从中西饮食文化看文化差异论文
饮食是一个广泛的称呼与概念,包含吃、喝相关的文化及做为。 饮食是现代的一种文化,而中华美食则誉满天下。中国饭好吃,外国人爱吃也是不争的事实。下面是我为你带来的从中西饮食文化看文化差异论文 ,欢迎阅读。
摘 要: 本文通过阐述中西餐饮文化差异,分析中西餐饮文化在在哲学体系、价值观念、思维方式等方面的差异,从而促进中西方文化的融合,让更多的人通过饮食了解饮食背后的文化。
关键词: 中西文化 饮食文化 差异比较
提到饮食文化,人们总是会不约而同地首先想到“吃”,不错,饮食的确是人类生存和发展的第一需要,是社会生活的基本形式之一。然而加上了“文化”二字以后,饮食就不仅仅是“吃”这么简单了,它包括饮食文化的整体,是人类在饮食方面的创造行为及其成果,凡涉及人类饮食方面的思想、意识、观念、哲学、宗教、艺术等都在饮食文化的范围之内。
一、中西餐饮文化差异
中西方饮食文化最显而易见的不同就是使用的饮食器具。西方人以刀叉为食器,并且规定显明,不同规格的刀叉所使用的方式及场合不同,而且是不可以混用的。
中国人的餐桌上却不如西方人那么复杂,虽然是简简单单的一双筷子,但它在饮食文化中担任着十分重要的角色:筷子可以是我们的烹饪的工具,也是每家每户的搅拌器,打个鸡蛋,冲个饮料,无疑都需要筷子的帮忙。与西方如此严谨的规范相比,中国的筷子的确随意得多。
受科学导向的影响,西方烹饪的全过程必须严格按照科学规范行事,每道菜肴每次烹饪的过程、方法几乎完全一致,并且其所用的调料会精确到克,烹饪时间会精确到秒。
西方人对食物的选材极具规范,他们多以荤食为主,烹饪时往往以一整块肉或是一整只的禽类为主要食物,并且不吃内脏,认为内脏是弃料;对于蔬菜的选择上也比较单一,而且在饮食中以蔬菜为装点辅助之用,所以在西方人的饮食中蔬菜多为装饰工具。
相较于西方人而言,中国人在食物的选择与烹饪方式上就要随意得多。在中国厨师的手上也能变成一道味美的佳肴,这样的菜例比比皆是,如爆炒猪腰、糟猪肚、韭菜炒猪肝,等等。说到烹饪方式,更是层出不穷。不同于西方人的“精确到克”、“精确到秒”,中国人历来都是“随心所欲”,强调凭经验对结果进行把握。中国人喜素食,蔬菜的种类远多过于西方,这样,食材的相互搭配就变化多端,就以炒猪肝为例,可以是大葱炒猪肝,也可以是青椒炒猪肝,更可以是韭菜炒猪肝,每一道菜都各有风味。
西方人的饮食文化中注重食物的营养价值,因此,他们提倡吃生食,他们认为高温烹调会破坏了食物本身的营养,唯有生食才能最大限度地保存食物的天然属性和原汁原味,那么他们所追求的营养价值也可以被很好地保留。
中国饮食文化更重食物的味道,“美味”是中国饮食文化的第一要义,因此,中国人会借助一切技术手段、烹饪方式、调味方法使自己的食物变得鲜美无比,在中国,炒、煮、炖、烩、烧、烤、蒸、煎、炸、焖、熘等都是十分常见的熟食性烹调技术。
二、差异背后的文化根源
(一)哲学体系:形而上学与适度原则
西方哲学体系以形而上学为主要特点,也就是用孤立、静止、片面的观点看世界,认为一切事物都是孤立的,永远不变的;如果说有变化的话,那么只是数量的增减和场所的变更,这种增减或变更的原因不在事物内部而在于事物外部。反映到饮食文化就是所闻即所见,无论是菜单还是对食物的装点、摆盘,都是以一种最直接的方式呈现给人看,追求真实性,没有华丽的点缀,只体现食物的本源属性,这点与西方人的处事原则不谋而合,这样的哲学背景下就促成了西方人视“营养价值”为饮食的第一要义的观念,不在乎饮食的艺术性、创造性,目标性明确,即食物就是用来补充人对于营养需求的工具。
与西方人不同,中国传统哲学思想中最显著的特点之一是模糊、不可捉摸。它不像西方的形而上学那样追求事物的客观性、真实性,强调所闻即所见,而是凡是讲求分寸、讲求整体配合、讲求一个“度”。反映在饮食文化上的就是中国人将“美味”作为饮食的第一要义。在烹饪上,中国人讲究整体融合,没有西方人的精确,讲究的是凭经验将一道菜的各个部分相协调进而形成一道美味的佳肴。其中的经验又是模糊的,同一道菜,同一个师傅,每次做可能也会做出不同的味道,凭借经验对菜肴进行整体的把握,追求烹饪技术的随意性与艺术性,这便是中国人的传统哲学观念――模糊而完美。
(二)价值观:个人主义与集体主义
西方人推崇个人主义价值观念,个人目标高于对群体的忠诚。也就是说每一个只需要对自己负责即可,不需要服从其他任何一个集体,可以根据自己的喜好、需要选择自己喜欢的群体,但这样的选择并不是永久的,可以随时因为自己需求的改变而重新进行选择。如改变祈祷的教堂,更换雇主,等等。反映在饮食文化中最显著的就是西方人实行分餐制。
与之相对的,中国人崇尚集体主义价值观。在中国文化中,人们推崇谦虚知礼,不喜欢争强好胜,社会风气往往封杀过于突出的个人,正所谓“行高于众,人必非之”。在饮食文化中,这样的集体主义观念的确是受到了中国传统思想的影响,中国人的宴席多喜用圆桌,从形式上体现了团结、礼貌、共享的氛围。美味佳肴摆在桌子的中心,既是欣赏品尝的对象,又是交流感情的媒介。在这样的宴会气氛下,饮食已经不是宴会的主要目的,情感的交流才是宴会的中心。与西方人直截了当的交际方式不同,中国人的饮食目的依仗于一大群人的情感触碰、交流和共鸣。
(三)思维方式:个性与整体
西方人注重个性的发展,强调在集体中个性的最大限度发挥。他们追求差异性,凡事求异,认为每一个人都是独一无二的,强调天下万物都是独立的个体,彼此间没有联系,认为个性与个体的独立自主是人类社会发展的动力之一,因此对事物的看法与考虑往往从个性出发,西方人将独特的个性发展放置于一切行为活动的大前提之下。这无疑体现在了他们的饮食文化中,泾渭分明的摆盘和装点,虽同在一个盘子中,确是个性突出的各自为政,没有任何调和,肉即是肉,菜即是菜,土豆即是土豆,个性鲜明,味道明确,不会相互影响、相互混合。在烹饪上,同一个盘子中的不同食材也是被分开进行加工的,不会将它们放在一起烹煮,处处彰显西方人对于个体与个性的尊重和重视。 中国人注重整体的.发展,强调圆满、整合的思维方式和思想观念。不喜欢过于鲜明的个性张扬,反映在烹饪上更显见,无论是什么样的食材全部倒入锅中,再配以各种佐料进行烹调,即使原本个性鲜明,味道独特的食材在这样的磨合之下不会再显得如此锋芒。因此,中国菜尝起来滋味丰富,层次感强烈。再回过头看每一道菜,红不是那样鲜艳的红,绿也不是那样扎眼的绿,而是一种经过调和以后产生的和合之美。
(四)生活方式与生活节奏
在西方,流水线上的重复作业,实行计件工资制,生活节奏急促,人们有意无意地受到机械的两分法影响,将游戏与工作分得很清楚,即工作时工作,游戏时游戏,这样的生活方式十分单调、刻板,机械的工作生活模式逐步影响到了西方人对饮食的需求,导致饮食本身的单一性和简单性。
中国人则不然,中国人的随意性在这里体现无遗,不喜欢单纯的、机械的工作生活模式,推崇一种经验性的工作方式或者喜欢在工作中加入自己喜欢的元素或方法,就像中国的饮食烹饪一样,存在不稳定性,这样的不稳定性既指工作模式、工作方法的不稳定,又指工作结果的不稳定。就好像一道菜如果想要让它尝起来不那么咸,南方人可能会选择放糖冲淡咸味,如南方人的糖醋风味,就是用糖的甜与醋的酸中和酱油的咸味;而北方人则可能会把这道菜加水烹制食材,让食材变淡的同时改变了菜的性质,可能从一道炒菜变成了一道靓汤,因为生活经验、生活环境的不同而不同。这样并不稳定的经验性的改变方式,使原来单纯的一道菜变成了现在的三道菜而非两道菜,其中创造性与艺术性油然而生。
三、当前的餐饮文化发展与中西文化之间的融合
然而如今的中西方餐饮文化已不再像以前那样泾渭分明了,中餐中也融入了西式元素,西餐中处处彰显中国风,这是一种新型的饮食文化模式,中西合璧的饮食文化队伍将会越来越壮大,人们也可以通过了解饮食文化了解这个世界。
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你可以从以下几点着手: 一.餐桌礼仪概述 1. 餐桌礼仪在中西方文化发展中的地位与作用. 二. 各国间不同的饮食文化 1. 我国饮食文化的发展及餐桌礼仪的形成. 2. 英、法、美、意等国家的饮食文化发展及餐桌礼仪的形成. 3. 用我国的典型食品北京烤鸭与西方国家的火鸡进行对比从而进一步比较两者差异. 4. 从差异中寻求中西文化间的共同点. 5. 形成中西方文化差异的根源. Table Manners The main difference between Chinese and W estern eating habits is that unlike the West, where everyone has their own plate of food, in China the dishes are placed on the table and everybody shares. If you are being treated by a Chinese host, be prepared for a ton of food. Chinese are very proud of their culture of food and will do their best to give you a taste of many different types of cuisine. Among friends, they will just order enough for the people there. If they are taking somebody out for dinner and the relationship is polite to semi-polite, then they will usually order one more dish than the number of guests ( people, five dishes). If it is a business dinner or a very formal occasion, there is likely to be a huge amount of food that will be impopssible to finish. A typical meal starts with garlic. These are followed by the main courses, hot meat and vegetable dishes. Finally a soup is brought out, which is followed by the starchy "staple"food, which is usually rice or noodles or sometimes dumplings. Many Chinese eat rice (or noodles or whatever) last, but if you like to have your rice together with other dishes, you should say so early on. One thing to be aware of is that when eating with a Chinese host, you may find that the person is using their chopsticks to put food in your bowl or plate. This is a sign of politeness. The appropriate thing to do would be to eat the whatever-it-is and say how yummy it is. If you feel uncomfortable with this, you can just say a polite thank you and leave the food there, and maybe cover it up with a little rice when they are not looking. There is a certain amount of leniency involved when dealing with Westerners. So you won't be chastised. Eating No-no's Traditionally speaking, there are many taboos at Chinese tables, but these days not many people pay attention to them. However, there are a few things to keep in mind, especially if you are a guest at a private home. 1) Don't stick your chopsticks upright in the rice bowl. Instead,lay them on your dish. The reason for this is that when somebody dies, the shrine to them contains a bowl of sand or rice with two sticks of incense stuck upright in it. So if you stick your chopsticks in the rice bowl, it looks like this shrine and is equivalent to wishing death upon a person at the table! 2) Make sure the spout of the teapot is not facing anyone. It is impolite to set the teapot down where the spout is facing towards somebody. The spout should always be directed to where nobody is sitting,usually just outward from the table. 3) Don't tap on your bowl with your chopsticks. Beggars tap on their bowls, so this is not polite. Also, in a restaurant, if the food is coming too slow people will tap their bowls. If you are in someone's home, it is like insulting the cook. Eat Local You can get expensive, delicious meals in any of the large hotels, but if you are looking for atmosphere, you have to go to a local joint. Not only is it cheaper, but you can get a good look at the locals and what normal people are like. And what the food lacks in presentation is made up for in the taste. Some restaurants have English menus, but don't count on it. A good way to choose dishes is to look at what othes are eating and point at it for the waitress. The other option is to play "Myatery Dinner," where players randomly point at items in the menu and wait for the surprise dishes to come. Whoever orders the braised dog heart with scallions in shark vomit sauce wins! If you bring your Guide with you, however, you can use the food guide in the back of the book to choose some safe and delicious fare. Also, be sure to sample the local brew, Yanjing Beer. Drining Gan Bei!(cheers!) Alcohol is a big part of eating in Beijing. Especially when dining with Chinese hosts, you can expect the beer to flow freely and many beis to be gan-ed.(Gan Bei literally means "dry the glass")Besides beer, the official Chinese alcoholic beverage is bai jiu, high-proof Chinese liquor made from assorted grains. There are varying degrees of bai jiu, and some are quite good. The Beijing favorite is called Er Guo Tou, which is a whopping 56% alcohol. More expensive and less formidable are Maotai and Wuliangye, which go for about 300-400 yuan per bottle. In comparison, Er Guo Tou costs a modest 4or 5 yuan per ping(bottle). If you are not a drinker, or don't feel up to the challenge, just say "wo bu hui he jiu"(I don't drink). It is generally acceptable to use Coke or tea as an alcohol substitute.
only found one. hope that works~American table manners[edit] Table Layout * Bread plates are to the left of the main plate, beverage glasses are to the right. * Salad fork, knife and soup spoon are further from the main plate than the main course knife, fork and spoon. Dessert utensils are either placed above the main plate or served with dessert.[edit] General Behavior * Chew with your mouth closed. * Do not talk at an excessively loud volume. * Refrain from coughing, sneezing or blowing nose at the table. * Never tilt back your chair while at the table, or at any other time. * Do not make unbecoming noises while eating. * Do not play with food or table utensils. * Do not single out or chastise someone who has shown poor table manners. * Do not put your elbows on the table or slouch. * Always ask the host or hostess to be excused before leaving the table. * Do not stare at anyone while he or she is eating. * Never talk on your phone at the table. If urgent, ask host or hostess to be excused, and go outside. Apologize when returned.[edit] Utensils * Do not eat food with your fingers unless you are eating foods customarily eaten with fingers, such as bread, french fries, chicken wings, pizza, etc. * The fork may be used either in the American (use the fork in your left hand while cutting; switch to right hand to pick up and eat a piece) or the Continental (fork remains in the left hand) fashion -- either is now acceptable. (See Fork etiquette) * The fork is used to convey any solid food to the mouth. * The knife blade should be placed on the edge of your plate when not in use. The blade should always face inward. * When you have finished eating soup, the spoon should be placed to the side of the saucer, not left in the bowl. * Keep your napkin on your lap. At more formal occasions all diners will wait to place their napkins on their laps until the host or hostess places his or her napkin on his or her lap * When eating barbecue or some other messy foods such as cracked crab, a 'bib' napkin may be provided for and used by adults. Usually these foods are also eaten by hand, and wet wipes or paper napkins should be used to clean the hands. * When using paper napkins, never ball them up or allow stains to show. * Use your silverware from the outside moving inward toward the main plate. (Salad fork, knife and soup spoon are further from the main plate than the main course knife, fork and spoon. Dessert utensils are either placed above the main plate or served with dessert.)[edit] Dining * A prayer or 'blessing' may be customary in some families, and the guests should join in even if they are not religious or do not follow the same religion. Most prayers are made by the host before the meal is eaten. Instead or in addition, a 'toast' may be offered [1]. * Do not start eating until (a) every person is served or (b) those who have not been served request that you begin without waiting. At more formal occasions all diners will wait to begin until the hostess or host lifts a fork or spoon. * When a dish is presented 'family style', the food is served to one's plate and then passed on to the next person. put the food on your left, take some and pass to the person next to you. * When serving, serve from the left and pick up the dish from the right. Beverages are both served and removed from the right. * Eat soup noiselessly and with the side of the spoon. * Tea or coffee should never be poured into the saucer to cool but should be sipped from the cup. Alternatively, ice may be used to cool either. * Seasoning ones meal prior to tasting can be considered rude and may insult the chef.[edit] At the end of the meal * It is acceptable in most places to not finish all of the food on your plate. * When finished with your meal, place your knife and fork with handles at the 4 o'clock position and the tines of the fork down to signal to the server you are done. * Except in a public restaurant, do not ask to take some of your uneaten food away from the meal after it ends, especially when having a formal dinner.[edit] British table manners * The fork is held in your left hand and the knife is held in your right. * You should hold your knife with the handle in your palm and your fork in the other hand with the prongs pointing downwards. * If you’re eating a dessert, your fork (if you have one) should be held in the left hand and the spoon in the right. * When eating soup, you should hold your spoon in your right hand and tip the bowl away from you, scooping the soup in movements away from yourself. * It is not acceptable to use your fingers at the table to eat or push food onto your fork. You may, however, eat some foods such as fruit, sandwiches, hamburgers, crisps, chips or pizza with your fingers. * If there are a number of knives or forks, then you should start from the outside set working your way in as each course is served. * Drinks should always be to the right of your plate with the bread roll to the left. * When eating bread rolls, break off a piece before buttering. Use your knife only to butter the bread, not to cut it. * You should not start eating before your host does or instructs you to do so. At larger meals, it is considered okay to start eating once others have been served. * When you’re finished, place your knife and fork together at five o’clock with your fork on the left (tines facing up) and knife on the right, with the knife blade facing in. This signals that you are finished. * Your napkin should never be screwed up. Nor should it be folded neatly as that would suggest that your host might plan to use it again without washing it - just leave is neatly but loosely. * Never blow your nose on your napkin. Place it on your lap and use it to dab your mouth if you make a mess. * It is considered rude to answer the telephone at the table. If you need to take an urgent call, excuse yourself and go outside. * Always ask for permission from the host and excuse yourself if you need to leave the table. You should place your napkin on your seat until you return. * If you must leave the table or are resting, your fork should be at eight o’clock and your knife at four o’clock (with the blade inwards). Once an item of cutlery has been used, it should not touch the table again. * The food should be brought to your mouth on the fork; you should sit straight and not lean towards your plate. * Dishes should be served from the right, and taken away from the right. Unless the food is placed on your plate at the table, then it should arrive from the left. * Drinks should be served from the right. * Never lean across somebody else’s plate. If you need something to be passed, ask the person closest to it. If you have to pass something, only pass it if you are closest to it and pass it directly to them if you can. * Salt & pepper should be passed together. * Do not take food from a neighbour’s plate and don’t ask to do so. * You must not put your elbows on the table. * If pouring a drink for yourself, offer to pour a drink for your neighbours before serving yourself. * If extra food is on the table, ask others first if they would like it before taking it yourself. * When chewing food, close your mouth and only talk when you have swallowed it. * Swallow all food before eating more or having a drink. * Do not slurp your food or eat loudly. Burping or sneezing at the table should be avoided, too. * Never pick food out of your teeth with your fingernails. * Try to eat all the food you are served. * Glasses served in a wine glass or other stemmed-glass should be held at the stem. * Always remember “regular” manners. Remember to say "please" and "thank you".[edit] Chinese table mannersThese are mostly concerned with the use of chopsticks. Otherwise generally Chinese table manners are rather more informal, what would be considered rude in other cultures such as talking with the mouth full may be acceptable but better not to do so. * Chopsticks must always be held in the correct manner. It should be held between the thumb and fingers of the right hand, * Chopsticks are traditionally held in the right hand only, even by the left-handed. Although chopsticks may now be found in either hand, a few still consider left-handed chopstick use improper etiquette. One explanation for the treatment of such usage as improper is that this can symbolise argument, as the chopsticks may collide between the left-handed and right-handed user. * When communal chopsticks are supplied with shared plates of food, it is considered impolite to use your own chopsticks to pick up the food from the shared plate or eat using the communal chopsticks. An exception to this rule is made in intimate family dinners where family members may not mind the use of one's own chopsticks to transfer food. * It is considered impolite to use the blunt end of the chopsticks to transfer food from a common dish to your own plate or bowl. Use the communal chopsticks instead. * Never wave your chopsticks around as if they were an extension of your hand gestures, bang them like drumsticks, or use them to move bowls or plates. * Decide what to pick up before reaching with chopsticks. Do not hover around or poke looking for special ingredients. After you have picked up an item, do not put it back in the dish. * When picking up a piece of food, never use the tips of your chopsticks to poke through the food as if you were using a fork. Exceptions include tearing larger items apart such as vegetables. In informal use, small, difficult to pick-up items such as cherry tomatoes or fishballs may be stabbed but this use is frowned upon by traditionalists. * Chopsticks can be rested horizontally on one's plate or bowl to keep them off the table entirely. A chopstick rest can also be used to keep the points off the table. * Never stab chopsticks into a bowl of rice, leaving them standing upwards. Any stick-like object facing upward resembles the incense sticks that some Asians use as offerings to deceased family members. This is considered the ultimate faux pas on the dining table. * Chinese traditionally eat rice from a small bowl held in the left hand. The rice bowl is raised to the mouth and the rice pushed into the mouth using the chopsticks. Some Chinese find it offensive to scoop rice from the bowl using a spoon. If rice is served on a plate, as is more common in the West, it is acceptable and more practical to eat it with a fork or spoon. The thumb must always be above the edge of the bowl. * It is acceptable to transfer food to people who have a close relation with you (. parents, grandparents, children or significant others) if you notice they are having difficulty picking up the food. Also it is a sign of respect to pass food to the elderly first before the dinner starts (part of the Confucian tradition of respecting seniors). * Traditionally, it is polite for the youngest members of the table to address each and everyone of the elderly members of the table before a meal starts and literally tell them to "eat rice", which means "go ahead and start the meal", to show respect. * The host should always make sure the guests drinks are sufficiently full. One should not pour for ones self, but should (if thirsty) offer to pour for a neighbor. When your drink is being poured, you should say "thank you" and/or tap your fingers on the table to show appreciation. * When people wish to clink drinks together in the form of a cheer, it is important to observe that younger members should clink the edge of their drink below the edge of an elder to show respect. * When eating food that contains bones, it is customary that the bones be spit out onto the table to the right of the dining plate in a neat pile.
总的来说就是中西文化差异当今世界跨文化交际已成为人们生活中不可或缺的内容,是现代交际中引人注目的一个焦点。但在交流中,经常会出现一些不尽人意的地方,其原因正是文化差异,其中最为突出的是中西方文化差异。中西文化历来是世界文化的两大派系,而饮食在两个文化中占有非常重要的地位。中西文化之间的差异从而造就了中西饮食文化的差异,在两种不同的文化背景下,中西方饮食习俗,不论在其特征、功能,还是在其性质、对象等诸多方面,所存在的差异都是非常鲜明的。饮食文化不仅仅是“吃”的问题,是人类在饮食方面的创造行为及其成果,凡涉及人类饮食方面的思想、意识、观念、哲学、艺术等都在饮食文化的范围之内。中西方文化有着相通之处,比如:西方人重视培养奋发向上的精神,中国人则主张积极进取;西方人主张教育为先,中国人倡导发展教育;西方人奉行实用主义,中国人讲究实事求是。但是,中西方文化在很大程度上也存在着不同,在美国,个人自由主义形象在社会生活中表现得非常鲜明,而在中国,家庭责任感会体现出这样的强烈与鲜明。有人说,文化就像一个磁场,在不同的地域有着不同的分布,而同处一个磁场的中西两方的文化,在交流的过程中必然会碰撞出火花。本文主要就中西方在饮食方面的差异为代表来分析中西方文化的差异,从理论和实践两个方面深化跨文化交际研究,以更好的汲取西方文化的精华、弘扬中华文化。一、“分离”与“合同”的特征不同。台湾国学大师钱穆先生曾今说:“文化异, 斯学术亦异。中国重和合, 西方重分别”[1]。中西文化的差异影响了各自的饮食文化。在中西饮食文化之中也明显体现了这种“合同”与“分离”的文化特征。(一)追求自由开放的西方人倾向分门别类。西式菜肴中除少数汤菜, 如法式洋葱大虾汤,是把多种荤素原料混合在一锅里熬炖而成之外, 正菜中各种原料互不相干,鱼就是鱼,虾就是虾,羊排就是羊排。就有搭配,那也是在盘中进行的,不是搅拌在一起的。如 “美式牛扒”, 一边放着牛扒,另一边是意大利青瓜、干笋,切碎加入植物牛油中拌匀,直至凝固,切成小块,放上已煎好的美国牛扒面,即可供食。色彩上形成对比鲜明,但在口味上各种原料互不相混,各是各的味。即使是调味的佐料,如植物牛油、盐,也都是现吃现加,而不是一次性放够。即使有所搭配,也是简单明了。以上种种做法都体现了“西方重分别”的饮食文化。(二) 崇尚和谐的中国人强调统一。中国人的儒家传统思想,主张以“和”为贵,认为其为最美妙的境界,不但体现在社会为人处世中,而且反映在其他各各方面,当然也包括烹饪思想。这种“合同”的思想集中体现在烹饪上就反映为“五味调和”。要用中国传统文化中的阴阳五行指导这一调和,调和既要合乎时序,又要注意时令,才能达到“美味可口”的目的。既烹制食物时需要在保留原味的基础上进行调和,所以中国菜几乎每个菜都要用两种以上的原料和多种调料来烹制。即使是家常菜也如此,一般主要原料选用荤素搭配来调和烹制的,再加上各种调料,如青椒肉丝、宫保鸡丁、乌鸡红枣汤。中国人认为把多种原料放在一起,配料和辅料的味以及调料的味交织融合协调在一起,就如多种化学试剂发生反应,经这种过程搭配出来的菜才美味可口,这也是一种集中个体到整体的过程,只不过还有一个把握火候的问题,也就是哲学上说的“度”,不同的火候就会烹饪出不同的味儿,中国饮食之所以有其独特的魅力, 关键就在于它的味。而美味的产生,在于调和,使之互相通、互助渗透[2]。可见中国人烹调追求整体、统一。二、饮食功能的不同。中国人认为饮食既是一种享受,也是一种情感沟通的重要媒介,又是一项工作,许多工作都是在餐桌旁进行并完成的,这是中方饮食功能突出特色。中国人往往在节日时邀请客人吃饭,美味佳肴放在一桌人的中心,共享一席,除了寒暄客套便是大讲吃经,款款叙来,滔滔不绝,人们相互敬酒、劝菜。伤心时找人吃饭,倾诉自己的惆怅、委屈,抒发自己的郁闷之感,通过别人的开导,寻找心理安慰,以达释放解脱之目的。谈业务时约人吃饭,既可以寻求到更多的机会,又可以了解对方,在轻松地环境中达成协议。表感谢时也请人吃饭,中国人认为享受美味佳肴最能代表真心诚意,饭局俨然成为了中国式生活的缩影。西方人则认为饮食是一种休息,是一种放松,饮食与工作相对分开,工作主要是在办公桌旁进行并完成的。于是,西方人在吃饭时通常不谈工作,或安安静静地独自享用盘中美食,或轻轻松松地听着音乐并吃着食物,或平心静气地谈一些让人放松而愉快的话题,这也仅限于邻座的宾客,而不像中国进行全席的交流,没有中国人进餐时的热闹,缺少了一些中国人聊欢共乐的情调。如果将宴会的交谊性比作舞蹈,可以说,中式宴席好比是集体舞,而西式宴会好比是男女的交谊舞。当然也不会因为工作业务或心情失落、表达谢意之类的而请人吃饭。由此可见,中西方的饮食功能是不同的。三、饮食对象的不同。一个民族的饮食习惯与其生存环境和传统密切相关。自古以来,任何一个时期、任何一个区域,人们的饮食生活都离不开特定的生存环境。生存环境不仅决定了可能获得的食物来源和种类,而且对于食物的获得方式与消费方式等也产生重要影响,“生存环境及其内部诸因素的变化,最终也将导致饮食文化体系的种种变化”[3]。由于中国自古就是农业大国,又加之人口压力以及其他多种原因的存在,使中国的饮食文化主要起源于农耕文化,这就直接影响着人们的食物结构。从“食”的内容来看,中国人有明确的主食和副食之分,主食以谷类及其制品如面食为主,副食则以蔬菜为主,辅以肉类[4]。中国人的饮食从先秦开始,就是以五谷杂粮为主,肉少粮多,辅以蔬菜植物类菜品占主导地位。据西方的植物学者的调查,中国人吃的蔬菜有600多种,比西方多六倍。在中国人的菜肴里,素菜是平常食品,荤菜只有在节假日或生活水平较高时才进入平常的饮食结构, 所以自古便有“菜食”之说。中国人以淀粉为能量的主要来源,荤素搭配比较均衡,喜食果蔬,讲究杂食。对于蔬菜的烹调以熟食为主,不喜欢生吃蔬菜或生饮果汁。这一饮食习惯又深受佛教文化的影响,佛教倡导吃斋饭,即素食,认为动物是“生灵”,而生灵是不可以杀死的,更不能食用,另外道教亦倡导忌食鱼肉。中国人一般还喜欢热食,主菜大多是热的,他们认为菜凉了,就失去了菜原有的味道,对肠胃也不好,只有趁热吃才能吃出菜的鲜味,吃到菜原有的特色。虽然随着人们生活水平的提高,加大了肉类菜肴和奶类食品的比重,肉食已成为寻常百姓餐桌上不可或缺的佳肴,但以蔬菜为主导的意识却仍然植根于人们的观念中。在西方,其农业结构是一种农牧混合结构,由于其地理气候不太适合农耕却有利于牧草生长,使得畜牧业占据了农业经济的主导地位。独特的临海区位优势使得他们的航海业也非常发达。西方饮食文化就起源于这种畜牧文化,畜牧文化决定了西方饮食结构尤其偏重于肉类与乳制品,其膳食结构以动物性食物为主。没有主食和副食之分,以高蛋白、高脂肪、高糖分为典型特征,主要以牛肉、羊肉、猪肉等为主要菜肴。吃、穿、用都取之于动物,连西药都从动物身上取料炼制。西方人喜爱冷食、凉菜,从冷菜拼盘、色拉到冷饮,餐桌上少不了冷菜,而且西方人多生吃蔬菜。肉食在饮食中的比例一直很高,故他们国家的人身体普遍比中国人健壮:高个、长腿、肩部宽大、肌肉发达, 而中国人则显得身材瘦小、体质较弱。但西方人也认识到这种饮食习惯对身体健康的危害,开始转向以植物蔬菜为主的清淡型饮食,西方人的餐桌上蔬菜的种类及份量逐渐明显增加且也趋向于熟吃。但是肉食在饮食中的比例仍然要比中国人的高。总体来看,中西方的饮食结构日趋合理化、营养化。孙中山先生曾说:“中国常人所饮者为清茶,所食者为淡饭,而加以蔬菜、豆腐。此等之食料,为今日卫生家所考得为最有益于养生者也。故中国穷乡僻壤之人,饮食不及酒肉者,多为上寿”[5]。他还认为“欧美人之所饮者独酒, 所食者腥腹,亦相习成风,故虽在前有科学之提倡,在后有重法之厉禁”[6]。孙中山先生讲了中西饮食的利弊,根据中西方饮食对象的差异,有人把中国人称为植物性格,把西方人称为动物性格。这种性格反映在文化行为价值观上就是,中国人喜欢安土重迁,固本守己,而西方人则喜欢开拓、冒险、冲突。美国民俗学家露丝·本尼迪克特曾经提出过“文化模式”这一理论,她认为中国人的文化性格类似于古典世界的阿波罗式,而西方人的文化性格则近似于现代世界的浮士德式。四、中西饮食归属及性质的不同。中西方饮食性质的差异,与它们各自的生活方式及生活节奏是相一致的。在西方,一般实行工资制,重复的工作比较多,且生活节奏较快,人们有意无意地受工作节奏的影响,通常工作时工作,游戏时游戏。生活的单一乏味导致了饮食结构的单一性并对此熟视无睹,西方人平常享用的罐头快餐等,口味千篇一律,与从事的工作一样单调重复,他们对此很漠然,就像对一个生物的机器注入燃料,只要他们吃了以后能保持身体的结实,足以抵御病菌的感染,其他皆不足道[7]。能保证机器的正常运转就可以了。以完成任务为目的,自然无兴趣、滋味可言。中国则不然,工作节奏相对比较慢,工作形式多样,往往追求两全齐美,边工作边游戏。当然饮食结构也相对复杂,对于色、香、味、形、质、意等都相当讲究,并且种类之多,无所不有。中国人饮食的目的,不同于西方人,除了果腹充饥,同时还满足对美味的渴望,给人赏心悦目之感,才会有食欲。厨师在炒菜时一般上下晃动炒勺,注意烹炒的节奏感。这些自然不会提高工作效率,但却增加了劳动者的工作趣味,只有在这种气氛中工作才会使身心愉悦,才能体现出中国菜的创造性和艺术性。五、规范科学与随意特色的烹调准则不同。西方人在摄取食物时基本上是从科学的角度出发的,十分注意营养搭配,不论食物的色泽鲜嫩怎样,营养是一到菜谱成功与否的标准,在营养的标准上讲究蛋白质、脂肪、碳水化合物、维生素及各类无机元素的含量是否搭配合宜,热量的供给是否恰到好处以及这些营养成分是否能为进食者充分吸收,有无其他副作用。对他们而言,饮食只是一种手段,所以态度也就较为随便,吃得也较为简单。在西方, 盛大的西餐宴席通常不过是六道菜,而且其中只有两道菜算得上是菜,其余不过是陪衬。平时宴请,饭菜更为简单。还有一种聚会,称之为“Party”,主人只提供饮料、酒和一些简单的食物,如奶酪、炸薯条、三明治等, 并不提供饭菜。可见, 他们将吃饭看成是聚会和交流的机会,吃的东西并不是最重要的,享受在饮食中基本上不占重要位置,故而不会像中国过分地追求特色口味。早餐往往是一个鸡蛋、一杯牛奶、几片面包再加上一根香肠,热量非常充足。午餐往往是自助快餐,即使是最讲究的晚餐也不外乎是面包、薯条、香肠、牛排、炸鸡、奶酪等, 也很简单,但营养十分丰富。西方人相关的烹调全过程也都严格按照科学规范行事。从菜谱的制定就可以发现,西方菜谱中的计量都以精确数字计算。从表面上看,菜谱似乎是科学的,西方人买菜和制作菜肴也总是对照着菜谱。但相比中国烹调,它是一个非常机械的东西,在复杂的具体情况面前往往是无能为力的,比如为了体现客人身份,在做菜时要打破常规,在味道花色上稍作调整,使之精致一些。这对于中国的厨师轻而易举,而对于西方厨师就会不知所措。而这种一致性导致了西方饮食的一个弊端--缺乏特色。另外, 规范化的烹调要求配料的准备、调料的添加精确到克,烹调时间精确到秒。由于西方菜肴制作的规范化,使得烹调成为一种机械性的工作,从洛杉矶到纽约,牛排都只有一种味道,毫无创造性和艺术可言。而且在西方,一道菜在不同的季节不同的地区,都是同一种味道,几乎没有变化。即使是高档的宴席,也不过是更讲究餐具,布置更华贵,服务更为周到而已,菜仍旧是一个味。西方人这种重科学、重营养的理性饮食观念同西方整个哲学体系也是相适应的,形而上学是西方哲学的主要特点。西方哲学所研究的对象为事物之理,事物之理常为形上学理,形上学理互相连贯,便结成形上哲学。这一哲学给西方文化带来生机,使之在自然科学上、心理学上、方法论上实现了突飞猛进的发展。但在另一些方面,这种哲学主张大大地起了阻碍作用,如饮食文化,就不可避免地落后了,到处打上了方法论中的形而上学痕迹。
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