史进程中，我们的祖先创造了底蕴深厚的宽衣服饰文化，形成了特有的美学与哲学观念，与西方截然不同。
西方则强调主观世界与客观世界分离，明确提出主观为我，客观为物，“物”与“我”是相对立的，不容混淆的，致使他们习惯于理性观察世界和探讨规律，并形成一种追求自然法则以获得真理的作法。因而，表现出以一种理性的或科学性的态度对待服饰。
2、中西方美学观念的差异
中国服饰美学观念表现在女装造型上的是意象的结构。
这种平面的直线与曲线的裁剪方法使衣服适体又不完全合体，不裸露张扬也不尽力束缚，在遮体的隐约之中含蓄地显现了流畅婉约，温情流动的人体曲线美，造型意识是节奏化的，让视点随着自己的心愿移动，使生命之体在宽衣的帖体与离体之间流露气韵。
我国传统的服装空间造型是借“虚与实”、“明与暗”的节奏表达出来。西方的服装空间意识是在中世纪以后形成的，反映了西方人对空间的探求心理，渴望占据更多的空间，于是增大服装造型的体积，将服装视为扩大自我肉体的一种工具。
这种夸张的服装造型使人与自然整体之间，人与人的个体之间保持着一定的距离，反映了西方人的宇宙观，也反映了人与自然万物、心灵与环境、主观与客观的对立性。由于东方与西方不同的哲学美学观念在服装上创造了不同的基本造型，体现了不同的精神气韵。
3、中西服饰文化中的着装理念的差异
在中国传统的社会及家庭教育中，服装行为规范被看作是修身的一个重要内容，并长期影响着中国人的着装生活。人们在着装上注重伦理内容，用服装掩盖人体，竭力超越人体的局限，以达到儒家的道德要求。服装美注重表现人的精神、气质、神韵之美，并不强调形体。
西方服装文化属于多元化的范畴，其中最显著的特点是服装突出个性，显示个性。
参考资料来源：百度百科-中国服饰 （中国历代服饰）
参考资料来源：百度百科-西方服装史
Abstract: Dress culture is a cultural phenomenon unique to human beings. As it has different aesthetic ideas, different dressing concepts and different dress etiquette in China and west, it forms Chinese and western dress culture of the different connotation and characteristics. This thesis is divided into four major sections. The first part describes the different features of Chinese and western dress and why people wear clothing. The second part describes cultural differences between Chinese and western clothing. The third part gives an analysis of Chinese and western dress culture. The last part describes Chinese and western dress aesthetic culture and dress concept. Based on the analysis, the thesis finally draws a conclusion. Chinese and western dress culture each has rich connotation and distinct characteristics, which are precious cultural legacy which is left by human ancestors and are the world culture heritage. At the same time, we treasure our own civilization of five thousand years instead of belittling ourselves. It is significant to promote and develop our unique costume culture. We are confident and make contributions to realizing the rejuvenation of our Chinese nation and enriching the clothing culture of the whole world. Key words: Chinese and western clothing; culture；differences；aesthetic culture and clothing concepts 摘要摘要摘要摘要::::服饰文化是人类特有的文化现象。由于中西方各民族的审美观念、着装理念和服饰礼仪的不同，从而形成了不同内涵、不同特色的中西方服饰文化。本文共分为四部分。第一部分主要介绍了中西服饰的不同特征以及为什么人要穿衣服，第二部分写中西方服饰的差异，第三部分写导致中西方服饰文化差异的原因，第四部分则写中西方服饰审美文化和着装理念。通过以上简单的论述，最后得出结论，中西方服饰文化各具有丰富的内涵和鲜明的特色，她们都是人类祖先留下来的宝贵文化遗产 ,是世界文化的瑰宝。与此同时,我们应该珍惜自己五千年的文明而不是贬低自己的文明。促进和发展我们独特的民族服饰文化具有重要的意义。为了实现我们中华民族的文化复兴和丰富整个世界的文化，让我们自信起来吧！ 关键词关键词关键词关键词::::中西服饰；文化；差异性；审美文化与着装理念Introduction Costume culture, carried by costume, is a respect of our physical and spiritual life and a mixture of our psychological activities like consciousness, emotion, idea and ideal. The rapid development of advanced technology makes multiculturalism stand out and also makes conflicts between China and the West increase. In that case, it becomes more and more important to recognize the similarities and differences of costume culture between China and the West. Nowadays, the whole world is, to some extent, dominated by the western costume culture, which has wound its way into the daily life of the whole world, together with technology, life style and values from the West. Quite popular in China, it’s nominally called “internationalization” or “globalization”. In recent years, the costume industry of China has developed swiftly. The “international” costume, featured by the western costume culture, has become a pretty important part of our daily life. However, as our economy takes off, international status rises and living standard improves, a wave of national costume culture resurgence is rising. Moreover, people from the West pay more and more attention to the giant dragon in the East——China. Western costume designers constantly introduce Chinese costume cultural elements to their latest designs. Those phenomena arouse a series of thoughts: what distinguishes Chinese costume culture from the western one? Are there any similarities between them? What kind of costume culture will we Chinese hold as the mainstream in the future, the so-called “international” western one, the Chinese one or the fusion of the two? To obtain the answers to these questions, we are supposed to study and contrast carefully the characteristics and developing processes of them, and then draw some regularity. To contrast the costume culture between China and the West, it is necessary for us to master a good knowledge of the Chinese and western costume cultural characteristics.Chapter 1 Chinese and western dress 1.1 The different features of Chinese and western dress China is known as “Xia” as it’s a land of propriety, and it’s also known as “Hua” with the beauty of its costume. (①《左传》p83) Our national costume is Hanfu. It originated in the Yanhuang era, formed in the Spring and Autumn Period and officially took form in Han Dynasty. That’s the reason why it’s called “Hanfu”. Since then, in spite of historical evolutions of all ages, their basic characteristics have never changed. Hanfu, on the whole, can be divided into four developing stages: Zhou Han Hanfu, Wei Jin Hanfu, Sui Tang Hanfu and Song Ming Hanfu. Zhou Han Hanfu was featured by dignity and simplicity, while Wei Jin Hanfu by chic and elegance, Sui Tang Hanfu by dignified, graceful, elegant and poised style. Hanfu in Song and Ming Dynasties epitomizes the characteristics of the past-simple, dignified, elegant, etc. In Qing Dynasty, Hanfu was forbidden by the government and disappeared from the land of China. The main features of Chinese clothing are focusing on the right collar’s overlap, the band deducted hidden, big sleeves, no buttons and using string binding, giving the impression of free and easy flowing. These characteristics are obviously different from those of other ethnic costumes. Hanfu is divided into uniform and common clothing. With strict standards, uniform is dressed on formal occasions while the common clothing, without long sleeves, is very convenient to people’s daily life. However, the western clothing is different form the Chinese clothing. The West belongs to Marine civilization, it emphasizes the subjective and objective separation and that we should rationally treat clothing, advocate releasing personality, stress dress effect and be good at showing beautiful the posture of the body. Besides, we use various clipping, color collocation means to perfect bodily curve and give a person with visual comfort in the modeling. A suit, also known as a business suit, comprises a collection of matching clothing consisting of: a coat﹙commonly known as a jacket﹚,a waistcoat﹙optional﹚﹙USA vest﹚for men, a pair of trousers﹙USA pants﹚, or for women, a shirt or trousers. A suit is generally accompanied by torment, a shirt and tie or for women, a blouse. 1.2 Why people wear clothingChinese people are concerned more about its social function of helping to rule a country well than that of keeping warm or decorating. It has a lot to do with ruling a country to regulate the dressing way of the common people. Nevertheless, the westerners pay more attention to its wealth value and function. Therefore, people put on clothing for functional and social reasons. 1.2.1 The functional reason The first use of clothing is to resist the cold and cover the body. Functions of clothing include providing the human body protection against extremes of climate (extreme heat, icy winters, and drenching storms) and protection against insects, noxious, chemicals, and contact with abrasive substances. In sum, clothing protects human beings against anything that might injure the naked, unprotected human body. 1.2.2 The social reason Clothing also delivers social messages to other humans. Social messages sent by clothing, accessories, and decorations can involve social status, occupation, ethnic and religious belief, marital status, cultural degree and sexual availability, etc. For example, only Roman citizens can wear “Toga” in Rome while dragon robe can only be dressed by the emperor in China.
由于我国与西方的生活习惯以及民族习俗的不同，中西方 文化 存在许多差异。下面是我为大家整理的中西方文化差异论文，供大家参考。
摘要： 从历史文化的角度来说，中西方文化无论从萌芽、发展到现在的格局无疑是各具特色的。一个偏重群体关系和整体作用，提倡大家庭理论;一个偏重个体能力和英雄主义，提倡自由万岁。在两个文化理念截然相反的作用下，我们必须融合两者意识上的差异，在文化层次本身找到共性，以利于整个人类文化的发展。
关键词： 差异;价值观;文化
0 引言
历史发展至今，中西方文化就像两条时而胶着、时而分离的不规则线，同样源远流长，同样博大精深。自成体系、相互交融。但，无论任何时候，两者从未有过平行的时候，因此，研究世界文化不可能单一的研究中西方某个文化，而应全面、系统的对中西方文化加以研究。
1 关于中西方文化
1.1 文化的定义 著名人类学学者泰勒(Edward Burnett Tylor)这样给文化定义：“文化或者文明就是由作为社会成员的人所获得的、包括知识、信念、艺术、道德法则、法律、风俗以及其他能力和习惯的复杂整体。”这个定义已经比较权威。在此，我们将文化定义为人和环境互动而产生的精神 、物质成果的总和。这个总和中可以包括生活方式、价值观、知识、技术成果，以及一切经过人的改造和理解而别具人文特色的物质对象。
1.2 中国文化定义 中国文化一般指中国 传统文化 ，它是中华民族在长期历史发展中形成的，是中国各民族集体智慧的结晶。汉族是中华民族的主干民族，对中国文化的形成和发展起了重要的作用，其他少数民族也对中国文化做出过不可抹杀的贡献。
1.3 西方文化定义 西方文化和东方文化一样，源远流长，气象万千。一般是指发源于古希腊、罗马时期,浸染了中世纪的____传统,兴盛于文艺复兴、宗教改革,经启蒙运动而最终确立,并且近几百年来大盛于西欧北美的文化系统。
2 中西方文化的特点
中西方文化均源远流长、气象万千，两种文明都经历了几千年历史的发展演化才成型。迄今，无数学者为更好的研究两种文明，划分了各种各样的时期或时代，以将历史分割成各个有机统一的整体加以研究。在此，笔者参考各权威观点，结合自己的观点，在权威学说的基础上以阶段性为前提，简单描述一下中西方文化各自的特点，以便更好的对论题加以研究。
2.1 中国文化的特点 中国文化在西周时期创造出了中华文明的母形。这一时期建立了“余一人“的专制王权思想，敬德与重民思想开始萌芽，西周时期我国宗法社会与宗法文化开始成型，并且对后世中国文化脉络和思潮的演化产生了深远影响。战国时期，平民观点开始兴起，以孔子、孟子、墨子、老子、韩非子等为杰出代表。我国出现百家争鸣的文化发展状况。以仁为核心的儒家思想成为中国文化的中心。同时法家、道家思想并立。至此在几千年的发展过程中，中国形成了以“谦、恭、信、敏、慧”为核心的文化思想观、以“学而优则仕”的文化价值观。总的来说，中国文化就是细节服务于整体、突出整体效果的文化模式。
2.2 西方文化的特点 西方文化经过中世纪____文化的长期统治，阿拉伯文化的融入，随着资本主义经济萌芽的出现，出现了影响深远的文艺复兴和宗教改革。经过17世纪的科学革命，18世纪的启蒙运动，现代西方文化到19世纪臻于成熟，并向全世界扩张。西方文化在20世纪面临着来自内外多方面的挑战。现代主义、后现代主义只反映了现代西方文化的一个方面，表现出其躁动不安的情绪，远远不能概括其全貌。在几千年的发展过程中，西方文化形成了以“争”为核心的文化思想观、以自然科学和科研为核心的文化发展观。总的来说，西方文化就是突出细节、突出个体效果的文化模式。
3 中西方文化差异
3.1 西方文化文化的发展态势不同 中国文化中整体上来看，属于一种静态文化、一种家国文化。由于中国所处地理环境较为优越，给予了人一个可以长期居住生产的环境，所以，这种长期居住在同一个地方的条件便使家族发展的很快，安居乐业、居安而不思流动，就容易促使静态的文化模式发展。家族繁衍、代代相传，家族纽带越来越复杂，尊老和祭祖现象就必然在这样的发展模式下产生，家族观念，宗法制度也就逐渐形成并根深蒂固了。所以说，中国为什么叫家国，因为，家就是国、国就是家，家和国仅仅是规模上的差别，于此，这种静态文化和家国文化直接促成了中国仁、孝、礼、信为核心的贵和尚中的中庸思想。
而西方文化则属于一种动态文化、一种斗争文化。西方文化三大起源(古希腊文明、罗马文明和____文明)均源自地中海沿岸，西方的地理环境、气候促成了流动性较强的文化。并直接促使西方人的家庭观念相对薄弱，个人主义、自由主义等价值观念得以发展传承，由此产生的竞争意识、斗争文化更是西方文化发展的原动力。
3.2 中西方文化中的伦理观念不同 中国文化主张家庭伦理本位，而西方文化主张个人本位。上点已经提到，中国以家国主义文化为核心思想文化，以家族为本位，家庭便有长幼之序，夫妻之分，家庭成员各安其分，各尽义务，即“尽伦”!孟子认为：圣人是“人伦之民”，伦的核心是“绝对服从”，幼服长，妻服夫。使家变得如此重要的原因之一就是“孝”，“百善孝为先”，“孝道”是中国的国本，国粹，中国自古就有孝的文化，有以孝治天下之说.家与孝原本有伟大的理性意义，但由于过分强调，终成了一种过分的家族意识，而忽略了个人自由的发展，“存天理，灭人欲”，以个人向群体负责为人生宗旨。
而西方的地理环境及种种社会关系导致个人主义的兴起，导致家庭、家族纽带功能相对松弛。“上帝面前人人平等”的____义充分说明了西方文化中追求人格独立的特点，骑士精神、英雄主义的盛行源自于此。个人权利任何人不得侵犯，信奉个人本位、自我中心，这种个人本位思想使即使亲人间的界限也划分得非常明确，AA制、强调子女独立生活，喜欢谈论一己之所得。伯克哈特在《意大利文艺复兴时期的文化》一书中，认为只有个人得到充分的发展才能有社会的充分发展。存在主义把这个基本观念推向了极端，鼓吹“人是绝对自由的”，“他人就是我的地狱”。 3.3 中西方文化对人与自然的基本观点不同 杜维民教授认为：“中国文化关注的对象是人”。人与人的关系是中国文化关心的核心与基础问题，战国时期，我国就形成了以“仁”为核心的儒家思想，所以政治伦理学相当发达。而西方文化较多关注的是自然，人与自然的关系是古希腊注重的中心问题，由此衍生出理智和科技。
中国的哲学是一种人生哲学。儒家强调人在社会要有所作为，道家追求长生，佛家强调人的觉悟。同时建立了君臣、父子等一套人与人之间的伦理关系，学而优则仕成为中国社会主流思想。而科学研究可发现自然规律的探究行为并未得到重视。在处理人与自然的关系上，中国文化讲究“天人合一”、“顺天应物”。把自然人格化，追求人与自然和谐发展。
从古希腊泰勒斯的自然哲学开始，探索自然奥秘，开发和利用自然资源为人类服务就成为了欧洲思想的主流。西方科学起源与对自然的探索和研究，很早就出现了毕达哥拉斯、阿基米得这样名垂千古的科学家.在人与自然的关系上,西方文化认为人与自然处于对立的斗争状态,因而产生了与中国文化不同的对自然的态度,即人可以征服,控制自然。西方人也讲人与人之间的关系,但首先关注的不是伦理而是竞争,因而出现了“优胜劣汰”的规律。
4 中西方文化的文化价值观和文化结构不同
中国文化强调“诗言志”、“文以载道”和“天人合一”的文化价值观和整体综合。中国文化讲究有利于社会、有利于教化民众，中国广大文人苦读孔孟、圣人之学，学而优则仕，为的是齐家治国平天下。“托物言志”、“诗以言志”成了中国大部分文学作品的特色。同时也是“中国式特色”。现代西方文化倡导“为艺术而艺术”和多元的文化观。从康德提出“美只是形式”开始，纯粹的美感不应渗进任何愿望、任何需要、任何意志活动的说法在西方现代美学中成为占支配地位的思潮。克罗齐主张直觉即艺术，主张衡量艺术只有一个标准，即艺术标准。西方文化中的多元文化观包括两个方面，其一是文化形成的多元性;二是文化构成的多元性。
在文化结构方面，中国以整体综合见长，强调整体的作用;而西方以细节分析见长，突出个体的作用。例如，在时间、地址的书写顺序上，中国习惯按年、月、日，国家、省、市等由整体到部分开始书写，而西方恰恰相反。在姓氏排列上，中国姓氏先是宗族、辈分然后才是名，突出的是氏族整体;而西方姓氏先是自己名字、然后才是父名、族姓，突出的是个人。
在中西方文化的重要表现形式上，西方文化主张个人荣誉、自我中心、创新精神和个性自由，而中国文化是群体文化，主张谦虚谨慎、关心他人、助人为乐、无私奉献、中庸之道和团结协作。
值得注意的是，以上所说并不是说中国文化相对与西方文化来说是不变的文化，是封闭的文化。中国文化是强调“和平、稳定”;但这不意味着就是不变与封闭。中国哲学强调“天人和一”;而要达到这种境界，必须具有“海纳百川”胸怀和“户枢不蠹”的发展性眼光看待天地;因此，在中国古代的知识分子中一直强调“兼容”与“动”的观念。久而久之，就形成了中国文化所特有的包容性与变化观点——“仁者乐水，智者乐山”便是这种观点的具体体现。
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一个国家无论是在政治上，还是在经济贸易中，了解对方国家的礼仪习惯，将有利于各国之间的交往。一个人了解对方的礼仪民间习惯，是对对方的尊重，能够给对方留下一个好印象，以便交往的顺利进行。
随着东西方文化的不断发展，东西方的礼仪正在相互融合，西方人逐渐地接受了东方文化中重情感等合理因素，东方人也逐渐地接受了西方文化中先进文明的礼仪和交往方式。但在现实生活中，由于东西方文化的差异而对礼仪产生的影响还很多,为此 出国 留学 网我就以下几方面具体探讨东西方文化差异对礼仪所产生的影响：
一、社会交往方式的差异对礼仪的影响
东西方文化都非常重视 人际交往 ，但在交往的观念、交往的方式上都有着明显的差别。如中国人热情好客，在人际交往中饱含热情，问寒问暖，似乎没有什么可保留的，对于了解有关年龄、职业、收入、婚姻状况、子女等问题，觉得都理所当然。而在西方国家中，特别重视对方的隐私权。个人稳私主要包括：个人状况(年龄、工作、收入、婚姻、子女等)、政治观念(支持或反对何种党派)、宗教信仰(信仰什么宗教)、个人行为动向(去何种地方，与谁交往、通信)等。凡是涉及到个人隐私的都不能直接过问。西方人一般不愿意干涉别人的私生活和个人隐私，也不愿意被别人干涉。比如，很多中国人会直接询问别人所买物品的价格。因为在中国人看来，物品的贵贱只是表示该物品的质量。
而在西方人眼里，如果你直接询问别人所购物品的价格，就可能是探问对方的经济条件，因此，这也是西方人的隐私，属于不宜直接询问的问题。如果你想了解该物品的价格，只能委婉地夸耀、赞赏该物品，而这样的情况下西方人一般也只告诉你该物品的贵或贱，一般不会告诉你准确价格。中国人见面打招呼时喜欢问一句“去哪儿啊?”，这是招呼的一种形式。而在美国，你如果问朋友上哪儿去，则可能会使对方尴尬，因为这也属于对方的隐私，是你不该过问的。另外，人际交往的空间距离可以分为亲密距离、个人距离、社交距离、公共距离四种。中国人的空间距离相对较近。我们在大街上经常可以看到两个中国少女挽臂亲昵而行，而在西方则很少见到。西方人觉得中国人过于亲近，而中国人又会觉得西方人过于冷淡、傲慢，过分疏远，是不友好的表现。如果中国人发现交际对方的衣服上有根线头，他会很自然地帮助对方摘掉;而在西方人眼里，这是不礼貌之举。中国人看到朋友穿了件非常漂亮的衣服，会上前摸一摸，询问价钱或质地;而西方人则不会这样做，他们更多的是羡慕，并直接赞美。概而言之，这都是东西方文化观念差异所致。东方人非常重义、重情，西方人则崇尚个人独立。
二、个人人生观的差异对礼仪的影响
(一)个人荣誉感与谦虚谨慎 西方人崇拜个人奋斗，尤其为个人取得的成就而自豪，从来不掩饰自己的自信心、荣誉感以及在获得成就后的狂喜。而相反，中国文化却不主张炫耀个人荣誉，则提倡谦虚谨慎。一般来说，中国人大多反对或蔑视王婆卖瓜式的自吹自擂，然而中国式的自我谦虚或自我否定却常常使西方人感到不满。例如，“your English is very good,”“No,no,my English is very poor”;“you've done a nice job,”“No,I don't think so.It's the result of joint efforts.”，这在中国人看来当然是一种谦虚的说法，而在西方人看来，不仅否定了自己，还否定了赞扬者的鉴赏力。可见，这种中国式的谦虚在西方资本主义的竞争市场是行不通的。
(二)自我中心与无私奉献 西方人自我中心意识和独立意识很强，主要表现在：1.自己为自己负责。在弱肉强食的社会，每个人生存方式及生存质量都取决于自己的能力，因此，每个人都必须自我奋斗，把个人利益放在第一位;2.不习惯关心他人，帮助他人，不过问他人的事情。正由于以上两点，主动帮助别人或接受别人帮助在西方往往就成为令人难堪的事。因为接受帮助只能证明自己无能，而主动帮助别人会被认为是干涉别人私事。 中国人的行为准则是“我对他人，对社会是否有用”，个人的价值是在奉献中体现出来的。中国文化推崇一种高尚的情操———无私奉献。在中国，主动关心别人，给人以无微不至的体贴是一种美德，因此，中国人不论别人的大事小事，家事私事都愿主动关心，而这在西方则会被视为“多管闲事”。
(三)创新精神与中庸之道 西方文化鼓励人民开拓创新，做一番前人未做过的、杰出超凡的事业。而传统的中国文化则要求人们不偏不倚，走中庸之道，中国人善于预见未来的危险性，更愿意维护现状，保持和谐。当然，近年来我国也大力提倡创新改革，但务实求稳之心态仍处处体现。冒险精神仍是不能与西方人相比的。 (四)个性自由与团结协作 西方人十分珍视个人自由，喜欢随心所欲，独往独行，不愿受限制。中国文化则更多地强调集体主义，主张个人利益服从集体利益，主张同甘共苦，团结合作，步调一致。
三、法制观念的不同对礼仪的影响
东方文化以儒家思想为代表，而儒家思想重义轻利。为了兄弟朋友的情义，可以网开一面，甚至不惜一切代价，其结果往往是行为过头，丧失了更多的应得利益。比如中国人重人情，人情味浓厚。有句老话：“血浓于水”“亲不亲，故乡人，美不美，家乡水。”这些话所包含的意思是人情影响判断，人情重于道义。“水”，即使不美，但只要是家乡水，那也就美了，这就是情重于理的表现。甚至有时会情重于法，这主要是因为中国历来有情影响法的制度空间，也就是说，我们中国人先讲合情，再讲合理，然后讲合法。
若合法而不合情合理，这法就难以执行，若合情合理，有法也可以不依。 而西方人则是倒过来的。西人重法，不重人情。法在理前，理在情前。我们时常看到西方父子之间、夫妻之间、朋友之间上法庭打官司。有些事明明不合情不合理，但合法，吃亏者也只有自认倒霉，旁观者也只能容忍。但若有的事不合法，即使合情合理，西人也会争论不休，直到闹上法庭。 在情理法的中国，人情味浓厚，什么事都可以想想办法，托托人情，走走关系。这是一种自然 保险 系统，人们容易在艰苦的环境下渡过难关。因此在中国，人事关系极为重要，生活之中充满天伦之乐。但也容易产生不公正;在法理情的西方国家，人情似纸，相互之间可说是“鸡犬之声相闻，老死不相往来”。有什么矛盾，先讲理，后上法庭，简单明了。西方人虽淡薄人情，却十分讲公正、平等，即使是一介草民，只要是真正合理合法，就是同总理打官司，他也照样可以打赢。在西方国家生活，有点像广寒宫里，富裕、 清明 、漂亮，却有一般寒冷之感。尤其是老人，孤孤单单，踽踽独行，在我们中国人看来甚是可怜。
四、社会习俗的不同对礼仪的影响
在东方文化中，男士往往倍受尊重，这主要受封建礼制男尊女卑观念的影响。在现代社会，东方文化也主张男女平等，但在许多时候，男士的地位仍然较女士有优越性，女士仍有受歧视的现象。在欧美等西方国家，尊重妇女是其传统风俗，女士优先是西方国家交际中的原则之一。无论在何种公共场合，男士都要照顾女士，比如，握手时，女士先伸手，然后男士才能随之;赴宴时，男士要先让女士坐下，女士先点菜，进门时，女士先行;上下电梯，女士在前等等。现在，随着东西方文化交流的加深，西方的女士优先原则在东方国家也备受青睐。东西方文化的交融，也使东西方礼仪日趋融合、统一，更具国际化。
再如，在处理长幼关系时，以中国为代表的东方国家对待长者特别尊敬、孝敬。比如，在许多中国人看来，如果老人有子女，年老时子女把老人送到养老院或敬老院去生活，这就是不孝，过年过节儿女一般要和老人一起过。在中国农村一些地方，过年时，晚辈都要给长辈行跪拜礼。而在西方国家，由于崇尚自立，儿女成年后和父母间的来往则越来越少，致使许多老人时常感到孤独，晚年生活有一种凄凉感。
五、等级观念的差异对礼仪的影响
东方文化等级观念强烈。无论是在组织里，还是在家庭里，忽略等级、地位就是非礼。尽管传统礼制中的等级制度已被消除，但等级观念至今仍对东方文化产生影响。在中国，传统的君臣、父子等级观念在中国人的头脑中仍根深蒂固。父亲在儿子的眼中、教师在学生的眼中有着绝对的权威，家庭背景在人的成长中仍起着相当重要的作用。另外，中国式的家庭结构比较复杂，传统的幸福家庭是四代同堂。在这样的家庭中，老人帮助照看小孩，儿孙们长大后帮助扶养老人，家庭成员之间互相依赖，互相帮助，密切了亲情关系。 在西方国家，除了英国等少数国家有着世袭贵族和森严的等级制度外，大多数西方国家都倡导平等观念。
特别在美国，崇尚人人平等，很少人以自己显赫的家庭背景为荣，也很少人以自己贫寒出身为耻，因他们都知道，只要自己努力，是一定能取得成功的。正如美国一句流行的 谚语 所言：“只要努力，牛仔也能当总统。”(If working hard, even acowboy can be president.)在家庭中，美国人不讲等级，只要彼此尊重，父母与子女可直呼其名。他们的家庭观念往往比较淡薄，不愿为家庭做出太多牺牲。 当然，中西方文化的不同导致的礼仪上的差异还有很多，比如服饰礼仪、进餐礼仪等等，由于篇幅等多方面的制约，在此不能一一深入探讨。总之，中西方之间有各自的文化习惯，由此也产生了不少不同的交往习惯。因此，随着我国经济的发展和对外交流、贸易的不断增加，我们不但有必要在与外国人交往或者前往别的国家去之前，了解对方国家的礼仪习惯，而且必须加强专业礼仪人才的培养，提高全民礼仪意识，这不仅是对对方的尊重，也给我们自己带来了便利，不但能避免了不必要的麻烦与误会，还能在现代社会的多方竞争中争取主动，取得良好的结果或效益。
如果说西方服饰文化刻意追求表现人体美，而完全忽视了服饰伦理，那么，中国服饰文化由于受到传统的伦理价值观念的影响还或多或少地保留着一些道德上的体统。譬如《礼记·王制》说：“作淫声异服。奇球奇器以疑众，杀！”（易·系辞》认为：‘始容诲淫”。《左传》称“贪色为淫”。《系辞》是秦、汗间的儒生所作，其后，赵飞燕、梁冀及其妻子等在服饰上的追求奇异和生活的淫乱，更说明了“冶容诲淫”。然而，尽管中国传统服饰文化没有或者很少突出对人体美的直接赞赏，但在一些古典文学作品里不乏对人体美的描写。从《诗经》，骚赋到明清的小说和传奇，其中都有这类描写，譬如“肌如白雪，腰如束素”。“肤如凝脂”、“虎背熊腰”，而且更多的是人与服饰共同构成的美的形象；“著我绣荚裙，事事四五通，足上蹑丝履，头上玳瑁光，腰若流纨素，耳著明月铛，指如削葱根，口如含珠丹，纤纤作细步，精妙世无双。”（《古诗为焦仲卿妻作》）；“三月三日天气新，长安水边多丽人。态浓意远淑且真，肌理细腻骨肉匀。绣罗衣赏照暮春，蹙金孔雀银麒麟。头上何所有？翠微訇叶垂鬓唇。背后何所见？珠压腰 稳称身。”（《丽人行》）或许有人会以现代女性服装中的旗袍为例，来证明中国女装也着重表现人体的自然美，其实，这种旗袍是在本世纪上半叶受西方服饰审美趣味影响的结果，直至光绪年间，旗袍还不是现在的式样。传统旗袍在肩、胸、腰、臂、臀等部位的表现与突出人体美的西方女性服装完全不一样。和西方服饰艺术不同的是：中国服饰艺术不是突出人体美，而是充分调动艺术造型等手段追求一种装饰美，即一种超越形体的精神空间。从中国清朝以前的服装款式来看，遮蔽人体的宽抱大油是中国传统服饰的主流。既使某些人的形体很美，这种服装也不去展现这个美的形体。《资治通鉴》引萧何的话说：“天子以四海为家，不壮不丽无以重威，”从这层意义上去看宽抱大袖的中国古代皇帝礼服，我们应会明白它们为什么不去表现皇帝的形体美，而是着重写意传神，突出他们端庄威严的精神力量。屈原在《涉江》中言：“余幼好此奇服兮，年既老而不衰，带长铗之陆离兮，冠切云之崔嵬。”他以穿戴富有自己个性的服饰来表现自己愤世嫉俗，不趋炎附势的气度和情怀。西方服饰人体直观美和中国服饰人体装饰美的区别反映了两种文化形态价值取向的不同。林语堂就曾经指出：“大约中西服装哲学上不同之点，在于西装意在表现人身形体，而中装意在遮盖它。”（《生活的艺术》）莱辛说：“我承认衣服也有一种美，但是比起人体美来，衣服美算得上什么呢？”（转引自《西方美学家论美和美感》）而林语堂则持相反观点：“只有在没有美感的社会，才可以容得住西装……西装的式样是这样的，使街上的行人都会知道你的腰身是三十二寸或三十八寸……一般痴肥的四十岁妇女，穿起祖胸露背的晚服来赴歌剧的初夜公演，这也是西洋发明的刺目事物之一。（《生活的艺术》） 然而，由于中国服饰文化缺乏象伊斯兰一样的宗教观念的制约，所以很难抵卸西方突出人体美的服饰审美价值观的侵蚀。近代的旗袍和现代都市女性的各种扭四人体的服装便证明了这一点。中国有句俗语：“穿衣戴帽各随所好”。这说明中国服饰文化在一定程度上缺少伦理的约束。 当然西方服饰也吸收中国传统服饰的某些特点，譬如，当中国现代服装采用西方女装那种坦肩露背的领式时，西方则采用中国旗袍的立式领，但西方对中国传统服饰特点的吸收和借鉴毕竟是微乎甚微的。中国传统服饰的审美价值观不可能从整体上去改变或者去替代西方人的审美定势，而西方服饰文化则已形成对中国传统服饰文化的强大冲击波，中国人似乎不知不觉地在面临着服饰上的异化。 和伊斯兰服饰文化不同的另一个方面是：中西当代和现代服饰最引人注目的一个特点是：服饰款式不断翻新，追求品牌，高速淘汰，从而给经济资源带来巨大的浪费。这同反对奢靡浪费的伊斯兰服饰伦理学形成了鲜明的对比。翻阅近二十年来中西各国时装杂志，我们很容易发现，许多服装款式的平均寿命只有三至六个月，甚至更短。仅以裙子的款式为例，在二十世纪七十年代就有“中庸裙”、“密实裙”、“密摺把裙装”、“开裙”、“层叠裙装”、古典式裙装”相继问世。许多服装设计师每年都要推出许多新的服装款式，在不断地人为地刺激服装款式高消费的同时也不断地刺激人们的其他欲望。据国外有关资料报道，当英国王妃戴安娜得知自己被列为一九八三年‘十大衣着最差女性”榜首时，感到十分羞傀和难堪，连英国的许多平民百姓也为她祈祷。这一事例极具有讽刺意义。它表明：服饰早已超越了普通人，甚认为，服饰不仅具有实用和装饰的功效，而且更重要的是，它有体现人类在信仰上的崇高精神境界的作用和意义。而中西服饰文化则将服饰艺术视为服装设计的首要原则，前者重装饰艺术；后者重人体艺术。伦理观念对服装设计与制作的调节作用受到不同程度的弱化或摈弃。甚至是英国成员的消费标准和审美标准。这种情形正如乔维诺.庞达诺曾指出的：“我们每天都看到服装是这样变更花样，四个月前还认为满意的服装，今天就已经过时而遭到摈弃。这种放荡不羁，只能受到谴责而无法加以禁止。”（《君主论》）虽然服装上的铺张浪费和追求新奇效应在中国传统服饰文化中从未占据主导地位，但不少有识之士对此却有警世之言在先，譬如，墨子就曾讲过：“为衣服之法，冬则练帛之中，足以为轻且暖；夏则缔络之中，足以为轻且清，谨此则止。故圣人之为衣服，适身体和肌肤而足矣，非荣耳而观愚民也……当今之主，其为衣服……铸金色为钩，珠玉以为佩，女工作文采，男工作刻接，以为身服。此非云益暖之情也，单财劳力，毕归之于无用也。以此观之，其为衣服，非为身体，皆为现好。是以其民淫僻而难治，其君奢侈而难谏也。”（《墨子·辞过》）墨子的话语是多么的中肯和精辟，但至今仍遭非议。 此外，当今的有些时装设计师还有意追求某种荒诞离奇的视觉效应。譬如在西方和日本等国曾一度流行过的“乞丐装”，人们故意把衣服弄破，东拖一片，西挂一片，甚至弄成衣不蔽体的样子。或者用陈旧肮脏的布来制作。 至于伊斯兰服饰伦理学坚决反对的男扮女装，女扮男装，在中西现代服饰中更是司空见惯，屡见不鲜。我们在街上常常可以看到身着男式服饰的所谓“假小子”和头扎辫子，耳戴金环的妖艳男子。还有些服装似乎是受了西方女权主义思潮的影响，有意在消除两性之间的特征差别，提倡所谓：中性服饰”或者“服饰中性化”。 一、伊斯兰服饰文化是以伊斯兰教义这一最根本的、最合理的价值观作为统摄服饰的文化、历史、时代、心理、审美等诸要素的最高主导思想。伊斯兰服饰艺术根本无需伦理学的干预，因为艺术本身就足以陶冶人们的高尚情操。 二、伊斯兰服饰文化强调服装必须遮盖羞体。因为虽然人体作为安拉的创造物是均称健美的，但人体是有男女之别的。暴露羞体很容易激起本能的情欲，从而败坏道德，使人降格为同动物一般。而西方服饰文化则有意突出人体。在将人体作为一种美来观赏时，忽略了人体美的特殊性及人体审美经验的特殊性，混淆了人体美与其他美的形态之间的差异。这种展现和突出人体的审美观是西方服饰文化的基础。它在某种程度上是古罗马文化的历史沉淀。而中国传统服饰文化虽然在一定程度上受到传统伦理价值观的约束，不是重人体的直观表现，而是重装饰的写意和传神，但这种传统伦理价值观缺少象伊斯兰伦理学一般的坚固支撑——认主独一的正信和后世归宿的最终关怀，因此，很难抵卸西方审美价值观在服饰设计与制作上的非道德化倾向的侵蚀，使自身最终发生异化
隐喻的中西方文化差异Abstract: Metaphor is not only a linguistic phenomenon but also a way of thinking, which is one of the basic methods for human survival and cognition. It is rooted in language, thought and culture. Through the analysis and comparison of the use and concept of metaphor in different countries, we find that its universality and commonality of the metaphor as a basic human cognitive activities. However, metaphor in different languages reflects a different way of thinking and behavior and different cultural patterns. Owing to the different two modes of thinking and culture, there are some differences in understanding and formation that can not be ignored. Therefore, this paper will discuss the questions above.Keywords: metaphor, cross-cultural differences, translation. 1. Preamble Metaphor is a common phenomenon, a large number of people use metaphor to express his feelings and ideas. British scientists rhetoric Richards (IARichards) once said, "We have day-to-day in almost every conversation in three sentences may be a metaphor." According to statistics, life around the use of 4,700,000 new metaphor, 2,140,000 stereotypes of metaphor. Research in recent years, there is a great metaphor. This article introduced in the definition of metaphor on the basis of summing up the similarities and differences between Chinese and Western metaphor, and that its culture, precisely because of the prevalence of metaphor, how to translate metaphor has become a very important issue in the latter part of the article is aimed at The translation of metaphor put forward a translation of the three strategies. This paper studies aimed at trying to comparative analysis of English and Chinese in a large number of day-to-day language of metaphor to express, find out the differences and similarities, in order to be able to accurately translate the article in good metaphor to explore a little. This article is about the metaphor from the point of view to explore the differences in the way Thinking allows us to a deeper understanding of language, culture, the relationship between thinking and can more clearly understand the different ethnic language, culture, way of thinking, and so on On the nature of translation. 2. Metaphors in Chinese and Western studies In 1980, Lakoff & Johnson (George Lakoff & Mark Johnson) made a "living metaphor" (Metaphors We Live By) of the book, a modern metaphor to open a new chapter in the school. Domestic academia on the "metaphor" This is also a review of the system, such as Lin Wu's book "Study abroad metaphor Looking at the" beam-setting "metaphor research," Li of China and India "The main subjects Metaphor" and so on. However, the Chinese metaphor for the academic study of rare. "Chinese scholars on the study of metaphor, I am afraid the real contribution should be through the metaphor of the Chinese characteristics of research and study, through the metaphor of the Chinese and other languages in the comparative study of metaphor, metaphor for the establishment of a more general theory of the strong, and even unique The basis. "Lin Wu in the book" metaphor of the basic research the status quo, and the focus of the trend "in the main text, put forward a model of cultural metaphors with the relationship:" The language of metaphor is the emergence of expression into the system, which not only reflects the psychological Structure, but also reflect the different cultural models also play a role. " 2.1 metaphor in the relationship between Chinese and Western cultures 2.1.1 relationship Correspond to (corresponding) refers to the relationship between the two languages, English and Chinese in the meaning and metaphor in the use of the same meaning in the culture and image, and so on and-one mapping. This is because the survival of mankind itself, as well as all the external conditions, including the geographical environment, climate change, and the whole of human society and cultural background are certain there is a common, which formed a common humanity of their own and the outside world on many issues. In the "angry" mood, the English are angry that physiological responses, such as: grind one's teeth. (Teeth), bare one's teeth. (Ziyaliezui) an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth. (an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth), reflecting the Chinese culture on the basis of common experience. 2.1.2 non-correspondence English-Chinese metaphor, after all, rooted in two different languages on the soil, resulting in very different cultural backgrounds, fully corresponds to the few metaphors, the vast majority do not have common cultural identity in order to form the corresponding non-(non-corresponding ) Relations. Non-relationship metaphor can be roughly divided into three categories: 2.1.2.1 Vehicle counterpart, Yu Yi does not correspond to English and Chinese in some cases there is the same as a metaphor, but in their own language and culture in the meaning of the metaphor means is different, even different. Peacock in the Chinese culture is auspicious, a symbol of beauty, especially the Dai people to express jumped Pavaner desire to better their own. If the Chinese people will be likened to a peacock, it means that beautiful light. However, in English, peacock (Peacock) is a symbol of pride, often interpreted as arrogance, love to show off. For example, They were eager to take the young peacock down a peg. (They want to pressure a pressure that the arrogant young guy's momentum). 2.1.2.2 counterpart Yu Yi, the vehicle does not correspond to English-Chinese two nations due to their differences, from different angles to look at things the same, it will be a different analogy. As a result both English and Chinese language there is a different vehicle, but Yu was referring to was basically the same as the meaning of the case, that is the same kind of non-correspondence. Such as: a person described as the hearts of anxious, restless, Chinese is "ants on the hot pan" and English is "a cat on the bricks". There are similar: To kick down the ladder. Guohechaiqiao. 2.1.2.3 Yu Yu Yi and do not correspond to Some of the metaphors Yu-Yu has a meaning and it refers to the language and culture are closely related, in another culture often can not find corresponding Yu and Yu Yi, which resulted in a culture known as the default Phenomenon. For example: in English "my rib" I am referring to Yu's wife, it comes from the "Bible" story, that is, Adam (Adam)'s wife Eve (Eve) God is with a piece of Adam's rib made. The Chinese did not, "the Bible" cultural background, and there was no analogy with rib habit, so the formation of a corresponding gap. Similarly, "ugly duckling" (Ugly Duckling) refers to the metaphor will get ahead of Little, "early bird" refers to the diligent Yu, in the words into Chinese language, culture, as a result of the default, can not find a corresponding relationship between metaphor . 2.2 Chinese and Western cultures in the common metaphor Metaphor and culture to a large extent, human beings have a common understanding, rooted in the people's own day-to-day experience. In this connection, often between different ethnic groups are the same. Both English and Chinese language in a lot of abstract thinking that the metaphorical expression is the same. For example: the human child in the period to form a position on the concept of input in that direction in the form of many of them easily understood, including the position expressed by metaphor, which has become a fixed pattern of thinking. For example: The term direction (up, down) to describe people's social status, physical, emotional, and other abstract concepts to the case when the good is up; Sad is down. We Chinese are also not difficult to find a similar sentence: "Gas Prices "," enhance the social status "and" vision "and" depressed. " Since the objective laws of nature with the relative unity of different cultures to understand the nature of the course is similar to the cognitive experience. 2.3 in the metaphor of the difference between Chinese and Western cultures As the English-Chinese geographical and cultural differences, living in two different cultures in practice there are a lot of differences, and different life experiences and let people understand the objective world, a different language carries different nationalities Cultural characteristics and cultural information. Understanding of metaphor is not out of socio-cultural backgrounds. For example, social and cultural impact of the color words is deep-rooted, some color words in different cultures in an entirely different meaning, has a distinctive feature of our national culture. Such as: English, said in green "inexperienced" and "shallow knowledge", such as: "a green hand", "I was very green when I started working there." The Chinese like to express the meaning of the word is "yellow" Such as: "Huangmaoyatou" and "flower girl". Cultural background knowledge is the metaphor to create a rich source of thinking, as the Eastern and Western cultures are different, metaphors in English and Chinese applications there are also significant differences. 2.4 The metaphor of the cross-cultural differences between Chinese and Western influence Language is a cultural change in the development of the complex, subject to political, economic, historical, environmental and other factors. Chinese and Western styles are different, but in many ways to infiltrate interaction and integration, language differences and cultural metaphor for the inevitable impact is complex and diverse. 2.4.1 metaphorical expression of cultural conflict Different nationalities in the world to observe a different perspective and ideas, different cultures there are a lot of conflict or inconsistency metaphor. If the animal metaphors, in English Long (dragon) is a kind of evil, will belch out smoke monster. "Bible", the dragon is the devil, is a symbol of evil and terror, there is a terrible vicious meaning. The Chinese dragon is in power, the auspicious symbol of Chinese traditional culture, the Chinese have "Wangzichenglong", "descendants of the Dragon." The same analogy in different cultures, different meaning, of two cultures "Dragon" to give a different connotation. 2.4.2 differences in living conditions caused by differences in metaphor In English is a lot of metaphor and marine-related, such as: all at sea (at a loss what to do); drink like a fish (drinking cow); fish in the air (Shuizhonglaoyue); give up the ship (give up). In Chinese, there are a lot of the horse or cattle pose a metaphor, such as: "a willing ox" (a willing horse) Gan means to serve the community; "old ox" (a working horse) refers to the hard work; "bragging "(Talk horse), and so on. This is due to different geographical location and natural environment caused by different cultural metaphor. Britain is an island, ultimately, dependent on the sea, and China is a large agricultural country, farming culture deeply feudal society. 2.4.3 different religious and cultural differences arising from the metaphor Religious culture of human culture is an important part of it by referring to the nation's religious beliefs, such as the formation of the sense of culture, "the Bible" in the story, with its language and meaning has become a feature of daily life in the West in terms of . For example, power of the keys (the keys to the kingdom of heaven; the rights of the Pope), in the right church, but in the wrong pew (in general is right, but not the details), and so on. Chinese culture and Buddhism, Taoism and more affected by the impact of Confucianism, the Chinese, there are a lot of related argot. "Jiehuaxianfo"; "临时抱佛脚"; "做一天和尚撞一天钟" and so on. It is due to the diversity of culture, resulting in the differences between English and Chinese metaphor. This difference to the cross-cultural communication has brought the impact. As a foreign language students, do not understand the difference between metaphor and language will make mistakes, sometimes mistakenly made good as pleasant, caused by either one or both of the conversation unpleasant; also sometimes mocked as a praise. When a native language other operators do not understand the language contained in the cultural differences, it is often difficult for such language to accurately convey the meaning of the understanding, difficulty to the cross-cultural exchange. 3. Metaphor of the three methods of translation The translation of metaphor not only accurately and effectively convey the original language, but also loyal, accessible, complete reproduction of the original language and cultural connotation and significance. But in the West because of cultural differences and different, so the translation of metaphor in English on the need to consider not only its literal sense, and so on, but also in the West should pay attention to their cultural differences. American Eugene Nida said: "Translation is the exchange between the two cultures. The real success of the translation, even more familiar with the two cultures is more important to master two languages. Because only in terms of its role in the culture In the background will only be meaningful. "Therefore, the translation of metaphor to combining Chinese and Western cultures, and cultural backgrounds to leave the translation, can not be achieved between the two languages of the real exchange. 3.1 Literal Translation The so-called "literal" is asked in the language when conditions permit, in the translation to maintain the original content, but also to maintain the original form, in particular, to maintain the original metaphor, the image of the nation, and other local color. In the literal translation method to maintain the original expression of the culture and at the same time, target enriched the vocabulary and expression, such as: "a Pandora's box" (Pandora's Box); "chain reaction" (chain reaction). In the original text and asked the information contained in the same culture, we should adopt the literal translation method. (1) You are my sunshine, my only sunshine. : You are my sun, my only sunshine. In Chinese and English, the sun is warm, beautiful, in both languages, they disseminate information on culture are the same. As a rule, and asked in the original text in the form of grammatical structure, similar to the style or color on basically the same, the law should adopt the literal translation. (1) He is another Shylock. : He is also a Shylock. (Note: Shakespeare's Shylock is "The Merchant of Venice" in a very harsh mean business People. ) (2) To carry coals to Newcastle. : Coal to Newcastle. (Note: "Newcastle" is a British coal, coal is superfluous here.) 4. Conclusion Metaphor as a way to figures of speech or skills, a unique feature of grammar, which features make the sentence more flexible and constructive, but the United States. Is a metaphor to express more complex ideas and things, a powerful tool. Wherever and whenever people in their daily lives are often used metaphor. As Mr. Lin Zhuang said: "The metaphor is no longer expanding his knowledge and understanding of a passive process. To help us in the form of new knowledge, the metaphor has played an active role so that we can better a better understanding of the objective world." In English and Chinese Metaphorical significance of the difference is due to cultural differences between East and West, that mode of thinking, moral values and sense of difference. However, different cultural impact of what is the concept of metaphor, it is still a need to examine and address the problem. At the same time, in the metaphor of the process of translation must pay special attention to cultural differences. The best translation is to be able to accurately reflect the true meaning of the author, as well as its cultural and stylistic characteristics of the translation, that is, the translation of metaphor to make as much as possible the original language and to achieve the target language culture, and so on.