一、两种不同的饮食观念
餐饮产品由于地域特征、气侯环境、风俗习惯等因素的影响,会出现在原料、口味、烹调方法、饮食习惯上的不同程度的差异。正是因为这些差异,餐饮产品具有了强烈的地域性。中西文化之间的差异造就了中西饮食文化的差异,而这种差异来自中西方不同的思维方式和处世哲学。中国人注重“天人合一”,西方人注重“以人为本”。
对比注重“味”的中国饮食,西方是一种理性饮食观念。不论食物的色、香、味、形如何,而营养一定要得到保证,讲究一天要摄取多少热量、维生素、蛋白质等等。即便口味千篇一律,也一定要吃下去--因为有营养。这一饮食观念同西方整个哲学体系是相适应的。形而上学是西方哲学的主要特点。西方哲学所研究的对象为事物之理,事物之理常为形上学理,形上学理互相连贯,便结成形上哲学。这一哲学给西方文化带来生机,使之在自然科学上、心理学上、方法论上实现了突飞猛进的发展。但在另一些方面,这种哲学主张大大地起了阻碍作用,如饮食文化。在宴席上,可以讲究餐具,讲究用料,讲究服务,讲究菜之原料的形、色方面的搭配;但不管怎么豪华高档,从洛杉矶到纽约,牛排都只有一种味道,无艺术可言。作为菜肴,鸡就是鸡,牛排就是牛排,纵然有搭配,那也是在盘中进行的,一盘“法式羊排”,一边放土豆泥,旁倚羊排,另一边配煮青豆,加几片番茄便成。色彩上对比鲜明,但在滋味上各种原料互不相干、调和,各是各的味,简单明了。
中国人是很重视“吃”的,“民以食为天”这句谚语就说明我们把吃看得与天一样重要。由于我们这个民族几千年来都处于低下的生产力水平,人们总是吃不饱,所以才会有一种独特的把吃看得重于一切的饮食文化,我想,这大概是出于一种生存需要吧。如果一种文化把吃看成首要的事,那么就会出现两种现象:一方面会把这种吃的功能发挥到极致,不仅维持生存,也利用它维持健康,这也就是”药补不如食补”的文化基础;另一方面,对吃的过份重视,会使人推崇对美味的追求。
二、饮食方式的不同
中西方的饮食方式有很大不同,这种差异对民族性格也有影响。在中国,任何一个宴席,不管是什么目的,都只会有一种形式,就是大家团团围坐,共享一席。筵席要用圆桌,这就从形式上造成了一种团结、礼貌、共趣的气氛。美味佳肴放在一桌人的中心,它既是一桌人欣赏、品尝的对象,又是一桌人感情交流的媒介物。人们相互敬酒、相互让菜、劝菜,在美好的事物面前,体现了人们之间相互尊重、礼让的美德。虽然从卫生的角度看,这种饮食方式有明显的不足之处,但它符合我们民族“大团圆”的普遍心态,反映了中国古典哲学中“和”这个范畴对后代思想的影响,便于集体的情感交流,因而至今难以改革。
西式饮宴上,食品和酒尽管非常重要,但实际上那是作为陪衬。宴会的核心在于交谊,通过与邻座客人之间的交谈,达到交谊的目的。如果将宴会的交谊性与舞蹈相类比,那么可以说,中式宴席好比是集体舞,而西式宴会好比是男女的交谊舞。
由此可见,中式宴会和西式宴会交谊的目的都很明显,只不过中式宴会更多地体现在全席的交谊,而西式宴会多体现于相邻宾客之间的交谊。与中国饮食方式的差异更为明显的是西方流行的自助餐。此法是:将所有食物一一陈列出来,大家各取所需,不必固定在位子上吃,走动自由,这种方式便于个人之间的情感交流,不必将所有的话摆在桌面上,也表现了西方人对个性、对自我的尊重。但各吃各的,互不相扰,缺少了一些中国人聊欢共乐的情调。
Diet idea the Europeans said that in the world has three big good food, in each edition has China and France, only then actually had different explanations about third, has said that was Italy, also had said that was countries' and so on Turkey, Tunisia or Morocco. Although reaches a stalemate, but everybody has a mutual recognition, the diet often can reflect the different nationality aspect and so on habits and customs and cultural thought differences. one time hosts the banquet in the Chinese restaurant, on the hotel vegetable very slowly, unconscious has passed for nearly two hours, but the vegetable has as if only then gotten up half. Is first time attends the Chinese meal banquet near a place woman, cannot bear asks me, your Chinese treats on these many vegetables? I said that must be many in China, usually is above 10. She is very surprised, including said that China's banquet too has been really rich, China's good food is very no wonder famous. But after a while, she also asks me, has a phenomenon to be very strange: The Chinese eats meal each time on that many vegetables, can be why long so thinly. But France enters the vegetable to be very each time few, but is why fatter than the Chinese? I am at a loss for words for a while, but thought that she asks how many truth a little, because that day shares a table several Chinese appear quite emaciated, but several French are all tall and sturdy. Thinks that spoke an own idea with her: China is a hospitable nationality, only then on a table vegetable had only then thought that has not neglected the visitor. Sometimes moreover the Chinese pays great attention the form, therefore in China's cooking, the vegetable style is ever changing, makes concrete is fastidious about the color fragrance to each vegetable matching. But European as if some, are inferior to China obviously actually in the vegetable variety change high and low free time, what but is fastidious is its nutrition matching and the protection. This is, the French diet idea important difference, how many also reflected the French chemical property standard difference. each people have the color which to color understanding oneself like, a country and the nationality are also same, likes to the different color being possible to reflect a national or the national esthetic appeal and the likes and dislikes tendency overall. has one time bumps into an EU commission's pair of professor husbands and wives, mentions China national dress which in the Shanghai APEC conference various countries' leader puts on, they said are attractive, but has a point to be not too clear, why do the Asian leaders mostly put on red, but the Western leader has chosen the blue color. I said that the color is leader designates. The Asian country has the same cultural context probably, red in the Chinese culture, is also possibly representing lucky, the wealth in the entire Asian culture and propitious pleasant, therefore the Asian leaders as if by prior agreement have chosen red. I ask in reply them, what does the blue color represent in the Western culture? They said the westerner to believe that the blue color represents is calm and is calm. thinks that I also said the East and West cultural difference was really too big, for example the dragon in China was nationality's symbol, but had one in Belgium's Mongolian Si Shize to hit the dragon festival, the dragon is regarded as the devil, has been massacred by fable in protection sacred · Michelle, therefore did specially hits the dragon festival to congratulate that eliminated the disaster shortcoming to thank Michelle. Professor husbands and wives also approves the East and West cultural difference hugeness, and approves the culture to need to exchange. in thinking mode West's cultural difference also displays in many aspects, but simple summarizes is not actually complex: Reflected that to the thinking mode in is abstract and the embodiment difference, reflected that to the life manner in as if may understand is more practical for the westerner, but Chinese how many stresses some mental feeling. For instance compares French word and Chinese writing, this point is very obvious. The Chinese writing makes the word to pay great attention the image much, what but in the French more pays great attention to consider is the use value. Looks like in Chinese the name card, in the French translates literally is the card which the visit uses, but the aircraft carrier calls in the French to carry airplane's warship and so on, is embarks from the actual uses makes the word. But presses the glass plate which likely the picture uses, we are also the words which makes from its use value angle, but the French has been more direct-viewing, the literal translation is “places above the picture”. reflects to the drawing in is so. Everybody knew that the traditional Chinese painting greatly opens big he, splashes ink enjoyably the human body proportion which and optics principle is fastidious with the European oil painting and so on completely belongs to the technical category which two have nothing to do with one another, is as if very difficult to have the common language. Sometimes the European not too can understand that sometimes we too abstract art expression means that we also will think European's artistic skill too practical duty, deficient divine and wonderful spirit. Looked that sometimes in many European drawing history has been presented for the classics religious theme painting, the Chinese while sighs its technique practical exquisite, also will sigh with emotion European master the imagination the deficiency: In order to explain that the angel is flying, must give these lovable young and clevers to add on a pair of wing. But our ancestor has not also drawn several thousand years, how many white clouds adds on nearby these beautiful female celestial, they have not flown? Has the ideal condition, has the imagination space. this is the cultural difference. But, the difference brings not always the difference, it gave culture masters of art to leave behind the broad creation space exactly, if could find an accurate combining site, not only that will give two nationalities, will also give the entire world to bring one kind to have forgives the significance the harmony and beautiful, for instance Zhao Wuji's painting manifested the inexhaustible charm which the culture blended
饮食观念
欧洲人都说世界上有三大美食,每一个版本里都有中国和法国的,只有关于第三家却说法不一,有说是意大利的,也有说是土耳其、突尼斯或摩洛哥等国的。尽管相持不下,但大家都有个共识,饮食常能反映出不同民族的生活习惯和文化思维等方面的差异。
一次在中餐馆举行宴会,饭店菜上得很慢,不知不觉中过去了近两个小时,但菜似乎才上了一半。临座的一位女士是第一次参加中餐宴会,忍不住问我,你们中国人请客都上这么多菜吗?我说,在中国还要多,通常是10道以上。她很惊讶,连说中国的宴会实在太丰富了,难怪中国的美食很有名。但过了一会儿,她又问我,有个现象很奇怪:中国人吃饭每次都上那么多菜,可为什么都长得那么瘦。而法国入每次菜很少,但为什么都比中国人胖呢?
我一时语塞,但又觉得她问得多少有点道理,因为那天同桌的几个中国人都显得比较瘦弱,而几个法国人个个人高马大。想了想,和她讲了自己的一点想法:中国是个好客的民族,只有上了一桌子菜才觉得没怠慢客人。另外中国人有时候更注重形式,所以在中国的烹调里,菜的样式千变万化,具体到每一道菜又非常讲究色香味的搭配。而欧洲人似乎更实际一些,在菜的花色变化上下的工夫显然不如中国,但讲究的是其营养的搭配和保护。这是中、法饮食观念的重要差异,多少也反映出了中法文化性格的不同。
对色彩的认识
每个人都有自己喜欢的颜色,一个国家和民族也一样,对不同颜色的喜好从整体上可以反映出一个民族或者国家的审美情趣与好恶倾向。
有一次碰到欧盟委员会的一对教授夫妇,谈起上海APEC会议上各国领导人穿的中国民族服装,他们都说非常好看,但有一点不太明白,为什么亚洲领导人大多穿红色,而西方领导人则多选择了蓝色。我说颜色都是领导人自己选定的。大概亚洲国家有着相同的文化背景,红色在中国文化里,也可能在整个亚洲文化中都代表着幸运、财富和吉祥如意,所以亚洲领导人都不约而同地选择了红色。我反问他们,蓝色在西方文化里代表什么?他们说西方人认为,蓝色代表冷静和沉着。
想了想,我又补充说东西方文化差异实在是太大了,比如说龙在中国是民族的象征,而在比利时的蒙斯市则有一个打龙节,龙被视作恶魔,被传说中的保护神圣·米歇尔杀掉了,因此特意搞打龙节来庆贺除灾弊感谢米歇尔。教授夫妇也非常认同东西方文化差异的巨大,并认可文化需要交流。
思维方式
中西方的文化差异还表现在诸多方面,但简单加以概括其实并不复杂:反映到思维方式上是抽象和具象的差别,反映到生活态度上则似乎可以理解为西方人更加实用,而中国人则多少更偏重一些精神感受。比如把法语单词和中文文字加以比较,这一点就很明显。中国文字造词多注重形象,而法文里更多地注重考虑的是实用价值。像中文里的名片,法文里直译就是访问用的卡片,而航空母舰在法文里叫载飞机的军舰等等,都是从实际用途出发来造词的。而像压照片用的玻璃板,我们也是从其使用价值角度来造的词,但法国人就更加直观了,直译就是“放在照片上面的”。
反映到绘画上更是如此。大家都知道中国画的大开大阖、泼墨写意和欧洲油画讲究的人体比例和光学原理等完全是属于两个风马牛不相及的技术范畴,似乎很难有共同语言。欧洲人有时不太能够理解我们过于抽象的艺术表现手法,我们有时也会认为欧洲人的艺术技巧过于写实本分,缺乏灵气。看多了欧洲绘画史上被奉为经典的宗教题材画作,中国人有时在感叹其技法写实细腻的同时,也会感慨欧洲大师们想象力的贫乏:为了说明天使在飞,就非得给那些可爱的小精灵们加上一双翅膀。而我们的祖先不也画了几千年了吗,在那些美丽的仙女旁边加上几朵白云,她们不就飞起来了吗?多有意境,多有想象空间啊。
这就是文化的差异。但是,差异带来的并不总是分歧,它恰恰给文化艺术大师们留下了广阔的创作空间,如能从中找到一个准确的结合点,那不仅会给两个民族,而且也会给整个世界带来一种更具包涵意义的和谐与美丽,比如赵无极的画作就体现出了文化交融的无尽魅力。
中西方饮食文化比较
1.饮食观念及味道和营养
由于中西哲学思想的不同,西方人于饮食重科学,重科学即讲求营养,故西方饮食以营养为最高准则,进食有如为一生物的机器添加燃料,特别讲求食物的营养成分,蛋白质、脂肪、碳水化合物、维生素及各类无机元素的含量是否搭配合宜,卡路里的供给是否恰到好处,以及这些营养成分是否能为进食者充分吸收,有无其他副作用。这些问题都是烹调中的大学问,而菜肴的色、香、味如何,则是次一等的要求。即或在西方首屈一指的饮食大国——法国,其饮食文化虽然在很多方面与我们近似,但一接触到营养问题,双方便拉开了距离。
中国五味调和的烹调术旨在追求美味,其加工过程中的热油炸和长时间的文火攻,都会使菜肴的营养成分被破坏。法国烹调虽亦追求美味,但同时总不忘“营养”这一大前提,一味舍营养而求美味是他们所不取的。尤其是20世纪60年代出现的现代烹调思潮,特别强调养生、减肥,从而追求清淡少油,强调采用新鲜原料,强调在烹调过程中保持原有的营养成分和原有的味道,所以蔬菜基本上都是生吃。所以说西方饮食之重营养是带有普遍性的。
平心而论,谈到营养问题也触及到中国饮食的最大弱点。尽管我们讲究食疗、食补、食养,重视以饮食来养生强身,但我们的烹调术却以追求美味为第一性要求,致使许多营养成分损失于加工过程中。近年来我国厨师参加世界烹调大赛,人家端上一个菜营养成分开列得一清二楚,我们则拿不出这份材料。经人提问,亦瞠目结舌不知所云,大大地吃了哑巴亏!
我们从来都是把追求美味奉为进食的首要目的。民间有句俗话:“民以食为天,食以味为先”。虽然人们在赞誉美食时,总爱说“色香味俱佳”,但那是由于我们感受色香味的感觉器官“眼、鼻、口”的上下排列顺序如此。人们内心之于“色、香、味”,从来都是“味”字“挂帅”的。 而西方烹调讲究营养而忽视味道,至少是不以味觉享受为首要目的。他们以冷饮佐餐,冰镇的冷酒还要再加冰块,而舌表面遍布的味觉神经一经冰镇,便大大丧失品味的灵敏度,渐至不能辨味;那带血的牛排与大白鱼、大白肉,生吃的蔬菜,白水煮豆子、煮土豆,虽有“味”而不入“道”,凡此种种都反映了西方人对味觉的忽视。他们拒绝使用味精,更足以证明此辈皆属不知味之人,非“知味观”之座上客也!
2、基于对营养的重视,西方人多生吃蔬菜,不仅西红柿、黄瓜、生菜生吃,就是洋白菜、洋葱、绿菜花(西兰花)也都生吃。因而他们的“沙拉”有如一盘兔饲料,使我们难以接受。现代中国人也讲营养保健,也知道青菜一经加热,维生素将被破坏,因而我们主张用旺火爆炒。这虽然也使维生素的含量下降,但不会完全损失,可味道却比兔饲料好吃得多。因而中国的现代烹调术旨在追求营养与味道兼顾下的最佳平衡,这当然也属于一种“中庸之道”。
而西方烹调讲究营养而忽视味道,至少是不以味觉享受为首要目的。他们以冷饮佐餐,冰镇的冷酒还要再加冰块,而舌表面遍布的味觉神经一经冰镇,便大大丧失品味的灵敏度,渐至不能辨味;那带血的牛排与大白鱼、大白肉,生吃的蔬菜,白水煮豆子、煮土豆,虽有“味”而不入“道”,凡此种种都反映了西方人对味觉的忽视。他们拒绝使用味精,更足以证明此辈皆属不知味之人,非“知味观”之座上客也!
3. 用餐方式及餐具
在用餐方式上。在中国,无论什么宴席,都是大家团团围坐,共享一席,美味佳肴放在桌子中间,它既是一桌人享用的对象,又是大家交流感情的媒介。在餐桌上,中国人都喜欢互相劝酒,夹菜,举杯共欢,非常和睦生趣。而西方就不同了,当他们聚在一起吃饭或请客时,劝酒,夹菜并没有中国人那么热情,并且客人与主人之间也没有那么客气。西方人更注重个人的独立性,各吃各的,没有中国人聊欢共乐的情趣。中餐上桌的菜讲究丰盛多样,一般是8或10碟、12碟,品种多样,从主菜到汤,到甜品,到水果,次序也讲究。而西方人宴客则是以牛、羊、猪排等为主食。在餐具方面,差异就更甚明显。众所周知,中国人包括亚洲一些黄种人的国家,使用的是筷子,汤匙,吃饭也用碗盛;而西方人呢,则是盘子盛食物,用刀叉即切即吃,喝汤则有专门的汤匙。筷子与刀叉作为东西方最具代表性的两种餐具,筷子和刀叉影响了东西方不同的生活方式,代表着不同的两种智慧
4. 用餐礼仪:
在礼仪方面,中西两者更显不同。在中国现代,在用餐过程中,不可以只顾自己吃饭。如果和别人一起吃饭,必须检查手的清洁。不要把多余的饭放回锅里,不要专占着食物,也不要簸扬着热饭。吃完饭后,客人应该起身向前收拾桌上的盘碟,交给主人,主人跟着起身,请客人不要劳动,然后客人再坐下。在西方宴席上,主人一般只给客人夹一次菜,其余由客人自主食用,若客人不要,也不便硬让人家再吃,也不要频频给客人劝酒,夹菜。吃东西时,也不要发出响声,但客人要注意赞赏主人准备的饭菜。若与人谈话,只能与邻座的交谈,不要与距离远的交谈。